Fio

There is one genuine rubber left on my exhaust and it is in better condition than the cheap ones after 18 years. I have repaired the broken one again with a heavy duty cable tie .Much more economical!

Hi J4ck, as Ken said. I got mine at a local independent car part dealer and they sourced me some for a few quid each. As back up I got some from eurocarparts too. Hope that helps. I couldnt find any genuine ones though, which I believe are much higher quality rubber. Since my original post which was a year ago, the replacement rubber has perished and snapped again allready! So buy at least two rubbers if its the cheapo ones

Perhaps but the water pump has done 75000 miles, previous owner only changed cam belt and tensioner, so it does seem the likely culprit.

Update - Cause of the rattle noise has been confirmed by the mechanic to be the water pump failing. Its now louder than in the video I posted earlier in the topic, and the mechanic said it is very close to seizing So its off the road for now! But fixable

Thanks Ricardo, I have tried listening with a medium screwdriver at points that it can reach, I'm nervous to poke around the spinning drive belt . so far I can only hear the noise through the screwdriver at the top motor mount on the cambelt side... But I'm not sure if that is just resonating through from somewhere else. Will probably be getting a second opinion from another mech, will post update if I do find the cause. Thanks.

Hello, My Felicia 1.6 has developed a rumbling noise that has appeared over the last month from the drive belt side of the engine. Rather than trying to explain the noise I am posting two video links. The first is from last July and the second from a few days ago, and you can hear the extra noise in the second video. I've recently had a new PAS pump fitted because it was leaking, but this noise was happening before the pump was fitted (I thought maybe because the pump was leaking maybe the bearing was making noise...) and is no different after fitting. the noise only appears once the engine is warm. I've had it looked at by the mechanic who fitted the pump but he assured me everything is "tight" and nothing to worry about. The car drives ok and there isn't any noticeable loss of power etc, just an annoying noise! Any thoughts or ideas would be greatly appreciated

Hi, I cant add much more, but as an owner of the aee VW engine I tend to agree with the comments here. There is a definite sweet spot around 3000 rpm, where the car does feel nippy. However in the lower and upper rpm on normal driving conditions you can feel the power of the engine working its way up to speed slower, I'm guessing this is because of the weight and gearbox as people are saying here. If you give it some welly and get the gear changes right it does feel nice and average . With the stock steelys and brakes on the felly I wouldn't personally feel comfortable with too much more power anyway. Its been reliable in the sense that it hasn't broken down and runs quite smoothly at 75000 miles, but the engine isn't without issues such as oil leaks. it doesn't use oil as quick as the other vw engine I've owned, with a small top up in 4000 miles, and thats with the leaks... Its been serviced yearly with oil changes so maybe this one isn't deteriorating as quickly but it does use oil, even if it is a small amount. Fuel consumption isn't the best, a 200 mile round trip, of mixed town, motorway and b-roads is just under half a tank-£20 (exhaust is slightly blowing at the connecting sleeve). I cant compare it to the Skoda engine as I havnt owned one But would assume fuel consumption would be lower than this. Personally I like the whole setup as a daily drive, and will keep driving it

Hey, If your still looking at this bike- So I work at Halfords and built up a canzo for display yesterday. It seems like alot of bike for the money. I've got a 2016 voodoo hoodoo and its held up well with mainly singletrack/trails riding, but have been wanting something with a bit more shock travel, and to move on to a full sus. The new canzo comes with a bolt through air raidon fork, tapered steerer, with black stanchions, rear suntour shock (again all black) which allthough is relatively low spec in comparison to some rockshock/fox etc, are quite a nice setup for a grand. Also the deore 1x11 is a treat. Doesn't come with a dropper post but the frame is compatible with an internal dropper. All the hardware on the frame joints looks pretty good quality. Now the brakes are Clarks hydraulic... On previous bikes I've worked on the Clarks brakes have been shocking, however these 2018 brakes look very similar to Shimano m355 like on my Hoodoo, which are great. Cant say what the performance of these brakes are like as I only rode around the shop floor, but they seem very adequate. now the frame design is meant to be by Joe Murray from kona, but without testing the bike properly I would be able to say how smooth it is through the rough stuff, but personally as someone wanting a first full sus, moving from hardtail, its on my wish list. hope that helps

@nu99et18 thanks mate

As you can see from the picture I'm a bit ham fisted with my Allen keys and managed to snap one of my rocker cover bolts (1.6 mpi). Don't ask why I did it, all I can say is I've learnt from my mistake ... Now it seems the easy part was getting the remains out of the block, which involved popping the rocker cover off and using thin nosed plyers to ease it out (luckily it wasn't sheared flush so I had something to grip), now the hard bit, finding a new bolt!!! does anyone have a part number for this bolt, or know if they are still available?? I'm going to vw/skoda dealer tomorrow to try my luck, and there's a few more local scrapyards I'm yet to visit but so far I've had no luck... Many thanks in advance.

@KenONeill, ok thanks!

Hi, I want to replace my front pads and discs (2000 1.6 felicia) because they are at the end of their life and am looking for some recommendations. Reason I'm asking is because I was reeled in by a Eurocarparts 50% off on brake parts, and ended up buying Eicher pads and discs..... I wont be fitting these parts because of awful reviews of squealing and warping issues and don't want to risk bad brake parts getting a refund as soon as they arrive anyway there are two brands I'm looking at for discs; Pagid and Brembo. And for pads; Pagid. Has anyone used these brands and are they a reliable replacement? Also when choosing pagid pads for example, there are two types, one for Lucas system, and one for Girling system. Does anyone know what one to choose for year 2000 1.6? Thanks!

In case you have not checked your exhaust rubbers! My Felicia has done 73000 miles (17 years old). I had a rare occasion where 3 passengers were present in my car, so the rear was obviously much lower than when its just me. I heard a terrible scraping vibrating noise, upon inspection you can see the exhaust rubber to the front of the rear silencer is hanging by a thread! Resulting in vibrations on the exhaust and rear axle all three rubbers are hard and perished, so if you want to replace yours do all three. The two at the front of the rear silencer are slightly different to the one at the rear. its necessary to slightly bend the retaining clips to remove them with a screwdriver (be careful not to snap it). I simply bent them back with pliers to ensure a tight refitting. In the picture you can see the old rubbers, the rear one is cracking with age so I replaced as a precaution! So if you have not checked under your car for a while, have a quick look, seeing as all fellys are old now Hopefully these pictures are useful for reference.

Thanks guys, the engine mounts do look original and old to be fair. Nice video too. You've all been a great help, awesome forum! Cheers!

@KenONeill ill give the crankcase breather a clean too thanks, I've managed to locate two Allen bolts, is that all that holds it in place? With the ht leads, they aren't especially stiff, but the metal parts that clip on the spark plugs are quite crusty, they are pretty inexpensive so will try that on pay day. I've allready changed the dizzy cap and rotor arm, plugs are quite new too., all this made some improvement. I've posted this video where you can see the engine shaking a bit, might sound stupid but I'm not sure if its normal or if its a misfire (my last car misfired so severely at idle it looked like it would jump out of the car!) p.s sorry for hijacking this thread!