UniqueTimes

Well in short, Nope skoda is refusing . So Im taking it to the motor ombudsmen now as a last ditch attempt, see what they say and see if its an avenue worth looking down. If i fail in that quest then unfortunately im gonna have to sort it by other means. And currently my only option is having my abs control unit reconditioned, im avoiding a scrapyard part at the moment. A new part ya cant get anywhere other than main dealer, for £740 +VAT. Reconditioned im looking at £200.

Hello everyone. Im seeking some precautionary advice before i take on the job of fixing my ABS control module on my 2009 petrol 200bhp mk2 Octavia vrs, pre facelift. Engine code CCZ. Im in research mode currently, and so far i have established a company who can refurbish my original unit for around £190.00, or i have found a used unit for £152.00 with a matching P/N 1KO614517BD. The company i have found is called BBA Reman, their based in Rochester in Kent. Oh and the used part btw is off a 2011 mk2 with same engine code ect ect. Im not doing main dealer for obvious reasons (plus thats another long story and hassel ive had). Really what im after is coding info. If i was to have my original unit refurbed, will it need recoding to the car when i refit? Seeing as its original to the car im hoping i should be ok. And same with the used part, its was paired to a different car so seems quite likely to me it will need coding/pairing upon fitting? Now if i take the route of using the original, which its looking like i am first, is there any precautionary measures i can do before removal so as i don't lose some important information such as codes thus making my life difficult. Maybe i can grab the codes and stop a stressfull refit. I have a friend who can do the coding for me and has the tools for the job, tho he will need to gen up a bit from his support team. Hes deals more with BMW's and Mercedes but more than capable. Any help and advice appriciated.

Well doesn't appear to be a glitch matey. All my lights have reappeared today :( I have been to skoda today also, and managed to get them to plug in and confirm it was the ABS / ESP Control Module... but wait for it,...they did it for FREE!! Whoop whoop lol. I am now in talks with them in regards to having the part replace for FREE. I will find out more tomorrow. But what i do no is and remember at the time of the software update, they did tell me id be covered if the lights appeared right there n then. My issue is im 10 months after that update was done, ive a warranty receipt for the update as proof plus ill be on the system. But how far does this warranty cover me, i dont mean in time but actual replacement parts id be covered for off the back of a software update of this type. At the moment im unsure what the out come will be, but im a fighter and in my opinion there are to many links with the module itself and the software update that i cant not fight it at nearly £1200 for the part, so trust I'm going the whole hog. I have few angles to try to bacsicly force a free replacement but were see. I will return here as i learn more and ultimately tell you all what the out come was.

Hi all, im very late to this thread like 3 years lol but hey thats what its all about right. I just wanted to say, I recently drove a friends imported Honda s2000, and well the gear shifting was beautiful, SHORT, tight and smooth, emphasis on the short. Well it got me thinking how far within reason could i go to improve my mk2 Octavia vrs, but tastefully. Im not new to Briskoda, and this was definitely my first point of call to see what others have done regarding this. Upon finding this thread i read everythink, and understood the logic you guys had worked out. Thanks to the access to the P/N and a clear video of how to change the part and the info of throw reduction being around 20% all on offer in this thread i just had to try it out . So I ordered my part from Audi 2 days ago and it arrived today, cost me £45.00. I fitted the part 2day, although at the start i was concerned as the new shifter and the original didnt appear to be any different when held side by side. They actually looked that similar i had to do a test with both before i done a road test. So please concider this my contribution to the thread.... seeing as the shifter was so easy to fit i decided to measure how much throw difference there actually was with the gear stick itself and its positioning. Well i can confirm there is an 1.1cm difference from a resting netural position to 1st gear resting position, seems small but It is noticeable and was enough for me to realise the 2 shifters were different. Now that im satisfied the part is reducing the throw i now took it for a road test. And wow guys what a difference, an almost perfect setup for the cars power, seriously the shifts are definitly shorter and makes the power delivery more seamless, and hands down how this car should have been setup from standard. Its a big fat thumbs up from me And thanks guys for the help making this experiance an easy one

@spunjedd Nope nothing has reacured since clearing the fault, no lights or beeps... nothing. Driverbility hasn't changed either, everthink feels just as it should do. Sorry for the late reply Matt.

Hi guys. Wanted to add to this thread i started 10 months ago as i have a reaccuring issue relating to the recall on the ABS software update . I assume majority of those affected here by the recall have had all there work by now. But have any of you which only had the software update had any issues since??? I today started my car ready to drive to work as normal when instantly as the car started i had 3 loud audible beeps and my ABS light and ESP light came on solid, along with a flashing handbrake light as well. My first thought was maybe its a speed sensor (not thinking "recall" as i was still half a sleep lol). I drove the car to work absolutley fine with the lights still visable. The car was then sat for around 8 hours before i left work. The problem (lights n beeps) remained when i started the car to drive home and stayed on. I have a friend who has a very capable Diagnostics tool worth 15k that he has access to via his work, i had him plug in for me and run a check.... The fault which appeared was the following...... #16352 Control module faulty. #DTC Logged Enviromental Condition Now this fault from my research is the control module that id hoped would have failed when Skoda did the software update. Skoda at the time told me the update could cause this module to throw up a perminate light on the dashboard, and that if it did they would replace it under the recall as well (i was gutted that it didnt fail at the time as they said its a £1000 part). Well it has failed now in my eyes. So I have 2 questions for you all, but bare in mind first that my mate has cleared the codes and jump the gun a bit, and there is now no fault or lights showing... but i do have pictures on my phone with relevant details of the fault and my cars details on the same screen. Q Will skoda replace this part without them seeing the fault with there own eyes and tools? But still act on my pictures alone for proof of the fault ( pictures that show my cars milage and chassis number on the same page as the fault code ) And or.... Q If they could see the lights ect with there own eye's and tools (say they dont accept the previous Q above) will they still replace it under the recall? even though the software update was 10 months ago. Id appriciate any advice or tips on this matter. Im kinda in the mindset now they wont accept my pictures and im gonna have to wait for the lights n fault to reappear. But But But ya never know Thanks

Id be inclined to change it right away if you have notice holes in the same area as mine, if its just stretch-marks maybe just monitor it, but holes dunno bout that buddy. I notice mine yesterday, got part today and fitting it 2moro, but thats just me, better safe then maybe sorry i say. £20 fix or a new engine worse case if left n forgotten about.. If i wasnt so perticular with my car i may not have topped my coolant up in them 5 months and then bang goes my engine. Or if i keep topping it up knowing theres holes and one day im driving along the motorway at 70mph and that tank explodes because it structure is compromised and the pressure got to much, i mean why couldn't it do that its already failing right? I feel theres that chance. And a chance i wouldnt want to take. Treat your baby to a new tank . And thanks again to everyone. I shall send pics 2moro with some close ups of the damage and how it looks from the inside also. But my ????'s are now confidently laid to rest.

Hi "Wino" . Thanks for the reply. Each time i notice the level had dropped, it had only ever dropped from the max to minimum mark maybe just under the minmum on loss of coolant. Its never become an empty tank, I seemed to catch it at the right time every time. So i guess about 125mil to 200mil each top up. If it had emptied i forsure would expect some over heating and bigger problems, especially if i didnt catch it in time. Seems my perticular nature has prevailed in this case. Im confident all is ok now. Guess we now know the extreme case of an old and deteriorated coolant tank and where its expect to occur on the tank it self. Thanks guy's.

Many thanks "TheClient" That has as good as answered my question. I believe this is totally the case looking at thoses pic's on that link u sent.. A poor quality coolant tank and over time its weakened...simple as that. Weather a heavy foot has helped or not, the plastic used here is clearly not up to the job concidering the car/engine it is installed to. These tank really should last longer than the car itself. The pinkish discolouring on my tank is clearly coolant penertraing and staining the deteriorating plastic, which personally was giving the appearance of somethink corrosive eating the plastic. But thanks again. My mind is now at ease. Just once last thing to everyone.... what could be affected by not having full pressure in the coolant system? may this have cause damage to anythink else? if anythink at all. Maybe a lack in performance (not that ive noticed it. Could it have stopped coolant circulating efficiently or anythink else? Any thoughts or knowledge would be appriciated.

I to am curious "Micmac". I just today collected my new tank and shall be fitting it tomorrow. I will take more photos and post here once complete. Im also gonna cut the damage tank in half and see what the surface is like on the inside of the tank. I will report back. And yes it looks exactly like you discribed... (Sat on its side with a puddle mark of somethink corrosive which stained the plastic)

Its possible "Brad1.8T" . Although the wiring with the corrugated cover you speak of is very tight with little slack and actually sits into a bracket attacted to the tank its self, i cant see it ever reaching the affected area to rub the surface of the tank so harshly. There also isnt any sign of rubbing on the corrugated wire cover either, at most just dented plastic.

Hi guys. Thought id share my discovery of a mysterious coolant leak. For about 4 months now i have been topping up my coolant every 300 to 400 miles and have been wondering what the hell is happening. I have had no oil and coolant mixing, no smoke occur, or any signs of coolant puddles or worse still the engine over heating, literally nothing guys. Today i got hold of a pressure test kit from friend who went ahead and tested my coolant system. The kits guage didnt even reach the usal expected pressure a car would achieve in operating condition. The pressure loss was instant and the source was quickly identified, it was the tank itself. It had perished and had around 20 pin sized holes in the plastic. If you see in my attach picture your notice a pinkish area on the left side of the tank and maybe some bubbles from the soapy water i used, across that pink band is where the holes are. Now luckily this was a gem of a result to find and not somethink more serious, and the problem is easily fix. But my question ultimately is why has this happened? There are no signs upon detective inspection as to whats caused it. The perished area of the tank looks a cross between corrosive deterioration and melted plastic with some surface pitting . Now there was nothing in the surrounding area that showed any sign of being the cause to this, such as a melt wire or idk what.. This car is untouch and unmodified and in superb condition around the engine bay. Has anybody seen this before? Is it simply a worn out tank over time and the heat and pressures have taken its toll. But also as importantly what issues may this have caused over the past 4 months other than maybe 1ltr of coolant veung replaced... is it possible its caused further damage? Was my coolant working efficiently during this time concidering the pressure wouldnt have been able to increase as it was designed. Any advice, or first hand knowledge as to why this happened would be appriciated. Look forward to seeing what peeps have to say. I own the petrol - Limited Edition Octavia VRS No.59 if that helps. Many thanks

Hi guys... sorry to bring up another thread for a p0303 fault code, ive looked at all the other threads on this forum and none are seeming to go as far as mine with regards to a process of elimination based on this code and past changing coils and spark plugs with an odd mention of injectors. Im wondering if anybody has actually successfully cleared this code.... but not by the regular coil changes and spark plug change. My sinarieo is this. Please bare with me...... My issue started 5 months ago when i experiance on 2 seperate occasions over a 2 week period i had some very bad misfiring and ruff idling upon start up from cold. Both occasion the engine light flashed up but also cleared quite quickly, as did the ruff idling/running when i persisted to throttle the car through the ruffness. After the second occasion I decided to contact a friend who owns a vag dianostic machine. He plugged my car in and it brought up a p0302 intermittent misfire cylinder 2 fault (common fault code i know). In short we cleared all the codes, but not before having a fiddle with the harness and connections as well a re-seating the coils just incase they've lifted excessively off the plugs, either due to vibration over time or knowing id already replaced my sparks plugs 8000miles previously and possibly they hadn't been reseated correctly by my mechanic at the time, either way im happy the plugs are fine being so new, where as my coils are original at 70k as far as i know. The plugs i installed at the time were Denson Iridiums plugs - £80 for 4. Now from here i actually didnt have another problem relating to this until 3 months later when i actually broke down on a journey in the car. I was driving quite happily round the country lanes when suddenly i had some misfiring happen, i pulled over streight away and switch the car off... i then proceeded to pop the hood up and pushed down on all my coils, which all dropped about 1 - 2mm ( infact when i did my fiddle above ^ they dropped about the same then too ) .. anyway i then went to restart the car, it cough n spluttered and kick out a huge cloud of white-ish smoke from the exhaust, i immediately stop trying to start the car and at that point and my worse nightmares flashed before my eyes... i let the car sit for about 20min while i was scratching my head thinking @#$! NO!!!!....lol, i then went to start it again.... and it started, though very ruff at first it did sort itself out and began to idle and rev fine within a minute and no smoke at all, sounded perfect. I even continued a 15 mile journey with no more problems. But still i contacted my buddy again, we plugged in and again we had the same fault a p0302. So now on the strength of this i decided to replace the coils as im still confident my spark plugs are ok being so new. I purchased 4 new Bosch coils at £115 with a £70 saving from a promo....Sweet deal i felt!!. I fitted these new coils 2 weeks ago. At the time when i fitted them i didnt have any new misfiring happening and all was running fine, so i actually didn't notice any change in drivability or anythink for that matter once id fitted the new coils, until yesterday that is.... my car was up to temperature, and i had driven it about 2 miles from my home when i experianced some hesitation under low acceleration along with my engine light which flashed on for 10 to 15 seconds then everythink cleared including the engine light and car returned to normal and seemed to run fine. So today i decided to pull my spark plugs out and have a look at them, i was first suprized to find my baby daughter would have had the strength to loosen cylinder 2's spark plug yet the rest were about as tight as id expect them to be... this suddenly give me a small light bulb moment where i thought well a sloppy plug in cylinder 2 which is the cylinder showing a fault everytime, i felt id possibly stumbled across the root cause to all this... but and a big BUT! I had my buddy plug in again today as well and to my amazment and shock its now reading a p0303 intermittent misfire cylinder 3.... please Note cylinder "3" and not 2 which it has been the whole dame time, yes the misfire has moved. Codes are once again cleared and sparks are tightened correctly. Where do i go next????? HELP ME PLEASE!!! Thoughts, ideas, anythink... what should be next in my process of elimination. Coil harness connections? Injectors? Anythink cheaper than injectors to try first? Appologise for the long read btw, and i do hope ive been clear enough for you to understand how events have panned out and i havent just rambled. Heres a summary.... What ive done so far..... *New spark plugs fitted 8k before first n second misfire detections. Reseated original coils at the time and cleared fault codes. *New coils fitted after the 3rd detection which was 3 month after the 1st detection came up. Fault codes cleared again. *Fault has now jumped from cylinder 2 to 3 following the coils being changed 2 weeks ago. Reseated spark plugs today and when i unscrewed them i found Cylinder 2 was not tight enough, completely effortless) Codes cleared once again. * If fault re-occurs now, i can eliminate all the above plus spark plugs not being tightened correctly. Thanks for a taking the time to read this... lol hope ya didnt fall asleep

That's some bad luck johnfindall.... the control unit shouldn't have cost u a penny. Its part of the recall... if/when skoda do the update, there is a chance it will cause the ABS light to remain on. I was told in this instance (before any work was done) if this was to happen i wont get the car back on the same day as i new control unit will have to be ordered and fitted and that it would be completely free. Unlucky for me the ABs light didnt come on. So why you got a £1050 bill i dont no. Id certainly be on to skoda giving them a few choice word's personally.

My car went into today for it's recall. Took 1hr and 10mins. I made it very clear what I wanted from this update and that I didn't want any EMISSIONS update what so ever. Everythink went smoothly and I'm very happy its done. As a side note for those yet to have work done....... before i signed the paperwork for the work to be completed i was made aware that in some cases during the system update, it can cause the ABS warning light to show up "permimately". They said if this happens i wouldn't be getting my car back today, as they would need to change the main ABS module unit thingy and it would need ordering in. This part costs a wooping £1000 plus. But would be covered under the warranty, of course it would be....phew!!. So bare that in mind guys, I actually wished the light would have come on so I get a nice new shiny expensive part Jobs a gooden