vrsmeansyellow

If anything, i think i get more miles, and the engine seems smoother with regular. I still use v power though, cause in my mind i think its doing better for the engine ?? lol

If i remember correctly, theres about 3 lives in there. The two big red ones, and a smaller one. But i would strongly advise getting a cheepo voltmeter to double check. Also would advise putting an inline fuse between the live and boost guage, ive had bad experiences fiddling about with the headlight wires trying to make the "see me home lights" mod work.

I had the same problem with the coil overs. It was the drop links actually hitting the drive shafts when going over bumps (i had the suspension wound down too much i guess) Anyway this caused the droplinks to twist and nacker the bottom bearing bit. Alot of the guys on here fit shorter drop links from other cars to stop this, hopefully someone will clarify what ones it is, but im sure mondeo ones are ok.

The only thing i can suggest is dissconnecting the battery for 5 mins or so. I had to do that when my wipers wouldn't work on first click up, dissconnected for 5 mins, and now no probs. Also i assume you know you can switch auto windows back on again by closing the windows and clicking the switch up again, as if your trying to close the windows again. Oh and try posting this in the "Fabia 1" forum rather than technical guides, you'll get more luck there. . . .

Im marshalling the BTCC at knockhill, so will be taking the furby round the track, cause weve all got to park in the middle of the circuit due to the amount of spectator cars coming. If anyone is there that early and wants to get there camera out, ide love a pic of the furby going going down the dip, lol. Hopefully there will be some good racing, wasn't brilliant last year, will hopefully be marshalling at the dip as well so bound to get a few offs to keep me busy. And theres the bonus of not having to pay £25 entry!

Basically, if your changing both, it will cost you close to a grand whatever make you go for. So buy the bits, grab yourself the haynes manual and do the work yourself. Thats the only way of keeping the costs down as far as i can see.

Bull! If it was genuine, and was any good, for £20, everyone would have one! A half decent plug and play chip is £400-£600. What he has is probably a resister mod (resister probably only costs a couple of pounds from the likes of maplins). Don't know how they work or where they go exactly. But for example, you take the plug off an electrical component, and put this resister between the connections, which sends the wrong signal to the ecu and fools it into either over fueling or increacing the turbo speed etc.

Will hopefully either have the corsa, or MG ZR on track, and the vrs in the show area. Either way, im there!! 1)Skodaboy1983 & Skodagirl1985 (maybe at present) 2)Nokiauk (maybe, prob very likely but best not to commit at an early stage) 3)P13SST (as above) 4)cupraR(any chance of getting my skoda on your stand ) 5)digitaldwarf 6)vrsmeansyellow

Is it the egr? why would the egr have oil in it? Looks to me like its coming from the breather pipe, or a crack in the casing. The breather pipe takes hot airated oil and feeds it into the intake system so surely its coming from that. Have a look and see if you can see any hair line cracks in the casing, or take the breather pipe off and see if its cracked. If your still unsure, clean it all off, then check it daily to see if you can see where its coming from before it spreads everywhere.

Hey guys n girls. Ok fitted coilies a couple of weeks ago, and im starting to hear knocking when going over speedbumps. Ive had a good look around and cant see any signs of the anti roll bar hitting anything. When the car is sitting on the ground, i can grab either front wheel and when trying to roll it back and forward, there seems to be alot of movement in the console bush. I can't hear anything when doing this but just seems like its not as stiff as it should be. Do you think the car being lower has done somthing to the bushes, or is it because the lower wishbone is more vertical than before so maybe has more leaverage on the bush? Any suggestions of what it could be, or have you encountered this before? Thanks in advance.

Lookin good buddy, a day well spent!

Added a wee thanks in there for ya mikesm56. Ive been wanting to put a sub on my car for ages, but there is no pre outs on the original head unit. Never knew those connectors existed. Cheers.

If anyone is going to pinch some bits off it then ide be interested in the exhaust. I would pay you for your troubles of course. I'm just a bit too far away to go for a look.

No don't remove the hub, too much hastle. - Just remove the arch liner, and the main spline bolt - compress the springs as far as you can - spread the hub - spray some wd40 or similar down between the hub and strut - you should then be able to get a rubber mallet and hammer the bottom of the spring holder upwards, slowly easing the strut from the hub - when its clear the hub should drop to one side - you can then take the 3 bolts out from the strut top and remove the strut.

LMAO