FilipeSilva

yeap, found that the hard way (****) because, somehow the car doesn't stop after removing the key. Only starts and doesn't stop... only by removing one of the relays. So... I guess the relay went bad (let's hope it is only that). Yes, the module was ordered and placed by a official mechanic as per the part. So, maybe it comes to a wire. The most basic option.

Hi Wino, I am getting deeper and deeper in this. So, as an update, the onboard supply control module (5WK48216 - 6Q0 937 049) was replaced. Some error codes pop up and had to replaced (also in sequence to an issue that the car would stop after 2hours of driving along with 2 new coils. Tested the switchs F218 and E234, as the tailgate/boot locking motor. So my guess is now the relay. I've opened the compartment under the steering wheel and found these: 18, 29, 404 and 447. Do you know with of these is responsible to send current to the tailgate/boot locking motor?

Hi plymvrs, I have studied meantime some wiring diagrams and that particular issue might be a faulty micro-switch in the lock of the trunk door (moving part of it). This micro switch is not activated so the light will not turn on. So, in your case this: https://goo.gl/images/9t5xQJ might need to be replaced.

Great data there Wino! Can you find on the schematic which voltage should be passing throw the exterior switch by the license plate. Because weird for me t being only 1V to 0V when pressed. I barely know this stuff and the multiple names things can have. I have changed (pretty expensive) i think it called comfort control module. Have to change this because it was faulty (car stopping after precisely 2 hours of driving). One thing that was fixed was the cruise control which has not been working for already 2 years. Wiko: on your schematic this component is which one? Central convenience module? To say, the trunk issue and other issue with my electric windows (also on another post) haven't been fixed with the replacement of this component. Maybe with these small

Hi Wino, Checked the fuse 31, seems fine and still no voltage in the wires connected to the solenoid. This is my fuse card map: https://ibb.co/fo68in https://ibb.co/jfMKpS Gonna check where that relay is...

It is from 2006, a hatchback. Thank you Wino.

Hi Wino! Did try the other polarity. And the solenoid worked in the direction to open the trunk. So i would say that the solenoid is fine. I just need to have current to power it when i click the switch! and that is not happening. No voltage whatsoever. I tried to find were the 12v (of a small portable battery that i plugged to the solenoid) appear around the trunk switch but nothing. Still the 1v to 0v when the outside trunk switch/button is pressed. Tomorrow i will open my driver side door. Gonna go and try to check the microswitch. Pretty sure the car inspection will fail because of the trunk not opening :(

I think that was how i did it, red/green being positive and brown as negative. If i invert this might not it burn the solenoid? i think the solenoid has only one polarity?

Yes, thank you for your idea. I tried that but still doesn't open. :( I am not sure but i think this happened after the car hadn't battery and i had to close all doors with the key in driver door, copilot door and clicked the closer on each of the back doors. The trunk i didn't do nothing. And since then (i think) the trunk never opened. Maybe you can help me by measuring the voltage in the 2 wires that connect to the solenoid to activate the trunk opening.

Hi, Living in the Netherlands and my poor car is struggling with this weather.Having several electric problem recently. A new issue is now with the boot or trunk door that can't be opened. Only manually by putting down the back seat and touching the latch open. Have been troubleshooting a bit and searching of course. Need someone to help me confirming something I found and get to some conclusion: - The actuator/solenoid is extended. I suppose that when it has no power on it, is it normally extended. To made the trunk/boot open it need to retract. - Applied 12 volts to the solenoid nothing happened (only one time click sound). - Manually I retracted the solenoid (pulled a lever and the extend of the solenoid goes inside of itself) and applied 12V. The solenoid immediately extends. Does this make sense/logic? Shouldn't, when applying power, the solenoid makes the trunk open? And to make it open the correct direction should be to retract not to extend itself, is this thinking correct? - I checked also the switch/button between the license plate lights. With the multi-meter I get 1V (precisely) and when pressing the button I get 0V (precisely). Are these values OK? I would expect a bit more voltage. - After seeing that click the button to open the trunc cuts the power (0 volts) i now understand that that this will make the solenoid have no power and go to its extended state. But it doesn't make sense (because as I said before, with 12v the solenoid extends itself - not the position to open the trunk. what you think guys? can someone help me out?

Hi, Having this issue for some time now. Seems that I need to remove the driver electric window fuse and place it back in for the both windows to work (only front windows are electric). After removing and placing back the fuse both work perfectly during all time... till I turn off the car. I suppose the mechanism needs to drain the current (removing the fuse). This happened (maybe) after high humidity, rain... but should then the window switch be working perfectly?

Nice tips guys! I will try to replace those and will update about it! Thank you!

Hi AwaoffSki! Sorry for the lack of those infos :p The car has about 120.000km,1.2 L I3 HTP (petrol), service up to date but I am aware that the gasoline filter was not changed recently. The air filter is new and regarding the plugs... i am not sure maybe they have 3 years now! Thanks!

Hi, I've got this issue yesterday and about an year ago. Tried to search but seems a bit weird problem. These two times happened in very similar conditions: After a non-stop 2 hour drive, in cold weather +-2 degrees Celsius and I got a sudden loss of power. Still gas on the deposit. The motor/engine light pops on. After a small break (turned off the car) for about 3 min, car starts without a problem and it is all back to normal. No motor/engine light on the dash. After this first issue, the car drove about 8000 km, some very long drives (2500 km in 24 hours) with a problem but mostly in warm weather. For me cold weather is the main reason but what might not be liking the cold? Have you guys got something similar? Thank you, Filipe from Netherland