KitsonRis

Car had the MoT test last week and there were two advisoraries for bushes being worn. I want to get this sorted as there is also a knocking noise from the front and it could be related to this. The items are: * "Anti-roll bar rubber bush deteriorated but not resulting in excessive movement (both sides front)" * "Trailing arm rubber bush deteriorated but not resulting in excessive movement (both rear axle bushes)" I have a quote from the garage to do this and supply parts, mainly as I hate doing bushes! But thought about fitting Powerflex ones instead. Looked on their website and a bit confused to what ones and want some clarification before I buy them. POWERFLE WEBSITE I am going to guess it is item 3 and 5 that I need in their diagram. But there appears to be two options for each bush. The rear ones are two sizes - 72.5mm (PFR85-415) and 69.0mm (PFR85-610). The front ones on their cataloge don't state sizes (PFF85-411-21 or PFF85-411-23). Does anyone know which ones I will need?

Not much has happened since the last update. I have just been using it and keeping on top of it all really. The biggest thing is that I got the exhaust sorted out. Got a centre and rear sections made by Infinity Exhausts. Second time I have used them and will be using them again. Their service is great. As it is all custom made you say what sound/noise level you want and how you want it to look and they make it there and then for you. I didn't want anything too loud, it is just louder and a bit more grumbly than standard, and I don't think many people will notice the difference when sat in the car. But the look of the back end is much better now the exhuast cut out has something in it. Replaced my grill badge: Gave the car a very good clean this weekend, made the most of the good weather. I use the Autoglym range. I am not a "detailing" kind of person tbh, I would rather use the car! But Ihave got into the habit of having a clean car. Their Rapid Aqua Wax is pretty good stuff - easy to use and gives a really good finish. And if used often it builds up a nice layer which helps to keep the car clean and make it easier to wash. So this is all the stuff I used on Saturday: Couldn't get a good picture of the finished product as the sun was really in the way, but this is the best picture I have: I have also made a purchase....not quite Skoda related but definately car related. I sold my Clio trak car as I was getting a bit fed up f maintaining a modified car that got some serious abuse, plus the next stage for it was an engine rebuild with cams and throttle bodies which I couldn't justify that expense. Shame. So I was tempted ny my friend to by his second car as he didn't use it much.... Its a very good condition E34 535i. Just needs a few finishing touches here and there and then my mark putting on it. This was also the Skoda's fault as I got used to driving a nice comfortable car when I bought the Skoda and getting in the Clio was starting to get a little tiresome.

Painted the rear caliper. Before: After: Much better!! Makes me want to go around all the brakes and give them a spruce up. Might do that if I get a spare weekend, which are becoming rarer for me! Noticed I have a small leak from the sump plug. Bit annoying as the oil is less than 1000k old! Not sure I can swap the plug without losing too much oil, as I sort of want to check why it is leaking.

So a lot has happened since the last update....the car is now working!! Did have problems with it once it was working as I had this noise that I couldn't figure what it as coming from. Coming from the drivers side of the engine bay and got worse under load. Sounding a bit like pinking/knocking so that got me worried as that could suggest timing is out. But could have been a faulty exhaust gasket. After lying under the car in the pouring rain I got fed up and took it to the local VAG specalist in Stonehouse (A1 Motor Services) as the next tool I was going to use was a match and a can of petrol, I really had enough! They looked over it, complimented on the work that was done, checked the timing and found it was the turbo to manifold joint wasn't fully done up whoops. They did it up, re-gassed the air con and it has been flawless ever since. Even drives better than it did before the engine swap! So I have started to do some proper tinkering on it. Bought some Skoda green caliper paint to paint the random silver non-vRS rear caliper I have. When that turns up I will crack on with that job. Also tidied up the front slam pannel as some how it had a lot of surface rust on. Rubbed it back and painted a few coats of hammerite on with another smoothing down between each coat. It looks miles better and not like it has been neglected Before: After: Booked in for a new centre and rear sections for the exhaust at Infinity Exhausts. All custom made too and I can choose the tip choice; just going to have a twin tip to fit into the umper cut out. They are good guys there, they made my track Clio's exhaust and I was very impressed with that. Next job is to sort the slight surface rust/discolouration in front of the back wheels on the sill line before that develops into something worse!

Did not think of removing the aux belt for a quick drive up the drive! Will do that tomorrow. It was more of how the internals work, as does it work and need lubricating etc even if off. More searching has has pointed to turbo to exhaust gasket, possibly pinking from not quite 100% timing. Tried to check all the connections that were removed, will give another check tomorrow

So it turns out this might not be turbo noise. Just had a good tinker with it and it sounds a bit more like an auxiliary driven something. It does make the noise all the time but very quiet in tick over. The only thing I haven't done since the engine swap is get the air con re-gassed. How does the air con pump work as the belt is still driving it, but does the pump still work when it isn't on? I did think it could be as thee is no fluid/gas it isn't being lubricated.

If it's not engine change related I would be happy! I want to forget that saga. Sure it's just the drivers door come to think of it. Ahhh the lights warning beep has stopped thinking of it when the lights are on with the door open. I will check/replace the door micro switch. Have tried a search watch on here but I wasn't looking at the micro switch term. Will do that later when I am at home.

Ok so I had a poke about and I now have figure out when the doors lock. If if you unlock the car and do not put the keys in the ignition and start it/turn it on then the doors will re-lock after 30seconds. You can open and shut a door after unlocking and they will lock. I was locked inside the car this morning as I didn't start it and the doors locked but the door lock button on the drivers door wouldn't work and if you pulled the door handle to unlock the doors when you released the handle the lock didn't stay unlocked and the little pin shot back into the door (more of a mechanical thing that is and not electronic). Luckily I had the keys on me and could remotely unlock the car. I remember in the Mk1 Clio's you could change the auto unlock thing by holding down the door lock button behind the gear stick. Tried this on the Skoda and it doesn't do anything.

Got the replacement engine back in the car and its all working fine. Have done 430 miles in it. I swapped the turbo from the broken engine as it has less miles than the replacement engine and I knew it worked properly. Last night I had a raft of error codes come up, most I think were old ones and related to the new temp sensor I put in being faulty and the timing going wrong when the cam belt tensioner failed. I got the 17705 "Pressure drop between turbo and throttle valve" error code. I have cleared all codes and drove it today and none were thrown. But since fitting the replacement engine with the original turbo, under acceleration the turbo makes a fluttering/two tone woosh. The harder you accelerate the louder the noise. Car pulls fine, averaged 42mpg over the 430miles, cruises fine, idles fine (now after replacement tmp sensor), not loud. I am not sure the turbo never used to make that kind of noise and was monotone. I have not had a chance to look at the pipe work yet being away from home with work now until the weekend.

Thanks for the help. I just dont remember it doing this before the engine swap/taking the battery out.

Hmmm more investigation is needed then. Do have a spare set of keys. I never leave keys in the car anyway but more worried if someone else does without knowing.

Just found out they don't lock if you drive the car, only when the car is opened and not moved.

After chaning the engine in the vRS my doors now keep locking - unlock them and wait a bit they will all lock on their own. Has removng the battery etc reverted it to a setting where this auto lock happens? If so how do I change it? I can see myself locking the key inside.....

Brilliant thanks. I will have another look with that diagram I don't have that undertray though, can't be too hard to source one

Bit of a slow progress due to working away from home in the week and then being away n the weekends. However took the other day off with my step dad and dropped the new engine back in. Bolted it all up and then got the fluids and that and fired it up. Started second time, most likely due to lack of fuel pressure. But it run very smooth and is a lot quieter than the old engine. My brother thinks it runs better than the old one. Just needs to be used to get it all working fine as the donor car hadn't been used in 9 months. I know it isn't an exact science but wonder what the fuel consumption is like compared to the old engine, as surely a better engine will be better on fuel??? So the engine has had new: Cambelt, water pump and tensioner AUX tensioner and belt Rocker cover gasket Clutch kit Oil pick up pipe Coolant, power steering fluid, engine oil and filter Air and pollen filter Few breather and coolant pipes when it is working and running well I am goin g to replace plugs and coil packs as piece of mind Was missing a few parts, like the speedo drive and the air con doesn't work, but this doesn't stop the car from working. Speedo drive did turn up this morning so I fitted that. Noticed I have a coolant leak, not ideal. Seems to be coming from THIS so I have ordered one and hoping it arrives before the weekend. Then it is all good to go!! Shame about the weather tonight as it really needs a clean as I was avoiding doing it so it made me want to get it fixed. Will be driving it close to home to start with just in case. So hopefully next month I can start doing the things I wanted to do to it before I had to change the engine.

Just put the bumper back on the car and there is one piece or arch liner I am struggling to get back to fit. I don't remeber un-bolting it (was a few weeks ago I took the bumper off) and I can't see where it needs to be re-attached. It flaps about quite a bit and I am sure if I don't do anything to it will just get damaged. The piece of trim is the one shown in the picture below - it is on the driver's side, stayed on the car when the bumper was removed and it sort of behind the flat intercooler pipe this (engine bay side). It has a tab like thing on the front but can't see where that needs to go. Sorry it isn't the best picture in the world, but I am led in the middle of the car, head againt bumper and pointing out to the driver's wheel (front of the car is on the left hand side of the image). I am tempyed to put some small holes in it and cable tie it to the bumper and arch liner. Should there also be an under tray thing that covers the sump? As I never had one.

Brilliant. The seller said there was three variants and couldn't confirm. I will get this then.

I am missing the speedo drive connector, somehow it has got lost when doing an engine change. I have found this on eBay, can anyone confirm the right part number 191919149E https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/272048281893 for a Mk1 vRS

Will have a look at this when the engine goes back in. Once its working I will change the plugs and coil packs anyway, just want to get it sorted first. Progress coming along nicely, havent taken many photos as I just wanted to make th emost of the time. New engine was picked up Monday. Wanted to get a few things done on it first while it was out and easy access. * Changed the rocker cover gasket - the front of the engine was quite minging so hoping it was rocker cover gasket * Changed the oil pick up pipe, the old one was a bit tired looking so hopefully a new one will be better Took the rocker cover off and the oil was a bit sludgey....the car hadn't been used in 9 months so thought it was just condensation and not the head going. Took the sump off and the oil in there was very clean, used but still clean and no sludge. Picked up a new Sachs cluth kit, 52% discount code from GSF, had to be done! New cam belt kit bought. I bought a new AUX tensioner and belt for my old engine a week before it went so I have taken that off and need to fit. Hope to get this all done Sunday afternoon as I am taking my Clio on a track day tomorrow. Annoyingly I am working away most of next week and might be working away for a few months so progress may halt a bit, which isn't ideal as I got used to driving a sensible car every day and not a track toy!

I did not know this, what was it for? There are three types of coil packs on the car - a Bosch one, two "cheaper" looking ones and an un-branded one similar to the Bosch one. The "cheap" looking one is the one that broke. Although all 4 didn't have any retaining bolts in them and were just push fitted. Drives my OCD mad that they are all different! Will check about the recall.

Just read the Haynes manual and it says to remove the engine out the bottom of the car. Is there a way to lift the engine out? We don't have a car lift at home, just an engine crane.

Confirmed that the engine in my car needs changing after the cam belt went (didn't actually snap but the tensioner failed and the pistons have hit the valves). Removing the engine tomorrow. Not the first time me and my step dad have removed an engine, but first one of this type. So are there any hints, tricks or anything we need to consider when doing it? Want to try hand have as much info as we can before we start so we don't waste time. Got a Haynes Manual so hoping that will be useful.

Took some more parts off the car tonight to reduce some jobs to tomorrow, like remove the coil packs, to one fell apart in my hand! That is one more thing to add to my shopping list. Glad this did happen as it was quite burnt and that so wasn't giving a good spark. Poked a camera down the spark plug holes to see if there was any damage, as I could have got away with just re-doing the timing and was presented with this..... That was on all four pistons, so the timing was well out. Damn. So that is an engine swap. Job for tomorrow

Spent abit of time labelling pipes and wires tonight, blimey it is a busy and complex engine to what I am used to! Wanted to remove the inlet manifold but needed to take lots off and the drain bucket we have at home is full of coolant for some reason. Wanted to use this to drain my coolant. Looked behind the cam belt cover for the first time, couldn't remove it as I needed to remove what turned out to be a coolant pipe that blocked it but had nowhere to drain the coolant, and the belt is still on the top pulley and under tension. I was expecting it to be either shreaded and a mess behind there. Cant see the tensioner though. But this doesn't mean it didn't slip and ruin the valves that way. Will have a better look Monday when I have a day off work. Would look this weekend but I am away. Also thought about putting the OBD reader on it to see if any errors were thrown, however my step dad took the battery to put in his E36 BMW track car as that is playing up.

Haven't taken the head off no, car was recovered and left on the driveway. I am not in a position to start replacing valves and pistons at home, or what I should at my step dad won't help me do that! He wants it fixed asap to make room on the driveway which is fair enough. The AA man tried to turn it over and there was nothing, starter motor making a noise and the engine wasn't turning over properly and a slightly "popping" noise that didn't tally up to the starter motor turning over with no attempt to kick into life. I did wonder why he did this as if it wasn't damaged it would be now?? car won't be tuned up, just kept standard. Only after a remap for low down grunt and not fussed if it makes power gains. But thanks for that pointer on the gear box. All this is good, some things I didn't think of. Just want a list of things so when I get a replacement engine I know what I need to do