Santa2512

Well I'd better update the thread, He had the MOT done - The guy told him what needed to be done to fix the car for the MOT, then MOT'd the car and failed it, and then did the work and re- MOT'd it. So what was done HL Adjuster unit - obviously, Some welding, and here's where things get odd which does make me wonder?? Supposedly the car went in for a pre mot service and check, which is where he found all the faults that needed fixing - But he didnt do an actual MOT - we know that becase the MOT system didnt show an MOT until the day he did it and my nipper asked him if he had done an MOT, to which he said no On the day he did the MOT it shows a fail and then a pass ... why fail it if the work had been done , conversly why MOT it if your going to do the work And other strange things showed up He gave him an advisory for a rear wheel bearing being noisy, and then failed it for excess play ? WTF - if your going to fail it fail it, if your going to give an advisory give an advisory , but to do both, is he trying to prove what a superior MOT tester he is ?? And that one came out of nowhere - despite the car having a pre mot check!! I asked my nipper to check how much he charged for that on the bill - as he wasnt aware of that in the list of things done cost him about £500 in total

The front wing has tinworm - thats the welding if the unit is leaking i doubt it will hold enough fluid to get through the mot Can you point me in the direction of the Octavia servo mod please

The garage wont accept a manual setting adjustment when the cars presented, becase they know the unit is leaking. The question is Is it a self leveling sytem or an adjustment system.

Must have vroken something, i'm back Well i havn't technically, but the eldest has He's just taken the 2000 Felica in for an MOT and the guy has said the headlamps wont adjust, as the hydraulic unit is cracked and leaking. News to me, had no idea they had a hydraulic system. Now comes the fun part. the unit in question is no longer made apparantly, and the only source he (the garage) can find is in the Czech Republic The Unit with labour and some welding that needs doing will come to £600 which my nipper obviously thinks ouch I had a look and its a common fault, of which the cheap fix is to manualy wind the adjustor out and set the beam. My Nipper spoke to the garage suggesting this, and they say they cant due to MOT regs about self leveling units must work. Now ive been through the MOT regs and they are quite clear 4.1.2 Headlamp alignment You must inspect all dipped beam headlamps fitted. On vehicles with hydro-pneumatic suspension systems, it's necessary to have the engine running when checking headlamp aim. Defect Category The aim of a headlamp is not within limits laid down in the requirements Major Headlamp aim unable to be tested Major Beam image obviously incorrect Major Quite clear, If the beam isnt with the required area, and still isnt following adjustment, then it's a fail No problems with that 4.1.5 Levelling devices Make sure any manual headlamp levelling devices (driver controls) work by: switching on the dipped beam headlamps operating the manual levelling device checking that the headlamp beams move up and down returning the levelling device control to its original position Now if this is a switch or lever inside the car then we know where he's coming from . However there is a clause "Sometimes it is not easy to determine if the self-levelling systems work. In such cases you should give the benefit of the doubt." So if he beam test's it and its at the right level, it should pass, as he has to give the BOD.. Afaik all he's done is seen the leaking unit and said it will fail There is nothing in the regs about the pump unit or suitability of said unit That said if he does need to source a unit, any one got one knowing around, oe know where once can be sourced ( cheaply)

Just thought i'd give an update to the story 12 months ago you may recall we bought my eldest a 1.3 Felicia Low mileage & Full service history Tin worm was evident in the body & the engine temp was high An MOT showed a bit of welding was needed, and that was it. So one mot , one thermostat housing & a coolant change he was on the road. Today it had its MOT and passed :) with a few advisiories Number plate - legibility (backing is separating from the plastic) Corrosion - front wings not structural OS Rear wheel bearing - slight play Cant complain :) looks like i'll be doing a bit of work in the next few weeks ;)

Cheers Rich, Didnt neet to do anything much to the wing, other than push the dent out

Feedback from the run home -26miles Mway & A roads gauge hardly moved from 90c thats a big improvement Just the low temp chugging to look at next

Indicator and rear wash wipe done today I used the car to see how the new stat & housing is doing .. Interesting until the car gets to 70c, it chugs below 2000 rpm, still drivable, but chugs Once it hits 70c its fine ... I checked the MAP yesterday, it had a small film of oil on it, but nothing untoward. Anyone know if you can test it in situ? and how to do it? Edit = just tried unplugging it once the car was running -- it died immidiatly - plugged it back in and it ran so it is working -- I'll get him to run some redex through the tank Coolant was fine came up to 90C rising to 100c, then the stat opened and it dropped back to just under 90c Air still being expelled, but thats to be expected, level in the expansion bottle was stable, with a good concentration of antifreeze Ill get him to run it home tonight and feedback to me Mart

Turns out she did stop, As she didnt know who's car it was, she left her details with the neigbour who was outside at the time (luckily) From Plod's point of view, unless there is damage to 3rd party property, or an allegation of driving without due care, then its a civil matter between the two drivers Ok its the buggerance factor of having to fit the indicator, and T cut a wing. It could have been worse Mart

Just been out and checked cold. 40cl added to bring it to 3/4 mark on the expansion bottle Ran it up again. Stat opens at around 90c, you see the gauge in car drop! then it returns to around 90c i had it ticking over for over 30 mins, Once the stat opens you see coolant flowing into the expansion tank. I dipped it when i first went out and the concentrations levels were good (3 balls), but with the added 40 cl in the expansion tank it was reading (2 balls) i'll check it again tommorow as its had 30 mins to circulate now. Indicator & rear wash wipe tommorow Mart

OK, time for a full update . Car arrived back yesterday, and the new old stock thermostat housing the day before. 3 litres of fresh G13 and a dry day First of, drain the old coolant - a ball check showed 1 ball, so not really much antifreeze/ coolant in there. It also looked more brown than pink. Popped off the rad temp sensor, and the lower rad hose and drained the old coolant into a container. Looking aat the expansion bottle, the level was still high, so i opened the cap, and not much happened. Dropping the lower hose of the expansion bottle showed a small trickle of coolant, - not good, but corroborated why i had a lot of coolant in the bottle last time. This made the coolant escape the bottle when trying to bleed it last time. Once drained, it was evident there was a lot of debris in the expansion bottle. so i whipped it off, and went to work with a hose. The cause of the poor lower exit flow then became visible. 2 large plugs (small pinky nail size) of concentrated sediment were jammed in the aparture. I removed them and made sure the tank was clear and drained properly. Backflushed Rad, block, & heater matrix. Removed old thermostat housing and fitted the new old stock. Now what was interesting is that the VAG group have changed the coolant temp sensor from the T shape to the current round type. So there is now NO visible difference between the VAG part & a pattern part. The pattern part has the part number on it, the OEM part just has VW Audi Skoda logo's on it. Refitted all hoses, and double checked all done up - wouldnt be the first time Reconnected all electrical plugs removed and removed the coolant temp sensor. Refill time:- Following the process outlined on the board 1.5litres of G13 followed by 1.5 litres of H2o 1litres of G13 wich filled to the top of the cooant temp sensor. Temp sensor replaced. & follwed by a further .5 litre of G13 in the expansion bottle I left that lot to settle while i cleaned the map sensor and prepped for bleeding. Looking at the expansion bottle, the level was sitting firmly on MAX Bleeding. Started the engine and sat and waited, This time the idle dropped from 1100+ before the engine temp gauge got off the peg, (last time it didnt drop until it got to 70c) After a long long long time the needle started to move and coolant started to circulate into the expansion tank. Looking at the level now, it was above the MAX mark, almost at the radius of the top! (i'm thinking i may have to syphon some out when cold) The temperature rose and got to 90c (approx) needle slap bang in the centre of the gauge. And sat there ! for a good 20 minutes it just sat there, with circulated coolant & air comming out into the expansion tank. A couple of times i thought it was going to overflow, but it thenit dropped back to a steady stream of circulating coolant from the stat into the expansion bottle. 100 degrees came and still the same. No fan intervention, and coolant and air still comming out of the stat. Then the fan kicked in i was going to pop the cap on then but for reasons unknown, decided to wait. However i noticed that the level of the coolant in the expansion bottle had dropped a lot!! The fan stopped and i replaced the cap. the coolant level was on MIN, i left the engine running and checked the dashboard temp. Just over 90 and still falling! Let it idle for a few minutes and turned off, Ive checked about 20 mins ago, and its on MIN still. Burped top and bottom hoses, and it stays on MIN When it's fully cold i will top up the expansion bottle to just over the midpoint MIN-MAX and recheck the antifreeze level. I'm reckoning 3 balls So by my reckoning I'm just about on 50:50 I'll get it out for a long run tommorow and see how it does Mart

Exhast manifold to head was 25Nm Looking at the housing it its glassfilled nylon with steel bushes. I went 25Nm Thanks for the quick reply Mart

14mm i think i'd need to nip out and check

Hi, Ive just taken the thermostat unit off to repalce with a brand new one, and lo and behold, Haynes do not specify a torque value for refitting the unit The give 10Nm for the thermostat cover, but nothing for the housing to cylinder head. Any ideas? i'm kinda stuck now lol Mart

WIng is fine, a minor dent i can push out Indicator is right royally fubarred Pattern part on order £10.50 Contacted the other driver, and they have paid for the part, which is fair i think