CRZ13

Mine still creaked with the seat folded down too. Grab yourself a tin of copper grease and a thin pain brush and go all out as i did lol especially on the mechanism at back of the rear seats that locks into the hooks (1 each side) made a world of difference on mine

You're a life saver mate! The creaking was driving me insane for just over 2months to the point I was considering selling my car! I originally thought it was the rear passengers door too, took off the door card, padded it all and still creaked! I then fitted coilovers all around, new top mounts and link bars, still creaking! (I wanted to lower it anyway lol ha!) Tried bouncing the car when stationary but wouldn't make any noise at all, only when coming on/off my drive, over speed bumps and uneven bit of road. Then came across your post, so this afternoon got out some copper grease and greased up all the hinges, mechanisms ect at the rear (seats, doors, tailgate) and voila, creaking gone! Happy days

Hiya, I solved my creeking issue this afternoon! Got a tin of copper grease out today along with a paint brush, folded the rear seats forward and greased all the hinges and mechanisms I could see, clipped the seats in and out a few times. Then lifted the rear seat bases and greased every bit of metal i could see lol, again folded up and down a few times. I then greased all the door hinges and rear boot lid hinge/mechanism, opened and closed them all a few times. The annoying creek of death is gone! My creeking was quite bad, everytime i was driving on/off my driveway, over speed bumps, or uneven bit of road it sounded like my car was about to fall apart at the rear. Very surprised that greasing the rear seat hinges, doors and tailgate solved the issue! Think I might keep the car instead of getting rid of it now lol! Hope this helps

Update: Mondeo MK1 drop links solved my issue and car now drive the car! I was also told shorter droplinks are only required if going lower than 40mm but from my experience they were most definitely needed even if not going as low as 40mm as there was no way the original droplinks were going to clear After being on JOM coilys for a few days now I must say the ride is very bouncy and stiff at the same time, probably why they are £200! But as my shocks required replacing anyway, £200 is a very good price as opposed to buying new shocks and lowering springs. Not quite sure what my ride height is atm, but have booked in at a performance garage to have the coilys adjusted properly and equally all around. Have attached a couple of pics, in the side view the rear looks slightly raised but when looking at it side on it is actually sitting lower, will post more pics once they are adjusted again (hopefully by the weekend)

Hi any updates on this? I have just replaced my whole suspension (springs, shocks, top mounts, link bars) in an attempt to eliminate this annoying creek (and also to lower my car at the same time lol) and it is still creeks over bumps and when going over un-even ground. I have also removed the spare wheel foam, spare wheel, parcel shelf, and dropped the rear seats. In addition to removing the passenger side rear door card and putting foam pads all around (about 5pcs of them!) all to no avail! I am currently working a night shift and have come across this thread so will be lifting up the rear seat bases on the way home and will see if that makes any difference. I can swear its the rear passenger side door card though! Hopefully will have some luck as im considering selling the car as its driving me that crazy!

Went for cheap and cheerful JOM coilovers, £210 delivered. Its definitely shorter droplinks that are required as I've seen it for myself, just want confirm which links to go for Cheers for that! Will grab a pair of mondeo links and see how I get on!

Evening guys had some coilovers fitted on my mk2 vrs today but the drop links are too long andI require shortned ones. I have read on the fabia mk1 forums that mondeo droplinks are good to use when on coilys, is this also true for the mk2 fabia? Car has been left at garage as it was knocking too much due to the standard droplinks, even when raising the suspension. Can anyone advise the correct droplinks to go for that can be bought from eurocarparts so I can have my car back in the morning? Cheers

Its definitely the Amundsen unit and not the+ unfortunately as the nav is loaded via a memory card and not stored on a built in hdd if im right in saying

Ahh bummer! Thanks for the info!

Hi guys quick question for the experts I have a 2011 skoda fabia with a amundsen unit but no parking sensors, so therefor no radar display when reverse is engaged, can a reverse cam still be fitted and activated? Also my unit is NOT the + variant kind regards

Was diagnosed to be a faulty alternator as it was charging and sometimes not charging causing fluctuations in battery voltage. Had it booked in to get done following week but after a few days battery light stopped coming on and has been fine for 2 weeks now with no issues...very strange...but happy I've saved not having to have another alternator

Problem solved with a new driver side master window switch...ordered a new replacement from ebay which was advertised for skoda, but once fitted realised the switch lights are red instead of green...contacted the seller who said they dont do them in green and offered a partial refund...all in all windows all work properly now but with red light on the switch...still not too bad for £7.99

Hi did you have any luck with this?

Will bear that in mind...thank you

Thanks for the very detailed reply tried the reset method u mentioned, as well as removing the switch, both to no avail, will try and find someone breaking a fabia with the full switch near me so i can plug in and see if it is the switch before buying one...would i be right in saying that an octavia switch is also the same?