fredfred

Skoda superb mk ii 2009. I have the upgraded sound system - amplifier under the passenger seat and the extra speakers in the doors. I am looking for a new head unit to replace the columbus. I tried one of the typical Android units, an Erisin model (es7915v) that others had reported working in the Superb. It did not play well with the amp - I had static whenever there was any volume and it could not be fixed whatever I tried, including the "disconnect the battery" trick to get the amp to recognise the unit. So that went back. https://www.erisin.com/erisin-es7915v-8quotandroid-90-car-stereo-gps-dab-cd-ops-for-vw-passat-golf-touran-polo-eos-seat-p0360.html It seems to be an issue with the external amp and the upgraded sound system. Is there anyone here that can point me to a model that they know works with this setup? One poster on here said they had something working but they didn't state the model and aren't around anymore. Having Google maps and Spotify and all the other features of the aftermarket unit was great. I'd love to get this all functioning if possible.

So I ran Carista and there were a bunch of fault codes from times gone by and then - stupidly - I cleared them by mistake before taking a closer look... I'll keep an eye on the driving over the weekend and run it again when something happens.

Ordered a couple of these last night for £30 for the pair so I'll give them a go. I think we're good on this. Horsey people who have done far more towing than me have looked at the trailer when hitched and were pretty satisfied. It's a double axel trailer built for two horses and carrying only one so the weight distribution is as planned. Yes and I've taken instruction on pulling an animal. He's an experienced horse and good at loading and well behaved in the trailer. There's not much issue on that side; it was more the car I wanted to sort out and make sure it's not going to die due to silly mistakes.

Interesting idea on the rear springs. I'll look into that depending how much driving around we tend to do. I posted another thread yesterday that the clutch plates seem to be going - I'm only expecting towing to speed up the need for that to be attended to. Yep. Full B+E.

So I am going to start towing a horse trailer with the Superb. This is a 2009 car, not the estate, 2.0l diesel automatic. Trailer + horse will be c.1,500 kg. The load is well within max towing load for the vehicle. Any tips on how to best prepare / maintain / drive the car? With a horse in the back there isn't going to be much in the way of dramatic acceleration or braking.

Thanks. I'll give Carista a try tonight and check fault codes. £10 for a week's access isn't going to kill me if I know more about the issue.

Superb 2009, diesel automatic, 90K: every so often, the car will not catch reverse. The R flashes in the top-right of the maxidot and rev all you like, it's not going anywhere. Sometimes it will catch after a second or two but usually, I'll put it into neutral, wait a moment seconds, go back to reverse and all is well again. Recently there have been a couple of occasions where this extends to drive as well and the car won't go into gear forward or back. It's solved by turning off the engine and restarting and then no problem. But these incidents are increasing in frequency and I'm concerned that I will be stuck in the middle of nowhere needing a fix that the RAC won't be able to do roadside. So: this is the clutch, yes? I think so. Garage thinks so. But is it likely just clutch plate, or the master cylinder, the slave - or everything together?

Ah I didn't realise I could reset errors with that tool, just view them. Fabulous. That fascia is a pain to remove while keeping the airbag connection plugged in.....

I have an Erisin as well, just installed today. This one: https://www.erisin.co.uk/erisin-es7915v-8quotandroid-90-car-stereo-gps-dab-cd-ops-for-vw-passat-golf-touran-polo-eos-seat-p0360-p0360.html Like everything about it atm EXCEPT that I am getting white noise / static. The sound works (and sounds pretty good at a decent volume) but the static is noticeable, especially at low volumes or with e.g. talk radio. It's across all channels - radio, cd, spotify, etc. I'm on a Superb Mk II, 2009, and I believe I have the decent sound system. I can't see an external amp anywhere but I've got the extra speakers in the doors. I used the battery disconnection method to install the unit and get the sound working properly. At first, the volume was VERY VERY LOUD but I've fiddled with some of the factory settings that let you reduce the sound by eg 15db. This gets things down to a reasonable volume but doesn't make any difference to the static, unfortunately. Any ideas what might be causing the white noise? I've also got an airbag warning light since disconnecting and reconnecting the fascia......

Found the resistor. Right hand side of the window, the smallest bit of plastic cover over the hatch mechanism just snaps off - no screws. The resistor looks fine on a cursory check - no evidence of damage. The fuse is fine, the relay clicks when I turn the heated window on, and the whole rear window has just been replaced so that should be working. Anyone got an idea what else might be making the rear window heater not work? It's not working at all, no lines are heating whatsoever.

Whereabouts is this resistor? My heated rear window doesn't work either (fuse fine, clicks when I turn it on, but not a bit of the screen defrosts) and I'd like to check the resistor first. There are definitely gaps in the elements on the rear window but I should be able to find some spots where I can get a a circuit using a circuit tester, shouldn't I? It's difficult to see where the elements begin, so finding out where the resistor is would also help this investigation.....

So I managed to fit the wires today and all now works perfectly. I wish I'd taken photos as I went but a text description will have to do, together with a few photos of the final threading of the wire. Thanks to all on here for help - not just in this thread but in a bundle of others where I've found little bits of information. Adding Stereo to a Mono Bluetooth Connection 1. Purchased 2 x VW Repair cables 0.5mm / 50cm long from eBay. About £4 each. Yellow cable, can't miss 'em. Part number 000979009. 2. Chopped each cable in half. Found an old lamp cable in the shed, took the blue and brown cables and fitted c1.5m of each between the ends of each cable. So now I had two cables, both c.2m long, each with half of the VW repair cable on the ends. I soldered the connections for strength. You could probably use those block connectors but it would make threading them up to the Columbus more difficult. 3. Best guide I found for how and where to fit the cables was this PDF: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7YrkNOiV5HeT3hoLTNFaUJsczQ/view?usp=sharing Can't remember where I got it from online but there are photos here on how to fit the ends of the cables to the bluetooth unit and to the rear of the Columbus. Note that the PDF says to disconnect the battery. I didn't bother. There's also a text-only guide here: http://www.myturbodiesel.com/wiki/bluetooth-9w7-module-voice-control-retrofit-swap-install-and-faq/ 4. Took the big chunky black connector out of the bluetooth unit. Connected one end of the repair wires to the Bluetooth unit. See the PDF for where to put them. It was surprisingly difficult to get the connectors into the tiny slots in the blue connector, particularly the second one. One of them needed me wiggling the end of a tiny screwdriver to enlarge the hole. Are they meant to be this difficult? The ones in the Columbus were much easier. 5. Removed the Columbus unit. I won't give instructions on this as there are plenty around and it's easy to do. Pull it out - it can be completely unplugged if necessary but to begin with, I just pulled it out and rested it on top of the gear stick (on top of a piece of cardboard so it wouldn't scratch anything). 5. Removed the panel on the left hand side of the driver's seat that extends forwards up towards the engine (in the UK - in Europe if you're left hand drive, it's going to be on the right). Long and thin. It's held in by a few plastic clips in the middle and is very easy to pull out. Admire my photoshop skills: I then poked around for about 10-15 minutes trying to work out how I could get the wires up through the newly created hole and into the rear of the Columbus. There's a vertical silver post running up the side. I found I could thread the wires behind that and poke them up, and then reach into the plastic housing into which the Columbus fits and retrieve them. It's not easy and if you've never done it before, don't expect it to work first time. 6. Took the big chunky connector out of the Columbus. Removed the green unit from it and added the wires (see the PDF again). Connecting these was much easier than with the bluetooth unit. 7. Re-connected the chunky connector. I was expecting this to slot straight back in but it took a while to make it fit. There might be a trick to it but if there is, I didn't learn it. 8. Tested the system to make sure I was finally getting stereo. Success! 9. Carefully worked the Columbus back in, making sure the new cables were not getting twisted too much. 10. Threaded the two wires down inside the space where I'd removed the panel beside the driver's seat. I brought the wires alongside the rails for the driver's seat and then down beneath the plastic cover of the bluetooth unit. The length, luckily, was just about perfect. If I'd known what I was doing at the start, I would have threaded the wires underneath the rails and made it a little tidier, but it still worked. They looked like this in the end: And that was it. Fiddly in places, but all good in the end.

So the clearest summary I have found is this: http://gpsunderground.com/forum/forum/car-navi-system/car-gps-systems/volkswagen-seat-skoda/32206-vw-rns-510-skoda-columbus-i-firmware-guide-downloads 1. Everyone can use firmware 5238 and newest maps -> You can always use firmware 5238 on any device from 2005 to October 2013 (with HDD). *Hardware C3-C12*. -> You can update directly to 5238 with no need for an update in between. -> An update version will not reset the coding. -> *The only exception are SEAT devices from 2007-2008.* 2. Who can use firmware 5274? -> Hardware C6-C12 3. Who can use firmware 6276? -> Hardware C14 starting from November 2013 (HW Vehicle 0xCE01; with SSD). As far as I can tell, 5238 adds radio text in addition to what's in 4020 (which is what I currently have). Not too much of an upgrade but I might give it a go, just because.

So I have: Unit: 3T0 035 680 B (according to secret setup menu) HW: H05 SW: 4024 Maps: 7918 So... I *think* I can go up to 5238. Is that correct? And what might be the latest map files?

This is why I was asking.... I removed the unit last night for a different issue but didn't think to record the unit details. Will do so tonight and report back.