elaasi

In regards to that I think that's actually what (at least my multimeter) does because it not only just makes the sound but also displays a number (usually the sound stoping at arround 1000 ohms). But I will check also the resistance between the connections, again asap I have some free time.

Currently I am a bit overwhelmed with work/school, asap I have some free time I will do you suggestions and post the results.

The one that goes to the ECU, because for the one that goes to the alternator I checked the continuity with a multimiter and everything was fine on both cables. In addition because I had to cut the cables a bit high cause they were rusty I could solder them from underneath so I removed the air pipe and pulled them up so I cand solder the cable from above. And because the new connector had quite long cables I was able to connect it directly to the alternator, skipping the other cable all together (just to check). And it did not work, same symptoms.

I know this is a old topic. But following different topics I found on this thread, I identified that I have an issue with my load signal wire. So...I bought a new connector, checked the continuity between the connector and alternator, solder the a new connector in and nothing has changed....I still don't have a batter light on one turn of the key. And if I have it, the servo light as well as the airbag light are also on, and the engine will not start. So I will need to turn the key back and try again, after what it works. With the engine on, from time to time the battery comes up for a split of a second and I can hear the relay clicking. And of course the ASR light comes up after a 30 minute drive. Now....if it is not down there at the connector, and the connection between them and the alternator is good, is there still a decently easy way to fix or? And if not, how bad is to drive like that....what can happen? And what are the risks?

Hi, soo...quick question. I had the same issue, and when I looked at the gable, I realized that it was already once fixed, but unfortunately, the new piece of cable, were of really bad quality so I decided to fix it temporarily (without soldering, fast re connection and isolation) until I get a new connector (that comes with new wires); But now something new's happening, at the ignition (engine off) still no battery but no weird lights on (like power steering, or airbag, etc.) but after I turn the engine on, the battery light comes up, goes out, usually at low RPM. Now my questions, a new proper connector will solve my problems, or there's something more to it? As well, I tried to check continuity from the alternator to the connector and I hadn't had any, is that normal? Because the current connector itself was ok, but the cable, the new part, was totally garbage, all of it was rusted and just destroyed, I tried my best to connect (just connect) the broken parts, and check the continuity on the cables - there was - but...when I get the new connector, I will cut from above where it was previously fixed....

That looks amazing...I wish I would be able one day to do the same to this poor car (being the first car, it is a special connection) but sadly I don't think it will happen 😞 So all in all, what the hell it might be, like it does not bother me much, because as I said it is not constant (I will say it again, for the last time, even if it sounds stupid, only when rains) and yeah, I don't feel anything in the steering, it steers straight, the tyres are worn evenly, most of the things look ugly, I know, but nothing really shakes badly or something, and the movement in the absorber was odd (maybe it is normal donno)

so.. Drop Links - no movement at all, tried to tight them hard couldn't so I guess the issue not there ARB bushes ...donno I have attached photos so maybe you can tell me more, in my opinion, they look decent Track rod end - up and down no movement, they move tho, on a circular trajectory, but I suppose that's how they are supposed to move, they look ****ty tho :)) again photos; Console bushes - look ok, better than the arb bushes, did not take a picture 😞 The steering rod (the one with 3 bolts down, did not look very well tho.... on 12 and 6 o'clock hands, no movement when the wheel was up; there was a bit of movement, on 9 and 3 o'clock tho, and the weirdest thing that the entire shock absorber was moving as well, very little movement, I initially did not observe that the movement is also in the shock observers, but then I check and rechecked and they were moving slightly as well, also there is a crack on a thing on the shock absorbers, donno if it is bad, under the rubber, it looks fine, no leaks or smth. For the last two weeks (did no rain) could not hear the knock, yesterday rained, started again, so I know it is stupid but it is definitely related to it somehow... sorry for late replies

Thank you for this guide, I will try maybe this weekend to do all the specified above things and see what comes up

I know that everything could be solved by just going to the mechanic, but being a student not from Denmark, it is quite expensive for me every time something seems odd to go to the mechanic, that's why I try to figure out if it is a "must" before going.....

How do I check the track rods?

In regards to the wheel size, they are 205/45/R16 so yeah not standard a bit bigger I will check if the rubbing noise comes from the CV joint or wheel, but I think it is not the wheel cause I had the same noise with the winter wheels which are 14'. But the noise is very low, I can't hear it from inside the car only from the outside.

Sorry for late updates/replies I have been in my exams period and didn't have much time and thank you all for the info!

so the drop links are tight (I am not sure tho if the way I checked is proper, I turned the wheel fully and grabbed the drop link and tried to see if there is any movement and there wasn't) in regards to the arb bushes how do I check them? One more thing that I have noticed, many times, first I thought it is a coincidence (and silly), but it has happened so often that I would cross out coincidence. The knocking happens more often (much more often and more obvious) when it is raining...I know it is kind of silly but again I noticed it many many times.

Also in addition when the wheel is fully steered into a direction and car slowly moving I can hear (from the outside) a rubber rubbing noise, donno if it has any relation

Thanks for the reply, maybe it was a communication mistake on my side (hard sometimes to find the exact translation of part) I think that's the thing that was changed when I said tie rod, by the looks of it, it can be seen when you steer the wheel into a direction quite easy, and I remember before changing that when I would grab it and try to shake it would shake (that's why I wanted it changed)....I know it is a stock image, but that's the part that was changed I supposed properly called droplink