xop321

just to let you no, the wiring bypass has now sloved the problem, i have done nearly 100 miles in the car with no problem when i was doing the bypass i noticed the main wiring loom that runs from the body onto the engine was resting on top of the gear linkage so every time the gear lever was being moves we could have had this rub up against the wiring loom, the must by some sort of interminant break between the ecu and the sensor i no a wiring bypass is not ideal , but its sloved the problem thanks breezy pete for the information, i could not has sloved the issue or fixed it this fast without your help

i was thinking of running parallel lines to all of them i will try and post a update latter to see if this sloves the problem

just a quick question about Pin 3 Red/green wire, +5V supply from engine ECU pin 62 result = 4.9v with ign on does the ecu supply the 5v feed from the ecu end down to the map sensor?? i am thinkining about adding in the bypass wires, just wondering wehter the 5v feed is threw the ecu or it comes from a different place Pin 1 Brown wire, earth, can just be earthed to the negaitive battery point with a bypass wire Pin 2 Green wire, Intake Air Temperature sender to engine ECU pin 56 - just run a bypass wire from the ecu area down to just near the map sensor Pin 3 Red/green wire, +5V supply from engine ECU pin 62 - - just run a bypass wire from the ecu area down to just near the map sensor ( is this ok, is the 5v feed comming off the ecu) Pin 4 Brown/white wire, pressure sensor output to engine ECU pin 70 - - just run a bypass wire from the ecu area down to just near the map sensor

its now fitted with a brand new bosh sensor so i think we can rule the sensor its self as the issue out when i pulled the 2 connecters off the ecu all the connecter pins seemed fine and free of corrosion i did not open up the ecu to just check if any water has gotten into it i will test the pins again like you mentioned and pull the ecu off and open it up to see if any water has gotten into it and let you no how i get on also would a complete wire bypass be a option, i no its not the best solution, but maybe run new wires from the ecu around and down to the sensor and splice them in, in effect bypassing and suspect broken wires should i just join the wires on the exsiting wires near the ecu and down near the sensor, i no this is a bodge and not ideal but whould be easier than trying to trace a interminant wire break issue?? what grade are the correct wires to buy on ebay to do this, do i need smaller gauge wire??

i did not test ----- Don't forget to check for short (0 Ohm) problems between each sensor connector pin and earth. so with that just check pins between earth and each pin?? like pin 1 to earth, pin 2 to earth, pin 3 to earth, pin 4 to earth, should i see a reading or no readings??

i just tested all the connecters Pin 1 Brown wire, earth, test for 0 Ohms to battery negative. result = i get 02.3 testing this wire Pin 2 Green wire, Intake Air Temperature sender to engine ECU pin 56 (on the smaller of the two connectors) result = 01.5 ohms testing this wire Pin 3 Red/green wire, +5V supply from engine ECU pin 62 result = 4.9v with ign on Pin 4 Brown/white wire, pressure sensor output to engine ECU pin 70 result = 0.15 ohms this must be a intermitant issue, as now clear the codes - i start the car from cold after doing all the tests and it runs fine, running normal, no codes being fired off, code reader comming back no codes at all the wierd thing is that the code i could not clear yesterday - 17564 - Manifold pressure sensor (G71): Open Short to ground : P1156 - is now cleared just run it for a few mins and it has yet to show any codes again would this suggest i might have a problem either with the wiring still, say once you start driving and moving the wire break might just move enough to break the connection, just when i tested its all in alignment ?? could there be a issue in the ecu causing this its just strange its all clear running fine one mintute , then maybe the next day we get the faults back

so on Pin 2 Green wire, Intake Air Temperature sender to engine ECU pin 56 (on the smaller of the two connectors) -- i should test at map sensor connecter - to ecu connecter pin 56, and see a ohms reading - if theres no reading this would suggest a wiring break/fault?? Pin 3 Red/green wire, +5V supply from engine ECU pin 62 -- i should test at map sensor connecter - to battery negative to see a 5v reading ( is this only with ignition on / or does it need engine running) - if theres no reading this would suggest a wiring break/fault?? Pin 4 Brown/white wire, pressure sensor output to engine ECU pin 70 -- -- i should test at map sensor connecter - to ecu connecter pin 70, and see a ohms reading - if theres no reading this would suggest a wiring break/fault??

is there a picture of the ecu pinouts on here by any chance??

just tested Pin 1 Brown wire, earth, test for 0 Ohms to battery negative. i get 02.3 testing this wire i get the same 02.3 testing the the battery negative cable 1 inch apart would this suggest the brown earth wire is ok

i will give it a test tomorrow if its not raining and post a update on this , thanks on this care where is the ecu located ?? is it the box behind the battery or in a diff location

just a update on this MAKE SURE YOU CLEAN THE CRAP OUT OF YOUR WINDSCREEN DRAIN CHANNELS IN THE TOP JUST BELOW THE LOWER EDGE OF THE WINDSCREEN - both sides i had the drain channels block up with dirt on a citgo again and water ran into the cabin, just something to be aware of on these

its a BZG skoda fabia 1 htp70

I have a 2008 Skoda Fabia 1.2 petrol with Just 62K miles on it and i have the fault code P1156 on it , If i try to delete the error codes, it will not clear, it stays even after running, a code read / code clear with a scan tool Heres a rundown of the issues: Car has intermittent rough idle, missing etc, sometimes you start it up and it seems to run fine, turn it off and on, them its running a bit rough, lumpy idle and abit hesatiant the code always present is , (from my maxidiag scan tool) 17564 - Manifold pressure sensor (G71): Open Short to ground : P1156 once you start and run the car, like i did this morning it run fine on first start up, reved up and seemed to run just fine, turn it off and started agian, it then run abitting lumpy, rough idle , a bit hesiatant etc this caused it to turn on the engine warning light now when i read the codes again we get another code appear 17564 - Manifold pressure sensor (G71): Open Short to ground : P1156 and 17549 Load calculation cross check: Implausible value: P1141 static - output dose not sw./short to earth engine light is now on what i have done: 1) replaced the map sensor with a brand new one (bocsh) - did not fix the problem 2) looked all over the wiring for a clear break or similar problem, nothing present it seems help me please with a suggestion of a route to take: 1) if it says short to ground on P1156 fault code and that is always present even after clearing the codes, does this suggest a wiring fault/break ?? 2) if it is a wiring fault what it the bast way to test to confirm a broken wire 3) is there a common place the wires tend to break on these has anyone ever had one of the wires break and if so where was it? does anyone have a wiring diagram for the wires running from the map sensor and where they go to ??