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HandyAntman

Finding my way
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Everything posted by HandyAntman

  1. I've come across this with other manufacturers where the voltage partially dies away when the battery is removed but only enough to corrupt the uProc/memory in the key - especally if the battery is swapped too quickly. Then the new battery appears not to work. I assume you don't have the same problem I did (unlikely with both keys) so try removing the battery and holding down one of the buttons for 15 secs. This will discharge any residual voltage in the key to allow a 'cold boot' when the new battery is inserted. If the red LED in the keyfob does not flash when a button is pressed then there is definitiely a problem in the key - regardless of whether it is coded to the car or not.
  2. Hi No not KESSY - too much of a security risk for my liking. Just standard 3-button button remote and old fahioned ignition key
  3. I had an intermittent low Keyfob battery issue. Initially tried three brands of 2025 cell but could only get it to work with a 2032. I put put this down to cell impedance variations between manufacturers. This lasted about 3 months and then after changing again still gave occasional errors. That was until I had to invoke emergency access procedure in Sainsburys car park one day when the key became dead with no red led. Changed battery again and key still dead. So I assumed that the key itself was dying and potentially expensive (key plus reprogramming etc). In for a penny, I dismantled as much of the key as possible (not quite sure how to access the pcb entirely which is what I really wanted to do). Then gave all access holes in the key a gentle blow with the airline as there was evidence of dust having got into the key past the seals. After this the key has worked faultlessly for the last 6 months with the same battery that was supposedly dead. The conculsion I draw is that some dust must have been somehow shorting out the RF or uproc and causing the malfunction. This caused a higher current drain from the battery - meaning only a lower impedance cell (higher current capability) could drive the circuit until it was prevented from operating completely. So for repeated early low battery failures - try internal cleaning of the pcb. (OBD11 incidentally only showed the' intermittent key battery' error logged which I reset and has remained clear since.)

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