eng_ahmad1986

actually you deserve a thousand like thank you

really thank you very much , I will see and tell you what it turned out to be really thank you

thank you for this quick reply , you are very helpful to me really thank you I have read in a post hear that some Felicia engines have aluminum and steel pushrod mix, that's why we have different clearances because they expand differently under heat , and some engines have all 8 steel pushrods, that makes the valve clearance 0.2 mm for all , now for the 136B engine, what pushrods do I have !! thank you

Sorry for the late reply, yes we have this fashion in Egypt to lower the cost as mpi involves buying a control unit and new wiring, (expensive in egypt) , and due to the ease and simplicity of diagnosing and repairing, and the mpi electronic components like sensors and so are hard to find, no new parts and hard to find used parts in a good working condition. now i have tested the compression of the engine while it was hot, it gave 12.7 bar for the weakest cylinder and 13.7 bar for the strongest one, now how well this engine is? Another thing, i have adjusted the valve clearance as 0.2 for the intake and 0.25 for the exhaust , but this setup makes an uncomfortable ticking noise, the mechanic insists it should be 0.2 for all valves, that was the ticking noise will be reduced to a minimum, whats your opinion? It matters very much to me

hey guys, it turned out that the engine block is rusted and is leaking coolant into cylinders and leaking compression into coolant, now I proceeded with engine replacement with a used one , now I have a different question , now the new engine ( which is a complete engine - cylinder head and short block altogether ) is a 136B engine, while the old one was a 135 engine on carburetor as you know, but I'm going to install the carburetor on the new engine, now what is the rated power output of that engine originally ,and how will this be affected by installing the carb rather than the mono-motronic ?

thank you very much for the quick reply, then how can we test the head gasket for compression leaks into coolant without disassembling ? some mechanics suggests : while the engine is cold, fill the expansion tank up to the neck, disconnect the ignition coil plug, and have a friend crank the engine while you observe the coolant for bubbles or coolant spillover. now is that a good method that could rule out the head gasket failure even it is a minor leak ? and for the mentioned thermostat I see it has a rating of 80 C , so what would be the matching fan switch rating ? I really wish to thank you in person for all this help and consideration

Tomorrow I'm going to the mechanic , I will tell him to disassemble the cylinder head and visually inspect the head gasket for leaks and replace if necessary, I will install a thermostat and a matching fan switch, and let you know how will it go but I have a question : what would be the correct thermostat rating and the matching fan switch rating, knowing that my Felicia is the hot climate version as mentioned by Skoda ? its not the part numbers that I want, but the correct ratings, because auto parts sellers here in Egypt deal more with ratings rather than part numbers !! just to remind you my dear friends, my Felicia is the carbureted 43 KW version, and the thermostat housing is the metal one thank you very much for all this help , I really appreciate your help, caring, and considering and I apologize if my English is not that good, my native language is Arabic

https://skoda.catalogs-parts.com/#{client:1;page:models;lang:en;region:cz} this one is also a good online parts catalog with part numbers, and diagrams

by more late I mean instead of kicking in at 92 C it kicks in at 100 C or perhaps a little more, and shuts off at 90C instead of of 80C, but if left idle for a while it gets to the normal range again which is 92-80 . nowadays the temp. in Egypt is about 15 C to 25 C to clarify this , the fan kicks in and shut off at : normally at idle : 92 C - 80 C after driving for a while ( usually highway speed ) , and then come to stop and let it idle : 100 C - 90 C if left to idle for a while it returns back to 92 C - 80 C all these figures according to the fan switch installed which is : 82 C - 68 C

Thank you all very much for considering and this great help, but what really matters : when driving on a highway at high speed for sometime ( may be 120 kmph and over ) and then come to a stop to let the engine idle, why at that instant the fan kicks in more late, and if left idle for sometime the fan kicks in back into the normal range !! is that Ok ? do you all experience this ? thank you all again for considering

Thank you very much Ricardo for considering, but for an expert in Felicias like you , what do you think it could be ? and by the way, for the metal temp. sensor, what would be the correct ohm reading per temperature if you have an idea ?

something I'm thinking of : could it be an air pocket behind the fan switch ?

Thanks again very much for the follow up , unfortunately here in Egypt we don't have access to an infrared thermometer, neither the mechanics use it anyways :( :(

Thank you very much for considering and quick reply , of course I understand that point , but would it be that much difference in temperature ? that's why I asked what is the normal range for the fan to kick in/out regarding the temp gauge, and according to the fan switch rating mentioned above

Greetings to all members I have a this coolant temperature puzzle that is driving me crazy !! I'm located in Cairo, Egypt I own a 1996 Skoda Felicia Combi on carburetor ( 43 KW ) Coolant temperature sensor is the metal one, with one terminal connector. installed radiator fan switch rating : on at 82 C , off at 68 C my problem is that the radiator fan kicks in too late , meaning over 90 C , probably 95 at idle , and switches off above between 70 C and 90 C this condition worsens after driving for a while then stopping , fan kicks in at probably 100 C and off probably at 88 C ( at idle ) there is no thermostat installed things that have been replaced so far : radiator , coolant pump , fan switch ( same rating as above ) checked head gasket for compression leaks , the mechanic confirmed that the head gasket is OK for there is no pressure build up in coolant hoses . my head is going to many thoughts, could it be coolant temp sensor ? could it be temp gauge out of calibration ? could it be any other thing ? and by the way , if the fan switch is with the above rating , what would be the normal range for the fan to work regarding the temp gauge ? this condition is driving me crazy , I don't know what else to do , please help I really need it urgently thank you all very much for considering