eltax90

Hi all Just thought I would pop my head up and say hi. I crashed my TDi 110 Octavia 5 months ago, and foolishly put myself in a Mazda 6 since. Sadly, it was terminally ill with a DPF fault, so is soon to be listed on eBay, in a forlorn condition! So, on to pastures new, I have bought myself a 54 plate Octy Elegance, 53k on the clock, FSH and recent belt change, it's the PD130 variant, which has quite the repritation for being bombproof. Questions:- What are the service intervals for this engine? Will it be any harder to self-service than my 110 TDi? I did many a fluid/ filter change on that! Is it a simple retro-fit for cruise control like my last Octy was? If so, any recommendations for places to buy the stalk/ wiring (i would be turning this job over the a mechanic) Cheers all A Happy Skoda owner

Hi Just had a look at the Ad, looks good. Were you looking for anything in particular as a part ex? I have a 55 plate Mazda 6 with the 143hp 2.0 Common Rail Diesel in it. I paid £3750 for it 4 months ago. My ONLY reason for changing is I have dodgy shoulder/ neck injuries and can't get on with the seats. Otherwise I love it and it's pretty mint :( If you could PM a reply that would be great, don't have notifications set up for replies.

Would love to see some Pictures....

Hi Folks Yesterday my Octavia TDi 110 started being hesitant under boost and has been all over the place. Instantly I thought the MAF must have packed in, so I got VAG COM on and got the result below. If the "Flap" mentioned also part of the MAF? Will thsi code clear when I change the MAF? Also, anyone have any suggestion of th ebest place to buy? I've looked at GSF and they have an "Air Mass Meter" (can anyone confirm if this is the same thing) listed at £82... Good price? Cheers in advance for the help - will be nice to get the boost back. VAG-COM Version: Release 311.2-N Chassis Type: 1U - Skoda Octavia Scan: 01,02,03,08,15,17,19,35,46,56 Address 01 ------------------------------------------------------- Controller: 038 906 018 GN Component: 1,9l R4 EDC G000SG 2163 Coding: 00002 Shop #: WSC 31480 1 Fault Found: 16485 - Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70): Implausible Signal P0101 - 35-00 - - Readiness: N/A Address 03 ------------------------------------------------------- Controller: 1J0 907 379 Q Component: ABS/EDS 20 IE CAN 0001 Coding: 13304 Shop #: WSC 31480 No fault code found. Address 08 ------------------------------------------------------- Controller: 1U1 907 044 A Component: CLIMATRONIC C 0.7.0 Coding: 01000 Shop #: WSC 31480 1 Fault Found: 01274 - Air Flow Flap Positioning Motor (V71) 37-00 - Faulty Skipping Address 15-Airbags Address 17 ------------------------------------------------------- Controller: 1U2 919 034 G Component: A4-KOMBIINSTR. VDO V22 Coding: 00442 Shop #: WSC 00957 IMMO-IDENTNR: SKZ7Z0Y0475402 No fault code found. Address 46 ------------------------------------------------------- Controller: 1J0 959 799 AH Component: 5H Zentral-SG Komf. 0001 Coding: 04097 Shop #: WSC 31480 No fault code found. End -------------------------------------------------------

That does help. Do you know what ratio the 5L "Ready Mix" is mixed to from the factory? I presume it's 50:50

I bought the "Ready Mixed Top Up" coolant in 5 litres. With my Trade Card i've paid about £12 for it. So I now have a container that has 10 litres in, and it's 7.5L water and 2.5L collant (based on the ready mix being 50:50). So, by my reckoning, I need to buy 5L of "Neat" coolant, and that'll give me 15L total, which is a mix of 7.5L Coolant, 7.5L water. That'll be 50:50. So, will it be OK to do this? I'd prefer not to throw away the cash, but if I have to then I have to.

Hi all I bought all my bits on my trade card yesterday at Halfords for the full service on my wife's TDi 100 Audi A3. As part of the service I am changing the sticky thermostat and renewing the coolant. I bought a 5L bottle of the RED coolant, which conforms to the VAG standard as it meets the same spec as the G12+ coolant. I've read a number of threads on here, all of which have said buy it and mix it 50/50. Last night, I grabbed anoether container and mixed up the coolant 50/50, so I now have 10 litres of coolant. I was just looking on the halfords site today, to check for the G12 stamp and pictures of the bottle on the website say "ready mixed". The bottle is at home, ready for coolant change at the weekend, so I can't double check what the actual bottle says, so if it is ready mixed, can I rescue it by buying some neat coolant and mixing it, or have I got to suck it up and buy some all over again? Cheers folks

Can't help you with your problem, however, could you point me at the links for the thermo change guide? Will be attacking this on the wife's car this weekend.

Guys Thanks for the answers, particularly the part number, very helpful! I have had a reply from one ebay breaker, who want's 12 quid for the "double r" clip plus the 4 other clips! I'll be off to the dealer at lunch.

Hi folks I did a service on my Octy TDi 110 last weekend, and I lost the clip listed as number 5 in the following link. I can't find any in the scrap yards, they all seem to just cut the pipes off and chuck the fuel filter away! Also, one of the clips has perished that was attached to pipe number 7, and when i squeezed it it bent and needed removing, so said pipe is now secured with a tie-wrap! So, will I be able to replace these from a dealer? I've emailed people breaking Octavia's on eBay, but no replies, obviously too small a part to be bothered posting out. I'd prefer to replace with proper bits, rather than bodging on cable ties and nails to hold the fuel filter nozzle down!

Folks. I posted about this a couple of weeks ago, my Wife's A3 100 TDi has done the same thing. Temp gauge up and down between cold and 90, temp sender changed recently whilst diagnosing another fault. I'm going to change the Thermostat, and probably all the coolant, since the A3 is a recent purchase, i've no idea of the age of the current coolant, so in for a penny etc. My question is around the G12 coolant (thought i'd reply in here as the OP might be interested). Do i have to buy G12 coolant from a dealer, or will GSF/ Halfords RED do the job? Also, once drained from the bottom of the radiator, is there a procedure to re-fill and bleed the cooling system?

Hi folks. My wife went out in her MY02 As Tdi (100) today and when she left the coolant warning light came up on the dash. I talked her through checking the coolant level, it's fine, so i told her to drive it and watch for the gauge to creep above the normal "90", if it did so i told her to pull over straight away. She drove it around 8 miles to her mum's (normally plenty enough to warm it up) but the gauge never reached the normal point. It got to about the quarter mark, then dropped back down into the blue section over 30 seconds or so, then went back up to the quarter mark. It didn't go any further after this. She's not come back in the car, so i can't get VAG-COM onto it until the morning. Anyone offer any idea's on what it might be? First thoughts are thermostat, so i might try and pick one up tomorrow. Thoughts appreciated.

Thanks for the reply both of you. Are you sure that the older 110 TDi's had a 55 litre tank? Ever since i hade mine, i've only ever got 40-46 litres as my standard fill-up. I have to keep a record of all fuel receipts for work so have records of over 100 tanks now! If so, i definitely have some form of issue restricting the amount of fuel i can get in the tank as it's been very consistent in terms of what i get in. I fill up with the warning light as much as i can, but sometimes i'll fill up with between red and quarter as i have a long run to do, i have never filled up on half or more. Just done a scan down the litres column on 100+ tanks and the most i've ever squeezed in is 45 litres....

Hi folks. I have a MY00 Octavia 1.9 TDi (110) and i've ran it rather low on fuel. The light came on yesterday and the garage near home was closed this morning, i've done 52 miles since the light came on, just gone to the garage and it spluttered for a second or too so i killed the engine and pushed it the last 10 yeards to the pump. Cue lots of from the staff! I should add that when it came on i'd done roughly the right kind of mileage from the previous fill up as i would expect to get normally. Anyway, i filled up and put 47 litres in the tank, it's started and run fine on the 2 miles back to the office, except the fuel indicator needle is now stuck at 3/4 mark. Questions:- What is the tank capacity? (ie. is 47 litres about full, or have i short-filled) Could running it down to beyond the red cause the sender to stick? Cheers folks.

Hi folks. My Octavia TDi 110 is starting to show signs of clutch slip and i'm thinking of a remap, so i'd like to get the clutch changed ahead of time. I have not had a look in the haynes yet, but i always prefer to do my research with some real live experience too! So, does anyone know of a clutch change guide that it would be useful to read, is it DIY-able? I'm capable of 3 spanner jobs in Haynes, so i'm no expert but i'm OK! should give me something to read while i'm bored at work.

CAREFUL - check the tyres are not directional before you swap. IF they are, only swap front/back, not nearside/offside

OK, cool. I think i can get the oil changed. I like to be 100% prepared though, is there a guide anywhere on how to change it? I can't find one.

Hi folks. I have an X plate Octavia with the 110 TDi lump in it. I bought it on 75k with full-on history. It's now done 121k and still starts on the button. I use it to do a lot of miles for work (35-40k a year) and over about the last 3k or so, basically last week, the gearbox has started to feel a bit tight when selecting gears. Mrs Eltax drove it for the first time in ages yesterday and complained of leg and arm ache after driving it! I've obviously not noticed it feeling tighter over time. There is no abnormal crunching or weird noises, like i say, it just feels a bit stiffer. It's not like Mrs E drives a totally different car, she as an A3 with a 100 TDi in it so it should feel similar. So, what do we reckon folks? I have some gear oil in the shed that i bought for my last car and then sold. Autodata shows it's the correct grade. Would changing the gear oil help, or is my clutch or gearbox on the way out? I do a lot of my own spannering, but it's not obvious to me where the drain/ re-fill plugs are on the 'box. Haynes doesn't seem obvious as it covers several gearbox models...

I had this on a MK3 golf, never did get to the bottom of the issue! I just wired a liitle switch in series with the fuse! Then switched it on whenever i needed to. Even the MOT man allowed it!!

Hi folks. I've had a few issues put right with a local specialist on the wife's A3 TDi 100. They've replaced the alternator pulley as it was very noisy, plus they've cleaned and reattached all the earth points on the car which has cured all but one fault code. What is this component, and how necessary is it to change it? Address 56 ------------------------------------------------------- Controller: 8L0 035 186 G Component: concert II GRO 0008 Coding: 00001 Shop #: WSC 06435 1 Faults Found: 01317 - Control Module in Instrument Cluster (J285) 49-10 - No Communications - Intermittent

Hi all I had the car in at a garage yesterday and they have diagnosed the fault as the viscous pulley on the alternator as having destroyed itself. New pully and alternator belt seems to have solved the problem...

Hi folks I posted about the wife's Audi A3 TDi having funny electrical issue all over the place. Symptoms are the Radio keeps going into "Safe" mode, and the electric one-touch windows are playing up. There is a "whirring" noise intermittantly when at idle in traffic (i've not heard it yet), this noise goes away when you rev, or when you use the electric window buttons. I suspect a didgy alternator, i've listed the fault codes below, does anyone have any other thoughts before i take it to a dealer to get bent over? Codes:- VAG-COM Version: Release 303.1 Chassis Type: 8L - Audi A3/S3 Scan: 01,02,03,08,15,17,22,35,37,45,54,55,56 Address 01 ------------------------------------------------------- Controller: 038 906 019 DE Component: 0000SG 1553 Coding: 00002 Shop #: WSC 06435 WAUZZZ8L13A040244 AUZ5Z0B8175089 2 Faults Found: 17664 - Engine Coolant Temp Sensor (G62): Open or Short to Plus P1256 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent 18080 - Coolant Fan Control 1: Open or Short to Ground P1672 - 35-00 - - Readiness: N/A Address 03 ------------------------------------------------------- Controller: 1C0 907 379 M Component: ESP FRONT MK60 0102 Coding: 0019458 Shop #: WSC 06435 2 Faults Found: 00668 - Supply Voltage Terminal 30 008 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent 00495 - ESP-Sensor Unit (G419): Supply Voltage 012 - Electrical Fault in Circuit - Intermittent Address 08 ------------------------------------------------------- Controller: 8L0 820 043 H Component: A3 KLIMAAUTOMAT 0105 Coding: 00044 Shop #: WSC 06435 No Faults Found or DTCs not supported by controller or a communication error ocurred Skipping Address 15-Airbags Address 17 ------------------------------------------------------- Controller: 8L0 920 950 D Component: KOMBI+WEGFAHRS. M73 D04 Coding: 00440 Shop #: WSC 00000 WAUZZZ8L13A040244 AUZ5Z0B8175089 0 Faults Found: Address 35 ------------------------------------------------------- Controller: 8D0 862 257 E Component: CV-Pump, Alarm, RC D17 Coding: 15178 Shop #: WSC 06435 9 Faults Found: 01367 - Central Locking Pump Run Time Exceeded (Likely Leak) 35-00 - - 01371 - Alarm triggered by Door Contact Switch: Driver's Side 35-00 - - 01372 - Alarm triggered by Door Contact Switch: Passenger Side or Rear 35-00 - - 01374 - Alarm triggered by Terminal 15 35-00 - - 01370 - Alarm triggered by Interior Monitoring 35-00 - - 01369 - Alarm triggered by Hood Switch 35-00 - - 00955 - Key 1 09-00 - Adaptation Limit Surpassed 00956 - Key 2 09-00 - Adaptation Limit Surpassed 01134 - Alarm Horn (H12) 49-10 - No Communications - Intermittent Address 45 ------------------------------------------------------- Controller: 4B0 951 173 Component: Innenraumueberw. D03 Coding: 00001 Shop #: WSC 00000 0 Faults Found: Address 56 ------------------------------------------------------- Controller: 8L0 035 186 G Component: concert II GRO 0008 Coding: 00001 Shop #: WSC 06435 1 Faults Found: 01317 - Control Module in Instrument Cluster (J285) 49-10 - No Communications - Intermittent End -------------------------------------------------------

OK, cool. I have VAG COM on my laptop and a reader cable, have read my Octy before!! Will try to find the OBD connector and do a scan.

Hi folks, not on my Octy, but last week we bought the Mrs an Audi A3 on a 52 plate with the same TDi 100 lump in it as my Octy (ok, mine is the 110, but basically the same). Anyway, the car had no tax so we only go it on the road this weekend. Since then it's got a few funny little things with it, there is a whirring noise that is only present at idle, as soon as you rev the car is goes away. Also, the one-touch windows, although working, are behaving very eratically, they don't stick to one sequence, but are all over the place. Finally, the radio keeps radonmly turning itself off in the middle of driving, or when switching off, then putting itself into "safe" mode, needing the code to unlock it. The points where all the thin-core wire connect to the battery look brand new, and i'm wondering if it's had a problem that couldn't be fixed before it got traded in. Could the symptoms i describe above be alternator related, i have to say, that doesn't look old and caked up either... really hoping we havn't bought a lemon!!

Hi all I have Mk1 SLX TDi (110) on an X reg. I've searched the forums and found useful threads such as the one showing pictures of non-standard tools etc. So, to change the gear oil on my Octi, what specific tools will i need? I've crawled under and the drain plug looks like it might be double-torx? I've seen one on the draper website. Not sure what the re-fill plug requires! Anyone any idea.