Johnfc2017

That is an amazing site, but couldn't see this monster piece of plastic on there. I think it's part of the front panel that hinges when you maintain the engine, but there is no left side to clip it to. It looks like it fell clean through the noise filter plastic trim bit. The front bumper is split in much the same way as the rear bumper was when I bought it, but it's not something I considered looking at when I bought the car. I suspect the damage was done when the previous owner ran over the Skoda rep that sold the car to him 🤣

Carista reported 06342 - Manufacturer specific code. Whatever that means?

Okay, got the car back so I could run diagnostics and two faults: P0030 (the garage must have read the code too quickly) comes up on basic ODB2 and 06342 comes up on Engine on my Carista. I reset them both and the check engine light went away but the codes are still showing up.

Hi, My parent's Skoda Fabia is in the garage after a service and MOT, the car had the o2 sensor replaced because I had diagnosed that as a possible issue and they carried on driving it so it needed a new cat. After replacement, the car showed no errors and passed the emissions test with flying colours and then the engine light came back on and diagnostics came back with P0300. The garage is reputable, we take all our cars there but the garage owner called me completely stumped because they tested the wiring and the sensor and traced all the wires to the ECU, reset the ECU with their fancy and expensive scanner yet this car keeps returning the same fault. So does anyone have any idea what would be the problem? The garage think they should take it to Skoda to see if the ECU needs a software update or something. It's a 2010 Skoda Fabia Mk2 trim level 3, one of those TSI 1.2L engines.

Hi, I'm having a strange day. There was this noise that sounded like my roof bars had come loose, then I had a report from a cyclist that a piece of metal was hanging down under my car and when he passed me he said it was my exhaust. I pulled over and looked and couldn't see an errant exhaust pipe. I drove to my customer with this terrible noise from under the car and then noticed this plastic trim piece attached one side to the condenser had come away at the other end, but no obvious place for it to secure. I've shoved it up with a bungie cord until I can find out what to do next. So, what is this part's proper name and how does it secure to the condenser or to something else in the car? There is a hole in the plastic but no obvious place it attaches to. I'm suspecting something wasn't replaced after it's last service and it has vibrated loose. Best, John

Hi, Previously, I had an issue with the door loom where the car was going crazy and trying to start itself, so I bought a loom repair kit and soldered new wires onto the loom. Today, after a spate of heavy rain the car is back to it's old tricks only this time after pulling the driver's door connector out, the car carries on misbehaving. I noticed on the loom side that a couple of the terminals are corroded, so water has got in there. How easy is it to get to from the car side?

Unfortunately, since 9th March, a harsh wind caught the door and smashed the connector, so I ordered a replacement connector and wires. Today I jointed every wire to find that the plastic piece in the rubber bushing has broken so it won't stay together. I reconnected the battery and I can now move the passenger and driver mirrors, lock and unlock the car and open the passenger window but I suspect the motor has burnt out on the driver's door as all the wires are connected. Back to having a partially functioning car until I can get enough money together to take it to somewhere to get the loom replaced and the motor done at the same time.

There are 4 small wires that had broken, one had broken inside the sheathing and a number of brown wires have nicks in them. Notably a blue and brown wire that provides the CAN bus to the door module has a nick in it, which could explain the errors on the bus. The red and white wire carries 12v and is fused at 25A, so could explain why things were behaving odd when it rained, it was potentially shorting out. It may have been playing up for some time while this wire was breaking. I have some liquid tape that I will be sealing the nicks with, and some waterproof heat shrink butt connectors that melt solder into the joint when heated to patch the wires together. I'm waiting on the larger sized ones for the red and white wire.

I was expecting to find a low end convenience module that wouldn't support cruise control or front fog lights because Skoda is renowned for not installing anything that doesn't come with the car, instead I found a 973-087, looked inside and it is pristine. So I don't need to change it after all. I was worried it might have corroded, which might have been the cause of a problem I have on a different thread, but it turns out not the case, and I can happily upgrade the car's features whenever I want to try to work out how to shove the necessary wires into the A or B connector or the ECU connector as necessary in the future.

Hi, I just prised open the driver's door loom to find 5 broken wires, 4 are visible in this shot and there was some water in the bellows. I've realised I can lock the doors with the remote, and lock the driver's door with the key and the car is secure until I can get the wires rejoined. The red and white wire must be the supply for the window motor, which would explain why the motor didn't work. I'm hoping that resolves the issue.

Could the door wiring throw the same errors? I noticed in the diagnostic that there is a problem with the door module, so if water had got into the wiring, could that provide a communications problem across the whole CAN network?

I had a look inside the convenience module to see if anything was corroded but it all looks okay. I've seen pictures of waterlogged damage and there seems to be nothing visually wrong with the board.

Hi, I would like some advice about my convenience module. I would like to upgrade it to a better model, so I can possibly have cruise control and front fog lights etc. How easy is it to replace? Does it have to be replaced by the dealer or can I replace it? I've heard of VCDS, can that be used to reprogram the new one with the car details? Is the immobiliser details for the keys stored in the convenience unit?

This problem seems to only happen when it has been raining, so I've driven today with no problems so there must be a water ingress problem somewhere, either in the loom or the ECU or convenience module, but the driver's side is not wet.

I plugged my carista OBD in and ran a diagnose and these errors came up. I'm guessing these are coming from either the ECU or the convenience module? It's stopped raining and the car seems okay at the moment of testing but I don't trust it. I'm taking it to an auto electrician to see what they can do.