RoyF280

Sold

Hi there Hen64. Had mine listed for £20k initially, but no calls. I think if I'd sold it back in April when I'd originally planned to I would've been fine. However I think the Ukraine war, gas prices and cost of living has slowed the market now and 2nd hand cars have now taken a plunge. Or at least a pause... Cazoo offered £17625 without viewing and would probably have pushed me down after seeing a few stone chips. After a bit of back and forth with the original dealer, they settled on £17500. Book value (if you believe such nonsense) suggested mid £15k. I bought it for £28k brand new, already £6k off list price so I don't think circa £10k loss over 6.5 yrs is too bad. Loved the car and every minute of driving it.

Hi all, After selling my Superb 280 estate I now have no use for the above. These are three high quality items from Travall and allow the boot area to safely house your pooch, keeping it safely separated from both the main cabin and the other half off your luggage area. The Dog guard sits above the rear seat, preventing unwanted items (or hounds) from making their way into the cabin. The divider splits the boot in half and the tailgate prevents the dog from jumping out when the boot is opened. Like new with original box. Specs here: https://www.travall.co.uk/skoda/superb-estate-2015--/safety-pack-tdg1495-tdg1495d and https://www.travall.co.uk/tailgates/travallr-tailgate-ttg1001 Original price was £330, now £370 from Travall. Will accept £150. Collection from Basingstoke. Delivery to UK addresses possible, postage to be agreed. PM me for any more details..

Sold, back to the original supplying dealer

Hi guys and gals, Long time user and occasional contributor (I wrote a detailed dashcam installation a few years back) Anyway, it's time for the Superb to go. It's in great condition and has served us really well. Advert here on Autotrader with plenty of pics and a short video: https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202207318314079 56k miles and looking for £18.5k - one of the cheapest 280's on Autotrader at the moment, given it's an early MK3 model on a 66 plate. Full main dealer service history. Will be serviced and MoT'ed this week. Current All-in service plan (incl servicing/warranty/MoT/breakdown etc) can be extended if new owner wants it. Any questions, ping me a PM, or contact through Autotrader. Roy

Hi all, After much procrastinating I collected a Superb 280 Sportline Estate at the end of January. I was toying with getting a new Skoda Superb and found the posts on this forum really valuable. I've been on here quite regularly as a guest, reading your experiences, hints and tips and am very thankful for all the useful info. I've only just registered an account so by way of giving something back here are some details of a 2-channel dashcam I've just fitted to my Superb. Hope this helps anyone considering a similar install. I decided I wanted a good quality but discrete 2-channel dashcam system recording front and rear simultaneously and ideally one which would do a little stealth recording whilst parked and switched off. I wasn't worried about a built-in screen as I'd take videos off with a smartphone or simply pull the memory card out when necessary. I've tinkered with car audio in the past and am not afraid of a little wiring if required, but I wouldn't call myself an expert by any means. Enthusiastic amateur if you will... I first looked at the Nextbase Duo (https://www.nextbase.co.uk/dashcams/in-car-cam-duo/) which has a screen, but decided against it due to the fact the Superb estate is such a long beastie, I doubt it would see much out of the rear window. In addition the front and rear cameras do not pivot up and down so once you've set the front angle best to see the road ahead, some people had found the rear camera recording more of the headlining or interior. It was quite a sizable thing and the inclusion of screen made me think I'd feel nervous about leaving it in the car. I decided against. Blackvue models looked good, in particular the DR650S (http://blackvuehd.co.uk/product/blackvue-dr650gw-hd-2ch-2) however for "parking-mode" recording it needed an additional "Power magic" adaptor thing, or a very expensive battery pack which added additional cost and complexity. Definitely looked the best in terms of aftersales support though. After much research I settled on one from Lukas/Qvia. A relatively unknown company I found initally, with very few reviews on the web, but with most of these things being made in China, Taiwan, South Korea etc, being from the latter didn't particularly concern me if there was a knowledgeable UK distributor. TTW were the guys and I found the one I wanted here: https://lukashd.co.uk/product/qvia-ar790-wd-2ch-dash-camera/ I chose the snappily named Qvia AR790-WD. It looked very similar to the Blackvue above, being quite small and with no screen included. It came with a very small front and rear camera and the inclusion of a super-capacitor (rather than a battery) meant it would last better in hot sun / cold weather and because all the power "smarts" were built in, no additional battery packs or adaptors were required. Once fitted, the super-cap charges up and holds some current and the camera has a built-in fail-safe setting to shut down if it detects the car's battery voltage drops below a certain level. The cameras can then be set to record when motion is detected front or rear, or to continually record on a kind of timelapse mode. So far I've opted for the former and it's worked well. Fortunately the only thing it's picked up so far are cars coming and going and the odd late-night wheelie bin deployment by myself and the neighbours. Anyway, on to the install. You can see enough pics of the camera itself at the lukashd link above, so here's how it went for me: First of all, the installation instructions provided are not that great. Enough to give you an idea, but given the breadth of cars out there, clearly not enough for your average novice in a specific vehicle. Proceed with caution and if you're not comfortable pulling bits of trim off your shiny car, get a friend to help or professional to do it for you. The instructions said to mount the front camera first and run the wires behind the headlining. This dashcam has two wires - one to supply power and one to connect the rear dashcam. Both cables would be run across the headlining to the passenger side of the car. The power cable would run down the A-pillar to the fuse box behind the glove compartment and the rear-camera cable would stay at the headlining level, running to the rear of the car. Fortunately the front lip of the Superb's headlining had a nice recess into which cables can be easily tucked (it's like the expect them all to be used as taxis...) What you see behind the rear view mirror - i.e. not very much: (and the eagle-eyed of you will see I took this picture after I'd finished as you can see the rear camera in the mirror) Next task was the remove the front left A-pillar trim. Not complicated, I had some cheap trim removal tools but this one was easy enough to prise away with fingers. Pull outwards away from the pillar at the top edge and continue pulling away from the pillar down the windscreen side. Eventually you can pull upwards slightly away from the dash and it should come free. Behind you can see the airbag and some other wiring. I chose to run the power cable above all this keeping well away from the airbag: Power cable secured with some cable-ties: (I wanted to avoid anything rattling around after all the trim was back in place.) Cable tucked down through the same hole through the foam insulation. Next, open the passenger door and remove the side dashboard trim. No screws, just find a leading edge you can get a trim removal tool under and prise outwards. Note: the trailing cable is still laying ready to be tucked down through the foam insulation at this point (previous pic). Close up of the side panel removed. Get your hand in there and fish out that power cable poking through the foam insulation: Again, once fished through I decided to cable tie to something solid in order to prevent rattles: At this point I removed the glove box, which the manual explains fairly well and I see others have covered in other articles. What comes next depends upon your specific vehicle and the fuse you have. This dashcam requires a permanent 12v supply and a ignition or "accessory" fed supply, along with an earth connection. The dashcam came ready for hardwiring, but I understand a cigarette lighter kit was an option. I opted to use 19x19mm piggy back fuses: https://lukashd.co.uk/product/fuse-holder-adapter-ato-19-x19-mm/ but you might prefer using the mini 11x16mm fuses https://lukashd.co.uk/product/fuse-holder-adapter-mini-111-x16-mm/ The idea with these is that they're a simple way to extend an existing circuit. They come with two slots for fuses - one for the original circuit and one for your new added dashcam circuit. You remove an existing fuse, place the removed fuse into the unoccupied piggy-back holder fuse slot, ensure your 10A dashcam fuse is seated in the other slot and then press the adaptor into the position you removed your vehicle fuse from. I used a tester to find the 12v and accessory feeds, with a little trial and error turning the ignition on and off. Fuse 38 (Trailer electrical socket) was live with the ignition on and Fuse 48 (Blind Spot detection) was a permanent 12v. This is what I ended up with: (Fuse 38 is the top piggy back and Fuse 48 the bottom one) In my case both fuse positions were empty - no fuses present as I have neither of those options on my car. So I had to buy another couple of 10A fuses to complete the circuits. The ground wire was easy to attach, but I didn't take a picture of it. There's a convenient earth screw position just under the glove box to the left hand side. Easy to find. With wires in place it was on to running the cable to the rear camera; by far the most time consuming part of the job. I didn't bother taking pictures of tucking the cable into the headlining across the front left passenger door and rear left passenger door, as it was fairly trivial to feed the cable behind. Just remove a little of the headlining tuck the cable behind and replace. It's very tight around the b-pillar, but again with a bit of help from the trim removal tool, it wasn't too hard. Once you get the cable to the C-pillar that's where the fun starts. In a saloon I guess you have it easy and run straight across the rear headlining. However in the estate (and hatchbacks as well I guess) you get the quandary of how to get the cable through to the rear window properly. Ideally you don't want a loose cable spanning the gap between the headlining and the boot, especially when the hatch opens and closes. This is the cable tucked just into the headlining, optimistically thinking there'd be some easy way to go from here to the boot lid. Nope. The only way to go is through the c-pillar, out through the connecting boot grommets and up into the tailgate. So C-pillar trim needs to come off and cable threaded through into where that top grommet meets the left side of the car. Here's the C-pillar with the trim removed (comes off much like the A-pillar one). The cable needs to come down from the headlining into here: Enter stubby oaf-like finger to tell you where to run the cable. I chose the C-pillar to hold all the surplus cable. Don't do what I did and thread it all through to the tailgate, only to find you there's no room for all the surplus up there. Don't pull it all through to the tailgate like I did, only to have to pull most of it back through again... This was not fun. With one hand poking the cable up through the c-pillar, somehow you have to feed it to the hole where that rubber grommet was. I opted for cable ties and insulating tape. If you can get the cable ties through to your cable, tape the insulating tape to the cable (carefully protecting the metal plug on the end) and pull it carefully through the hole: Now we're on one side of the grommet ducting thing. The cable needs to go through that and there isn't much room in there. Enter the cable-ties again to pull the wire through: Note: those grey plastic bits hold the rubber grommet ends tight to the body panels. They are easy to get off and a right pain to get back on again - especially if you have chubby fingers like me. Deploy the missus or someone with small fingers to help. Now the cable's ready to be threaded into the boot lid. My worst fears - the whole boot interior trim has to come off. Lower section has to come off first, then the upper section around the glass. First of all, pop out the electric boot release button (if you have one) and the two interior lights. Remove the plugs from all three of them and poke the wiring back into the holes inside the boot lid. The lower interior trim section just pulls free now - again like before pop out one section (I started near the very bottom of the boot lid) and work your way carefully around, popping out the trim panel with a trim removal tool. The clips are much harder than the interior trim and I was quite worried about damaging the panels. Everything went OK for me, but go careful! Bottom panel removed: One the lower panel is removed, you can start on the upper panel around the glass. This time I started around the sides near the gas struts. Again, level and pop them out carefully working your way up each side first, then across the top. Once free the whole lot pulls downwards away from the raised boot lid. The upper panel removed and laying in the boot: (just so you can see all the clips) With both trim panels removed, the top edge of the boot lid looked like this: You can see the cable hanging out from the rubber grommet. Use the cable-ties again, threading one through from the left hole in the boot lid above to the grommet hole. Tape the camera cable to the cable tie again and pull through. This whole part took me a couple of hours to do tidily and safely but it was worth it. The camera can then be mounted where you choose on the rear window and the cables will be tucked safely out of harm's way. I wrapped the cable in a little extra insulating tape to protect it where it passes under the rear trim. Up to you. Test the camera, make sure everything works OK then refit all your trim panels. Here's the rear cam. There's a little raising of the interior boot lid panel, which I guess could be solved by cutting a small notch into it. However it doesn't bother me that much. The rear camera cable would've been better with a right-angle plug in my opinion, but again, not the end of the world. Hope this helps. Any questions, feel free! Roy.