Tursoke

It’s a BBY, and yeah, the OEM parts are ridiculously priced. Looks like I can get a bilstein for 50€. There’s a couple tenner or so cheaper ones there, but I’ll go with a brand I know for that slight of a difference.

Man, that’s a filthy breather. Upon inspecting the breather, it indeed seems like it’s the current culprit for the leak. Are the seals replaceable, or will just a cleaning do, or should I just order a new unit? Photo of the plate I mentioned:

I'm from Finland, the English I picked up by being frantically interested in everything computer. I'll snap a photo of the plate while I'm under the car on saturday. It's a 2004 Fabia, I haven't been too bothered about the oil leak, as it's only been a drop or two after I park it, but the yearly inspection rules changed recently and now you get a fail if they see even a drop of leakage. And the smell isn't nice either, as it tends to leak right on top of the exhaust. Not its only problem by far, it has a slight knock/tick sound as well, which I suspect is a valve, but it seems to take it in stride so I haven't worried about it too much. I actually had been thinking of buying the Haynes manual, but as the description on their website is vague if they cover this engine or not, I haven't yet bought it. Any idea if it does?

The engine indeed has a steel sump, and has a manual transmission. The 45nm bots still are there, but they only hold a thin, separate metal plate in place to cover the opening, for which I imagine 45nm is more than sufficient. I'll check the leak more closely during the weekend, and see if I'll order a new sump, and perhaps the breather as well, depending on the findings. Thanks everyone for the help so far!

I've tried re-sealing the pan twice, and getting a tad annoyed that I'm failing to fix the oil leak. I've used Loctite 5699 as the sealant, I thought it should work, but I'm starting to have my doubts. I'll take any recommendations on sealants that have worked for you guys. And tips on how long should I let the sealant cure before adding oil back into the engine. And to be honest, any general installation tips, as I'm starting to doubt my repair skills... I'm contemplating on getting a new oil pan as well, as they're dirt cheap, but I'm not sure if that's the root of my problem. I'm also sure I used the incorrect torque for the bolts the second time around, as I apparently used the wrong workshop manual for guidance on those. Can anyone confirm if this is the correct one for my use case? And if it is, any idea which bolts does the part "Tighten up the bolts on the oil pan/gearbox to a torque of 45 Nm." refer to? Cheers.