Eltezz

I would agree with Ken, no point in getting the gearbox out of a car with your mileage and not changing the clutch. Change everything in there and be done with it.

I have owned the car for 2 1/2 years, and it is nearly five years old.

Mine does it, mainly when cold. Start up - rattle, rattle - depress clutch - silence. Done it since I had it. I believe it is common to these cars and is a gearbox issue, nothing to do with the clutch. Just a simple gearbox design, made for a price... I don't notice it once it has warmed up.

I did mine two years ago. I studied the comments available at the time and it was obvious that you needed to be careful removing the rubber boots. I decided not to use any kind of tools to get them off. I ran the car for a short while and then let it cool down enough to be able to work on it. After unbolting the coils I simply started pulling and twisting but without appyling too much force. I had to continue this for a good 30 seconds or so with each boot but they eventually let go and came off in one piece. I didn't bother putting anything on the plugs or boots, just reassembled everything. I figure I probably won't own the car when the plugs need changing again...

Only the spark plug tip will (possibly) get to 800°C . The threaded part in the head will be closer to the water jacket temperature, so much cooler than 200°C for the silicone grease...

Really? What's under the bonnet then? Two gnomes and a very small Shetland pony, haha. Only joking...

This is probably no help but I have just swapped my wheels/tyres around and used these jacking points to place the axle stands. I noticed both front bungs were fitted but none were in place on either rear point. As these are quite a tight fit it makes me wonder if they are not fitted as standard to the rear? Just a thought...

Interesting. I will heed that advice and have a look at mine. Amazing how brake drums have been around since before the dinosaurs but VAG can’t make them work but even British Leyland could...

Mine does this whenever it rains or I drive through standing puddles, etc. I drove to the airport on business recently and it was tipping it down. i parked in the multi storey and returned four day later. The brakes were nicely seized. My preferred method is to briefly reverse a few inches if you can and this seems to free them up easier. I personally believe the problem stems from brake shoes with a high ferrous metal content and the drum and shoe simply rust together after any water gets in there. High humidity seems to do it as well. You can hear the rear drums making a metal on metal grind for a mile or so until braking removes the surface rust. Irritating but harmless in my opinion and dismantling the drums to perform a ‘scrape and clean’ is a waste of time as the next time they get wet it will happen again. If you can find better quality brake shoes than the OEM fitment that may be a solution...

Any pics or info on your DAB setup? Like you I have given up on the standard aerial system, complete rubbish.

Spot on! Just finally read my Citigo manual. It’s the low fuel light for the natural gas tank. Actually has CNG in tiny letters underneath it. Well done, forum!

Too many people are missing the point. Both the OP and myself are referring to the barely visible fuel symbol next to the lit one, NOT the fuel filler symbol...

Can’t be as simple as left / right hand drive can it?

Similar to you, I use the car almost exclusively to get to work and back. This is 4.5 miles each way. Obviously cold start both ends. The engine doesn't reach 90deg until roughly 2.5 miles into the trip. I doubt the oil barely warms up at all. Under this regime I have two figures for you, the PID computer value and my full tank to full tank real value. In summer PID value is around 48-51 with a real value of 45-48. In winter the PID value is always around 44 with a real value of 41. These are ‘best case’ values driving with an eye on consumption. If I drive more quickly, hold revs longer, etc., those figures will fall by a couple of mpg. I have not problem getting 58-60mpg on a motorway run.

This may be of help. There are other threads if you search on “Aerial “. A bad earth within the aerial system could cause this problem as well.