itsdanwatson

I have a Bluetooth module and Torque Pro on my phone. The bugger is that it doesn't connect to the module when the engine light is on. (VERY infuriating) Any other time, I get revs, coolant level, the lot (except engine codes...) Then I bought a cable that came with VAG/VCDS lite, but I have a Macbook, so I've had to install a little Windows Virtual machine on it so when I get an evening free I'll give the cable a whirl. Hopefully I'll get somewhere with that. If not, I've found a couple of VAG group specialist garages in Bristol who are quite reputable. I'm at a loss!

Just did this to my 03 Silverline. Feels much smoother now! I have to admit, I followed the video in the car park on my phone, and had a bit of a panic when my gearbox didn't have a 9-Iron sticking out the top, and the locking mechanism was indeed different. After much trial and error I got there, and then came and saw FabDav's warning about it... :dull: Might make a video myself so people can see exactly what's happening.

Well, I took the spanking. £350 large, new drums, shoes and a refit of the handbrake cable, but I have to say the thing feels much safer, so I won't complain for now! WDL, how did you get on with your brakes?

http://veewservices.co.uk/ in Bedminster http://www.pcmotorsbristol.co.uk/ in Horfield. Both seem to be very reputable and well established. There is Blade Skoda in city centre but they only touch cars <= 8 years old. Pretty much decided on using these two in future for anything else. KF have done a horrible scope-creeping job on me.

Yeah it's a bit of a bummer during the January money drought, but I don't want to be dangerous on the road, rolling back at that junction **** me up no end! I stuck the handbrake on and immediately started rolling back down the hill. I quickly hit the foot brake again, but really struggled to get the gas+gears biting whilst the car was rolling back, and I only have the two feet. I'm a very inexperienced driver, but I think anyone would have struggled a bit in that situation! Had I bought the stuff on EuroCP, it would have cost me about £120 for the lot. Unfortunately I don't have any axle stands to keep the wheels up off the ground, or the time to do it. Next time however, I've found two very reputable VAG specialists in the Bristol area. One of the reviews said that the customer bought the parts separately and got the lads to simply fit them for a very good price. I think this will be my first an only time using Kwik Fit if I can help it!

Thanks for the advice guys. I ended up getting this badboy for 60 quid http://tinyurl.com/jezc2pt Guaranteed for three years so I should be golden. Unfortunately it didn't fix my problems. It turned out the front headlight isn't on because the H7 connector came loose, and arced to the point that it's melted the plug :envy: Oh well. I'm also having the brakes redone as they were getting to the dangerous point :s One day, I'll figure out why that engine light is always on :notme:

I found out the less ideal way that my handbrake wasn't working correctly trying to get out at a very steep junction. Took it in this morning and one of the shoes is rusted shut. Replacing both very worn drums and two new brake shoes as well as a replacement handbrake cable. £350 :sweat:

As part of ongoing diagnostics, it looks like my battery is the cause of a number of issues. Left main head lamp does not come on Constant Engine light on all journeys. EPC usually follows. Battery light is the last to turn off after ignition Having problems trying to get diagnostic codes Reading won't go above 12.6V It's an Exide EB500 and I noticedthat it is smaller than the cradle it sits in under the bonnet, as in much smaller. Dad fixed up the car after Ma killed it, so I'd imagine it was put in as a stop gap. I recently put a new stereo in which I was advised could pull through more power (maybe the straw that broke the camels back?) It starts every time, but I'm sick of the EPC light (brake light always comes on and is fine) I've got it on a trickle charger, but the diagnostic light is staying Black (needs charging) and giving a constant reading of 12.6V So, what I'm completely ignorant of is how to choose a new battery? Am I only limited to the size of the cradle? It would be good to get a higher power one to account for the new stereo.

Seeing as the fluid connector had come off in the boot, the screenwash had pooled inside the trim and may have upset something. I'll do that first as there was a LOT of it built up in there from the initial diagnostics. They're the same brand actually, although most likely a different vintage. I think first I'll plug the old one in. This will be really easy thinking about it as I can just uncouple the new motor without unbolting it, and just stand there with the old one plugged in.

Just bought a replacement motor assembly. £20 quid second hand. The repair kits go up to £60, so they can do one! There's a McGyver way of fixing it but I don't have the time right now. Have a spare to play with though now :D

Well, my replacement arrived today, and was fitted in five minutes, and am pleased to announce that I have a functioning rear washer jet once again! Unfortunately, my car likes it so much, the rear wiper doesn't stop now :dull: It starts wiping the moment I turn on the electrics, and doesn't turn off even after giving itself a few passes after squirting the jet. Phase 2 begins! Any ideas of whats going on and what to check? I was going to simply unplug the connector and plug it in again, but after that I'd be stumped. Is there such thing as a moisture sensor? Modern cars have them but I doubt my 2003 has the technology!

I *think* so. I haven't had a chance to look today. I'm spending tomorrow putting a new rear wiper motor on so I'll check again.

Interesting. I haven't looked yet, but this has potentially saved me a lot of sanity credits! I'm desperately trying to put together a windows virtual machine on my macbook so I can look for error codes with a good old fashioned cable! I did buy a bluetooth VAG tool but the thing is garbage. It only connects to the ECU when there aren't any error lights on the dash :dull: This kind of nudges the cause towards the battery though. Fingers crossed.

How did you get on Paul? I'm having exactly the same problem on my 1.4 8v I got a new radio for christmas and I noticed one of the lights has dimmed considerably, so before I whip off the EGR I'll try the easy win and disconnect the radio. For the people who have removed and cleaned the EGR, the Hayne's manual insists that you need to replace the gasket upon replacing the rest of the valve assembly. Thoughts?

Ah I see! I'm glad I didn't use a puller now! I did have to give it a few whacks with a large spanner to knock out the rust and rot that had fused it to the shaft of the motor. As long as I clean the replacement up it should go on fine :) That's a pretty sick fix Doily. I was thinking along those lines but I'm not great at that stuff. I guess I can give it a shot now I have a spare to play with.

No, I didn't use one of those :/ which screw do you mean? it was a bit of a wrestle to get it off as it had rusted on. WD40 and a wiggle got it off eventually. However, the tube must have been trashed anyway, as the leak situation shown in my first post was before I'd even thought about taking it off.

Christ on a bike. The full unit has cost me £20 from a breaker. Fingers crossed it works otherwise I'll feel a right plum.

#countrylife Anyway, I cracked the motor front facia off and lo and behold the motor section connecting the washer tubing to the jet is completely buggered. I guess it's theoretically possible to fix it but it looks more hassle than its worth. http://imgur.com/a/mcGut I've ordered a second hand replacement from a car breaker on ebay. For reference the part number turned out to be 1J6955711G new ones run up to 80 quid in some places :| Will keep posted about progress.

Hello everyone. My 2003 Fabia 1.4's rear washer is not working. Before you suggest it, I've been through the excellent sticky in the technical guides. I was tinkering with my dad the other week and actually spotted that the connector wasn't done in the bulkhead, but the jet was still nowhere to be seen. Fast forward to the other checks and lo and behold, I'd run the pump and all of a sudden streams of screenwash were coming out of the boot. After removing the trim, the connector is on just fine, however the fluid is coming from the pump system itself as seen here: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5Pxw5AEwJbKTjE5NDVIbDZZbzg/view?usp=sharing I even tried a bit of wd40 and a pin in the jet nozzle to clean out the ming, but no joy :( I've removed it anyway and am just about to take the front plate off to see if I can see anything obvious. If it's buggered, I guess I'll need help finding a part number which would be very much appreciated. I'm still quite new to this stuff.