wolf89

OK, quick update - just in case we've checked if for some reason the negative terminals (Engine/Chassis and NegBatt/Chassis) were iffy, but unfortunately both passed with flying colours. We did notice that with the BMS (fuse 9) installed, the alternator occasionally dropped to 50W at idle with a relatively discharged battery at ~14.5V, but with it disabled - it never dropped under 250W at 13.5, which leads me to believe that the negative terminal's sensor may be at fault.

Greetings all, I've got a real headscratcher of an electrical fault that's driving my dad (and by extension me) nuts in his '15 1.2 (CJZC) Rapid. Basically, the car's started randomly throwing out "12V low" and "Start Stop Error" warnings on start, despite daily drives of at least 20 kilometers of mostly non-city driving (no start/stop, AC on, only DRL). We initially assumed that the car battery may be a dud (a 4 month old Varta AGM that replaced the original EFB one that gave up the ghost) or that the garage hadn't properly recoded the BMS, but using a scan tool shows ruled that out as well. Checking for fault codes yielded nothing as well even though it was on the same engine start a yet another "Start Stop Error" warning was still on the MFD, so at this point I'm open for any suggestions on what the root issue may be and how to resolve it. Well, anything but going through the local Skoda approved garage in the old country, because those lads are beyond horrendous (as in forgot to bleed the brakes on my mom's Octi among other debacles). Not sure if this will be relevant, but: - at idle, the scantool claims a 350-400W alternator load with everything but the DRL's and a dashcam in the infotainment system's USB being turned off - absolutely no fault codes to be found by a VC700 - either as standard ODB2 or when scanning the VW-specific modules - the same scantool claims a steady 14.5V on the control module after engine start, confirmed with a simple 12V plug tester as well Soooo, if anyone has any suggestions or needs extra information to help diagnose this thing, please fire away

Same here and for me it's glaringly(I promise that this is not a bad pun) obvious that majority of those are DIY Xenon/LED swaps and mostly for the dipped beam lights only as the light pattern is too broad for high-beams. As brake checks (as suggested by someone above) can end badly, I'd suggest you just start crawling ever slower until the one behind you gets the hint

Heh,his lasted around a year as well,so it sounds like a normal attrition rate and shouldn't worry about them,lol (I was checking, because I'm apparently a tad spoiled by the "good enough" stock lights in my ride that are going strong into their third year). @Gerrycan Tried to explain that politely (even suggested the street-legal PIAA uprades),mate!No dice.. Hell, I even tried with the "MOT's going to be a problem" tack Btw, isn't it amusing that no one stops to ask him or herself "wait, if LED's are so much better, why new higher end cars still ship with the same halogens and xenons as before? "

If installed correctly it still runs afoul of what the goddamn manufacturer EXPLICITLY states on the packaging, so how you install it is beside the point. Hell, the site you linked says the same - those are for off-road use only, so unless you want to risk a ticket or potential issues during your next MOT - grab something road legal (ie the PIAA Xtreme). How're they on the longevity/durability front, because my dad's on his second Osram Nightbreaker set already?

When the retail packaging is explicitly telling you that it's not for use on public roads it means that a relatively well paid compliance team couldn't find a loophole for these to be road legal... If you want, fit 'em to your daily driver, but bulb swaps like that is why I'm thinking of installing a pair of rear-facing xenons on my Audi XD

Yeah, he checked the alignment earlier this week and the car allegedly passed with flying colours. The tyres are Nokian WR3, 185/60R15 on the stock alloys at 2.4 Front/2.5bar Rear(though the car exhibits the same behaviour with the summer Hankook OEM's it came with as well). I'm pretty sure the car was by design one of the one-trim-sorta-fits-all (though at 12.5k€ he can't exactly complain) that Skoda BG sold off last year to make room for the refreshed MY17's, but I've passed along the suggestion to reset. At least there's a silver lining to all this - it's way better than dealing with the temperamental carburettor of his old car and WAYYYYYYYYYYYYYY better than my father in-law's ****el Edit: Hah, the site's auto-censor rightly redacted the RX7's engine type...

Thanks for the response -but as the car was bought new (4km on the clock) the settings ought to be bone-stock (to go with the no frills whatso-bloody-ever car itself) and there's no such thing as adjustable driver's assist in his MY16/05, which is why I asked pinkpanther about the VCDS option mentioned in passing in the thread he helpfully linked to. Honestly, at this point I'm getting closer and closer to just grabbing a VCDS kit for my dad to let him tweak (or likelier - brick) his car, because it's getting a tad annoying to have me look for answers for his questions (it's not like I didn't shoot him a link to briskoda with the suggestion that he can annoy...I mean ask people here directly XD )

I checked the thread you linked to and I saw a couple of references to changing the steering weight and I wanted to ask - does that mean that one can stiffen the steering over x kph? I'm asking, because my dad asked me to check what may be causing his MY16 Rapid to feel "loose" at highway speeds (110+ kph) almost like the wheel alignment is off (which's already been ruled out as a problem) ?

Ah, thanks for that info - I'll pass it along to dad so he doesn't waste 10$ Btw, I fail to see why Skoda had to use additional modules for window closing, when everything's needed is already there, but then again given some of the weird design/engineering decisions I've encountered in my Audi... Still, thanks again for the warnings!

Yeah, we tried that from the Swing's menu, always resets on next engine start. Thanks for the warning about the Carista app, but I think he's only gonna go for the raising/lowering of the Windows from the key fob, so er.... please tell me those are still good ?

That's what confused me when my dad asked about ^, because as far as I know - MaxiDot is the MFD, but I wanted to check with people here.. As for the other - rats.. I really hoped that was inverting the Start/Stop to "Off by Default/Available on demand"

Hello guys (and gals), I have a couple of quick questions about a couple of the available modifications for the MY16 Rapid... Namely, can someone tell me what does enabling the "Multi-Function Display" actually does (Not sure if it matters, but the car's equipped with a Maxidot/Swing combo) and also if the "Disable Start/Stop" options permanently disable it, or just leave it off by default, but available at the touch of a button?

Rofl, I've got FM on my S7 (and the procedure is the same for the S8), but I'm pretty sure all the Snapdragon-powered Sammies have a "dormant" FM tuner. You might want to give NextRadio a spin Edit: Just gave a look - the S8's also supposed to be FM-capable.. but only the Snapragon variant, so unless you specifically looked for that model (it's primarily found in NA/US), I doubt your wife's got one... but you never know,lol (I stumbled upon my SM-G930U in a shop here in Dublin )

Huh, can you say what phone model you've got, because as long as it's not an iPhone, it should be packing an FM receiver (even if it's "inactivated" by the OEM .. for some reason)?

At least on the left-hand model it's under the glove box, it's easy to spot and remove - just slide the 2 plastic clips and it should just fall in your hand

I hate to resurrect this thread, but I wanted to ask why swapping the radio on a MY16(05/16 with the Swing radio) for a satnav isn't viable?Also, found a cheap and easy way to convince Dad that the climatronic retrofit will be pointless - I just told him to keep the AC on for two weeks and compare the change in mileage he gets - 53MPG with the bugger on vs 56 off on his commute (15 or so km, combined city and fast roads)

Except that the car is a MY16/05, so the satnav is also problematic Honestly, although I like the car, I am somewhat annoyed that he didn't call me BEFORE he got his car, so I could've helped him get something a bit more speccy.. At least tearing out the dash during the summer will be helped along by the only non-bog standard "extra" (I'm amazed that in 2017 rear electric windows are extra,lol) my dad got with the car - a Skoda cooler

Or why didn't he accept my old A4 in favour of keeping his ancient A80/B3... But seriously, it's probably because like the bloke with the heated seats, a lot of people are buying pre-built (or should that be pre-specced?) cars and are paying for it down the line ... That said, if all it takes are some new servos and sensor runs... It's viable, after all this isn't nearly as horrifying as a full engine rebuild on a german v6

Hello, long time reader, first time poster (well,sorta.. I stumbled upon this site last year when my dad announced that he was getting himself a Skoda last year) I finally got around to having a spin in it and frankly,I'm impressed at how decent a car they've managed to make for 12500-ish Euros (25000 Bulgarian Leva thanks to Skoda's X-mas promo in the old country for a 90hp Rapid MY16 ), but it has room for improvement - especially with the air conditioning, which has the old school "3 knob" setup. So I was wondering - I've seen people retrofit a climatronic in place of a normal AC panel in Fabias, but has anyone seen it done in a Rapid and if it's possible or not?