Element7

ABS... ok thanks, I'll have a look at that this weekend 👍

Have a very frustrating problem with my Fabia... The rear offside brake cylinder developed a bad leak, braking power very poor, near home so very carefully managed to get it home. Left it outside, pouring rain. Next day I discovered the cylinder had seemingly emptied a lot of brake fluid overnight. I couldn't do anything with it for a week. My driveway is on a slope downhill, I got the car down the drive very carefully without using brakes but just using clutch biting point in 1st gear. Positioned at the bottom of the drive. Removed the drum, wet mess inside throughout. Got new shoes & new cylinder, cleaned it all up, fitted new cylinder & new shoes, replaced drum and began trying to bleed it. Suspected the master cylinder had gone dry. Put 500ml brake fluid into the master cylinder reservoir - brimmed. Initially some tiny amount of air came out through the hose on the bleed valve but then it stopped & now nothing comes out at all despite assistant pressing brake pedal (up, down, up down etc). Fluid level still brimmed at reservoir. Tried sucking the air through the bleed valve with a pump but again, nothing. Figure there's an airlock somewhere? Have read that if a master cylinder is allowed to go dry then it itself needs to be bled of air - how would I do that? Location of the reservoir likely prohibits sitting a container onto it... Your valuable advice would be most appreciated!

I have used the string method in the past but on the Fabia the front mudflap sticks out further than the rim of the front wheel so I can't get the string to accurately 'line up' the rear wheels with the front wheels. There are videos on youtube & I've watched a few of them but as yet I'm still looking for the ideal diy set up. It's not rocket science and I'll figure it out soon enough; just hoping someone on here might have done theirs & could share their technique...

Does anyone use a diy technique for adjusting their tracking of the front wheels that works? I have looked at the available tools and kits on Amazon & eBay etc but would prefer to follow a tried and trusted method. There must be a simple way of aligning wheels that doesn't involve visiting garages and dealers and handing over some hard earned; My local garages are charging the cost equivalent of a new tyre +... There has to be an easy way to uncouple the tracking rod lock nuts and accurately adjust either until the correct tracking is met then tightening up? Anyone?

Just rethinking this problem. I can use the car around the town for cold, short journeys but not out of town. When out of town it is fine and perfectly ok until a certain moment then there's a hesitation and this becomes a shuddering to almost kangaroo-ing then it will cut out altogether. When I sense the hesitation, I can ease off the accelerator and slow down and it becomes almost bareable to get me to a layby. I can then switch off remove the key, wait two minutes then it is usually ok for another very short distance. However, last night in the town I was driving short distances A to B, B to C, C to A etc then when the engine was warm, it cut out altogether without the previous hesitation stage. Dead on the road. Hazards on and waited 2 mins then it started fine and I got home. My thoughts are turning to the injector loom. I did see a vid on youtube where someone showed a section of 2 wires that he traced from the injectors to the ECU then eventually found a section where they'd shorted to each other due to the plastic cover rubbing against them. I think I could define the colours of each relevant wire and then trace them back to the ECU and simply by-pass each with new wire and a joint at either end - or do a resistance/continuity test on each when running good and when not - and then replace that/those wires that are not good. This has to be a less expensive/less time consuming job than removing. servicing/replacing the injectors. The car's only done 77k; I've never had a car, ever with injector problems - but it seems pretty low mileage for such a problem to my naive mind!

I can't scan it as I don't have a compatible code reader but the garage that had it to diagnose - said it gave no fault codes - even when it died on the road in front of them. I haven't looked to see whether the filter was low on fuel - but have just changed the tank pump for a new one - I no longer suspect supply of fuel to be the problem...

Well I bought a new lifter pump and replaced the old one. Drove down the road and within 5 minutes the same power loss / fuel starving symptoms returned; the pump was not the problem. It appears that the garage I took it to were probably correct in their diagnosis - that it is one or other of the injectors that has a problem. Just watched a couple of youtube videos on the injector rreplacement; reckon it's just about within my abilities. However - the next question is - how do I know which injector is the faulty one?

Yep, figure it is likely the lift pump; I'll look into it tomorrow... despite the -6 forecast 🥶😃

Skoda Fabia 1.9PD (BSW Engine code) 2008 77k miles Only when engine is hot does it lose power and cut out when driving. When cold it starts and runs fine; around town no problems at all. Take it for a drive 12-15 miles when engine is hot - it dies on me. I pull over into a layby, turn ignition off. Wait a minute, turn ignition on again & it’s perfectly fine again for a short while then the same thing happens. No fault codes, no dash error or EML lights. I have: changed fuel filter, MAF sensor, cleaned out EGR & turbo inlet feed pipe (Mr Muscle treatment). It is not turbo related; it happens even when car engine isn’t under enough load for turbo to act. Took it to a local (good) garage & they can’t define the problem; no codes come up (even though it died on them when they took it on the road). It is likely to be fuel related; almost as though starved of fuel when engine gets hot on the road. I am going to look at the lift pump in the tank and see whether it may have a gauze filter that may be clogged up – or if some part of it is perhaps stopping it from feeding fuel to the fuel filter when hot unused fuel is being returned to the tank. If anyone has had a similar issue with a 1.9PD engine I’d like to hear from you!