Si-Audi-Sline

my rear washer has gone again, only used it about 3 times since last fix at dealer, second time it had been in for it in 6 months. boot hatch liner wet at the bottom. Getting a bit sick of this now.

washing car, and noticed a slight dent/crease on the roof at the front level with the rear view mirror and one on the side of the roof. Cars been stood outside house a fortnight whilst weve been away. Guarantee its been caused by the teenage kids next door playing football outside my gaff, but I cant prove anything. Just wondered how accessible the underside of the roof is and how to get at it, was thinking of the removing sunglasses holder as the dent is directly above then I could get one of these companies to tap it out. Any ideas?

Seller has no feedback. Dodgier than a dodgy thing. I recently saw my old 2008 A4 for sale on an ebay add, the photo had been taken outside my house by me but someone online had used the photo as a false ebay add (I had posted photo ages back I cant even remember where online), I know it wasnt my old car they were selling. Unrelated Colleague recently handed lease 57 plate A3 back he had had from new with 107,000 miles - went direct to the auction with this mileage. About a month later I was looking for a car for my misus on autotrader, colleagues old A3 car was advertised by a small trader same reg number everything, now on 42,000 miles on at £15995. 65 thousand mile haircut even though the add claimed full service history. Trading standards are now investigating. Some very dodgy characters out there.

I know someone who has the TSI 122 engine in a scirocco and raves about it even compared to a 2 litre turbo diesel audi A3 which is the other car in the same household. Very punchy by all accounts. Definately the better option if funds allow.

I generally try and avoid braking hard and anticipate traffic to save fuel. cheers will have a look into it.

tbh hard to say, cambelts roughly 4 years or 80K miles but something like a clutch/brakes depends on how its been driven. I've taken mine from 76k to 86K in 7 months with only front tyres (£250) and an oil and filter change (£60) and a failed front wiper arm (£53) and rear washer and aircon re-gas (£80 combined). Get one with full mot, full dealer service history, with good tyres (full set of decent brand is expensive) and a recent cambelt change and you probably wont go far wrong though theres always a chance something lurks round the corner, its the luck of the draw.

Its an absolute deal in tescos batley, west yorks, 136p a litre for momentum (before any 5p vouchers off), local to me the shell v power stuff is about 10 p more than this in price and v power is 9-10p dearer than shell regular unleaded. £5 saving a tank before any vouchers is definately worth having at prices these days.

ouch sorry to hear - that these things do happen though not any easier to take at the time. there are smart repair firms such as sprint finish that can do a really good job, I've had the rear quarter sprayed after someone caught mine in a petrol station, it was about £100 and you would never know the finish is spot on. Dents can be pushed out by smart repairers (usually £80-£100 a panel), if they can get to the back of the panel, that inner hatch liner is a bugger to get off though 1001 clips at awkward angles, I think sprint finish will subcontract the dent side if it can be pushed out or choose to use filler. If the paint on the hatch isnt broken and the back of the panel can be got at it should be a lot cheaper. I think even a smart repair is going to cost £250 quid plus for that lot doing properly.

Thanks Chris

Thanks for the replies, the brakes are very average in an emergency stop (or pulling up sharp from speed), they would be fine on a car with 100bhp, not good with 200bhp and potential 149mph on tap. In a panic moment, the abs kicks in I would say very early, but then I can sense what feels like 'big' gaps in the pulses as though the brakes are being let off too long. Car done 85K now, previous owner put nasty cheap tyres on and before that it was company owned, chances are could be cheap discs to go with the unipart pads and a long overdue brake fluid change. OEM front pads and discs and fluid sounds like a good starting point.

Wondered if anyone can suggest possible problems with my brakes on the VRS . In general use they are perfectly ok and inital bike feels quite powerful, but I havent got a massive amount of faith in them in an emergency. Initial bite is quite sharp (over servoed?), they are fine in normal use. Its when pressing on or an emegency, they need a really firm press of the pedal from motorway speeds, and if slamming on the brakes the abs seems to kick in very early with quite big pulses through the pedal that feel plain wrong. My last audis brakes were different class. Car recently passed its MOT with no advisories, the front pads have about 1cm of pad material left and are Unipart (I didnt put these on). The rear brake pads say brembo and have about 0.5 mm left. The front tyres are newish michelin pilot sport 3's. I cant find any record of a brake fluid change and the car is an 06 plate, so this could be the first option????, but I think something else could be amiss. Any ideas before I book it in the main dealers and will they even have a clue or just swap pads/discs and fluid out at great expense?

mixed bag of results but momentum works for me so far, as another poster said never had any issues with supermarket fuel either diesel or petrol so for me its a no brainer at the moment - my car aint fussy either way so I'll continue to save myself a few quid - have been regularly using the 5p voucher, that saves a few quid for starters and momentum is also about 6p a litre cheaper than v power.

I know they say supermarket fuel is rubbish but this stuff makes my 06 plate VRS so much nicer to drive, it feels noticeably torquier with much more zing in the drive and i reckon about 10% more miles to a tank 340 versus 305ish on regular unleaded. Coming after a tank of standard tesco 95 ive really noticed the difference and swear it even performs better than shell super unleaded (98 ron?). Highly reccommend this stuff on a pre-fl VRS.

its a solid car, i think its a cam chain not belt too on the 1.6 so shouldnt be any expensive belt changes in 2012. The turbo petrols are better drives I am sure, but youre getting the same car - my missus has a 1.4fsi petrol golf - basically the same car as octaiva and it drives really well compared to anything- bit sluggish if you want to get a move on but right enough just going with the flow .

through my employers have been offered a VRS 170 CR standard spec with metallic paint at a very good price. Rough ideal what would this 61 plate be worth 3 years down the line (2014) with 30K miles, I figured about 10 thousand pounds do you reckon it could be worth more given a new model will be out then?