Billc104

I'm probably too late to tell you, but I think overnight is too long unless you have a clever charger that will stop itself. I've read you should stop charging when you reach 14.1 to 14.4 volts to avoid gassing which is a problem with sealed batteries because you can't replace the water. It depends on your charger of course but I suspect that whilst 15 mins was too short, overnight is far too long. Also, I would suggest no need to drive hard to charge battery, just long enough.

That's just too obvious! Thanks for your help Sepulchrave it's appreciated. Out of curiosity I found out if the German word for version starts with v - it does, when talking about software it's version.

I'm trying to select a used ABS ecu. The paper label on my unit includes " BPA V30" . I've noticed on vcds printouts on here for abs include "front v20" or "front v30". I'm thinking if it gets printed out there it must be of significance. Please can anyone tell me anything about this?

Thanks for your input guys. My electronics have to move sideways rather than down. I'm thinking I might get the nuts behind the unit undone and not be able to get them back on, or maybe there isn't enough room to move the unit over for the solenoids to clear the pump body. I'd like to get an idea of how long the job is going to take before I start - wouldn't be such an issue in the summer! I took a photo today but when I attached the file the picture appeared only 1cm square and I couldn't enlarge it.

I think the electronics bit of my abs module is dead (I have checked the fuses). Can anyone tell me please if it is possible to remove the electronics bit without disconnecting the hydraulics pipes and taking out the whole module? Also be great to hear from anyone who repaired one.

I would suggest unpluging the lead from the fan thermostat switch on the radiator. If the fans stop that suggests the thermostat is stuck in the on position. If they stay on that suggests a short in the wiring or, if you have one, a faulty fan controller.

Thanks for asking the question Wino. This is my first attempt at doing anything with the computerised bits of a car. I first checked 3 fuses. Then I got myself vcds lite and found there is no response from abs. With dvm I checked 3 power feeds are at abs plug and can bus lines give 2.4v and 2.6 v with 60 ohm between them. So my conclusion was abs module electrics. I read you can sometimes confirm fault by measuring resistance of bus controller inputs. I got open circuit when I tried on the abs module but I don't know what I should see. I know its a gamble but I'm thinking the price of a second hand unit is probably less than the garage fee to confirm the diagnosis. I plan to connect the plug to the new unit and see if vcds can talk to it before I do the hydraulics. Any further advice most welcome!

Hi, I'm about to try fixing my abs problem by getting a second hand pump/control unit. I believe the part number to be 6Q0614117E but my unit also has HZ2 stamped on it. Can anyone tell me please if I need to match those 3 characters? Thanks, Bill

Hi all, I've been doing my own car maintenance for over 50 years but I'm now for the first time trying to sort problems on a 'computerised' car. I've got a 2003 1.2 fabia estate. I didn't choose it - I got it from my son when he needed something bigger. I've been pleased with it and want to keep it for a good while yet (only 40,000 on clock) but it has life threatening symptoms - ABS not working so MoT fail looming. I look forward to interacting with you guys. Bye for now, Bill