Dudurin

Hey guys, My Octavia has unfortunately started running on 3 cylinders, i.e very rough. The car isn't throwing any codes, VAG-COM found no faults, and the coil pack is verified okay by replacement. We've isolated the issue to cylinder #4 and replaced the spark plug, but it had no effect. Any ideas?

Had the car hooked up to VCDS Lite earlier today and it doesn't show any codes from the speed sensor. I wanted to perform an output test as well, but VCDS Lite can't do that, unfortunately. Any ideas? I wanted to add this to the OP, but I can't because editing is limited to one hour after posting. A bit silly, I must say.

For some reason I can't edit my post. I forgot to mention that the new cluster was confirmed in working condition prior to the swap.

Hey guys, Recently purchased a 2000 Octavia Estate with a 1.6 AKL engine. When I purchased it, it had some issues, which I've been solving, one of which being that the instrument cluster was faulty. The only thing that worked was the fuel gauge. After further inspection, I noticed that one of the previous owners had disassembled the unit, probably due to the classic speedometer failure, and had completely ruined it in the process. The housing was broken and parts were missing, so it wasn't worth a salvaging attempt. I got my hands on a new unit from similar vintage 1.9 TDi, installed and coded it and now everything works but the speedometer - the fuel gauge fluctuates heavily during driving, but I understand that behaviou is generally found in tandem with speedometer issues. I can live without the speedometer, but it would be nice to have if it's possible. I've tried googling the topic, but with the prevalence of soldering issues within these units, it's hopeless to find info on my specific topic. I've gone through the fuses, brake light- and reverse light switches, which are fine and pulled the pinion gear out of the transmission, pictured below. Looks fine to me. Are there further tests I can do to identify the issue, or is the cluster from a 1.9 TDi not compatible? I forgot to mention earlier that both cars were fitted with manual 5 speed transmissions.

Is there a way to check its integrity with VCDS? I have checked all of them, but unfortunately there were no loose connectors or broken wires. I appreciate your input, guys, since I'm at a complete standstill and the car is using an unbelievable amount of fuel.

Anyone?

Bit of an update: I've purchased a USB to OBDII cable and downloaded VCDS Lite. Anyone able to tell me what to look for specifically?

Little update: I've checked the engine timing and all the marks line up. While revving the engine in idle, the EML came back on. I had the codes read out and it was the exact same codes as earlier. Any suggestions?

Hm, I can't see anything wrong with the system as is. When starting the car, the pump activates, runs for a while without abnormal noise, then stops again. The hoses aren't cracked or leaking. I'm going to lose my mind because of this.

Thank you for the response! I've tried searching the forum, but can't seem to find any information relevant to my engine. Do you perhaps have any links? That said, if the delete requires an engine remap, I unfortunately won't be able to do it. Where I'm from, noone offers that service or has the capabilities needed.

Hey guys, I'm experiencing some performance issues on my 2001 Octavia 1.6 SR (AVU) and have been for quite some time. The car is quite severely down on power (we're talking ~70bhp out of a 102bhp car) but oddly, doesn't run poorly as such. The car doesn't misfire or stutter and revs cleanly up to 6500rpm. The car does however hesitate at throttle, meaning that the rpm's will dip down before increasing when applying throttle, resulting in jerky response when setting off or changing gears. After reading out the fault codes, I got the following: Fuel Trim: Bank 1: P0171 - 35-10 System too lean, periodic EGR System: P1403 - 35-00 - Regulation deviation Secondary Air Injection System; Bank 1 P1423 - 35-00 Insufficient Flow The culprit of the P0171 was the MAF sensor., which has been replaced. I've also deleted the EGR and was told by a mechanic to ignore the P1423, but the car still doesn't run any better. I suspected that the O2 sensor might have gone bad, so I tried disconnecting it to see if it would have any impact on the engine and it does very much so, so I suspect that it's not where the issue is. Do you guys have any ideas? It's driving me up the wall and the car is due for an MOT next Thursday.

Bit of an update: After fiddling around with some vacuum lines today, the EML came on and the subsequent readout issued the following codes: 16486: Mass Airflow Sensor - Signal too low 16497: Air Temperature Sensor - Signal too high Now, I'm by no means a mechanic, but to me this was reasonably conclusive evidence of a faulty MAF sensor. Since I have access to an almost identical, fully functional vehicle, I swapped the faulty sensor with the one from the functional car and went for a drive. The EML light went out, but unfortunately, the car behaves the same - Low on power, sluggish and hesitant to rev from idle. I then fitted the supposedly faulty sensor to the other car and took that out for a drive. It's not quite as smooth as it was, but doesn't drive remotely as poorly as the other car and the EML did not come on. I have no idea what to do from here.

Hey guys, I recently created another thread concerning the same car, but since I have quite a lot more information now, I'm going to start this from scratch. The car in question is a 2001 Skoda Octavia (1U), 1.6 (AVU) with 143.000 miles on the clock. The problem with the car is that it's low on power, sluggish to operate and, during idle, emits an oily/petrol odor from somewhere into the cabin. I've driven another Octavia 1.6 with the AKL engine, meaning that it's one hp down on mine, yet it feels like a race car comparatively. The check engine light has been on once and after a VCDS readout, the faults were P0171, P1403 and P1423. After deleting the codes, they never returned, but the car still runs poorly. Despite the codes not returning, I chose to clean the throttle body and MAF sensor, but to no avail. After going over the engine, I noticed that two breather hoses were cracked, which, in my opinion, would case unmetered air to enter the throttle body. I used heat shrink tubing to repair these, but it didn't change anything, unfortunately. I've also tried disconnecting the MAF sensor, but the car drives almost exactly the same. One thing I found that worries me, is that the air filter and ducting was completely covered in oil, hence the cleaning of the MAF. Could my engine be severly damaged? The car doesn't run rough and sounds completely fine. Could it be due to the breather tube being snapped off? I really hope the car is fixable. I'm struggling a bit financially at the moment, so expensive repairs are not an option and breaker yards don't exist where I'm from. Lastly, I apologize for any terminological mishaps that might be present. I'm not natively english, so some of the terms I had to guess.

Cleaned the throttle body and MAF sensor last night and in the process of refitting it all, I found that a pipe that leads from the hose between the MAF and throttle body to the oil filler cap is completely off. The pipe that continues from there is also snapped in two. Could this be what causes all my issues?

I'll be checking out the vacuum lines later today. I unfortunately don't have access to a VCDS at the moment, but I'm going to try cleaning the throttle body and MAF later today and we'll see if it yields any results. Thanks for the advice, guys.