Adoks

Thanks, I did have the top mounts done when the springs were replaced, as apart from the OS having a broken spring the NS was protruding at the mount turret, not worth not doing as these parts are cheap and labour isn't.

1999 1.8T SLXi At the start of the year failed the MOT for brakes (they seemed OK to me although I new that the NSF caliper was dragging. All new disks and pads front and back and a new NSF caliper, replaced front flexi's for good measure Noticed a strange rattle from rear, sounded like something in the spare wheel well. Couldn't find anything and didn't see anything when I was doing the brakes Returned car for MOT, garage reported that the OSR top mounting for the damper had puled it's mounting out of the body (no rust), they agreed to weld it, which was a reasonably big job. I haven't heard of this problem have you? I expected everything would be good for a while, but soon after this the exhaust started blowing, transpired to be the gasket between turbo and exhaust, new gasket fitted back to normal. Then the exhaust dropped at the central support (non standard st/st exh with the standard support which had rotted) removed the mounting and replaced the rotted support with a bit of 15mm copper pipe, sorted. Bubbling paint on the front wheel arches was starting to become more visible, so I decided to do something with them before rust started to take hold. Sanded treated primed painted and lacquered, unless you look very closely or know that they have been done you can not tell that they have been DIY'd Next when collecting my daughter from work, she decided to put the passenger front window down, which made a sharp cracking noise, I stupidly operated it again which resulted in the window dropping all the way down and having to drive home with the window fully open. New second hand regulator fitted OK. a common failure I believe Then all the instruments decided to stop working, seems that this is common I decided to send instruments away for repair, so far so good now all working again. What else can go wrong, well the clutch seems a bit sharp to me so I took it to an independent VAG specialist, I was expecting them to diagnose the DMF as becoming worn and was anticipating a hefty bill, but they said they could find no fault, I still think the clutch is sharp particularly for the first few uses in the morning, but it doesn't seem to have become any worse. While the car was in the garage I had them change the oil pick up and the Gear box oil, it became evident soon after that the gear selection from 1st to 2nd was a bit reluctant, eventually after some investigation I decided to change the gear box oil myself using VAG oil, that returned gear selection to normal, garage is 30 miles away they said that they would change it, but due to the distance and that I gad already purchased the oil, I did it myself. Most recently a few weeks ago, a loud rattle from OSF, a quick check confirmed a broken spring, fished the broken part out and no more rattle, and car seemed to handle normally, but now and again when maneuvering at low speed with a lot of steering, a very disconcerting noise of a spring moving could be heard. So I decided to purchase 2 new springs, 2 new lower control arms (as the bushes were starting to go) and 2 new top mount bearings. Just had these parts fitted yesterday, I hope all is well. The car will be 15 years old summer of 2014, so will require cambelt etc replacing again this will be the third time and the car has only done 59000 (this is genuine since I have owned it since 2000 and it was a demonstrator when I bought it). Lastly the aforementioned clutch may need to be done some time soon. I hope I can get a decent period of reliability, as I like the way the car goes

Isn't this stuff for diesel engines only?

A bit like an air cooled beetle, not really loud, could hear more when driving with the window down £ 90 to a new gasket fitted, relieved as I thought it could have been a cracked manifold

Cant tell you how slxi compares to vrs, but I have had one since 2000 They map to just short of 200hp mine was done many years ago my fuel is 30mpg for a 5 mile commute and 35 on longer runs can reach 40mpg if you try so I would say fuel consumption is not much different to vrs Leather seats are a bit slippy and cold in winter (although they are heated) I like mine, although I have had a few problems this year normal Octavia stuff Electric window regulators Wiper pivots seized Blowing gasket between turbo and manifold Seized rear caliper All gauges dead Everything now fixed Looking forward to some reliability

Well, to update. I am still not fully satisfied with the feel of the clutch. So I had another look, after removal of the airbox I checked slave cylinder and hydraulic line Everything looks OK. Noted that on top of clutch housing there is a rubber cap, I removed it to have a look, can't see much there is no apparent movement in the flywheel, but not really sure if this is a valid observation. Anyway, I concluded that the sharp clutch feel, may be due to clutch friction plate contamination, so I squirted some turpentine substitute into the clutch (a bit unorthodox) and the clutch feel improved I have been driving it with the rubber cap off, to allow the turps to fully dry off. After a couple of days the clutch feel although not perfect has remained less sharp than it was. Considering that the VAG independent that I use reports that the clutch had no problem, prior to this action, maybe I can accept this condition until the clutch really needs replacing.

I have no direct experience, of a DMF failing, but the view seems to be that it's failure would be accompanied by some kind of noise. Now in my case there is no noise, but the clutch is much sharper than it used to be. I guess I will have to wait and see if this develops or not. Still not even sure if the AGU with 5spd box has a DMF or not, If I can not put up with clutch feel I may have to have new DMF (if it has one) and clutch fitted, but I don't want to do this until I am convinced that this is the cause, especially since the garage has said that they find the clutch OK

I will try and check this, but I fear that this may not be the cause, as there was no improvement after changing the clutch fluid. I can here some noise from the slave cylinder if the clutch is operated with the engine off.

My 1999 1.8T (AGU) 60,000. Clutch initial drive take up is not as smooth as it used to be, and I would say it is worse when cold Symptoms could best be described akin to pulling away in half a gear higher, requiring a bit more revs than was previously required, over 2k rather than 1.7K If you pull away with some enthusiasm everything seems normal. Strangely if you drive until car is up to temp then let it cool a bit say for 30 mins then drive it again the clutch feels normal with smooth drive take up There is no noises from the clutch, engaged or not. There is no clutch slip, and gear selection is normal. I changed clutch fluid, no change I changed Gearbox mount, no change. I changed spark plugs, no change I considered that if the AGU has a dual mass flywheel that it may be wearing. I took it to VAG independent specialist to check out who reported that they consider that there is no fault from their driving of the car, and that clutch function is normal. Does AGU in Octavia have a DMF ? Are my cars symptoms consistent with DMF wear.? Is there anything else to that I should check ? I have had this car since 2000 and therefore know that the mileage is correct and that the clutch is the original, car was chipped 9 years ago.

Anyone know the front caliper bolt size not the 7mm slide pins but the bolts that fasten the carrier to the hub. Head size is 18mm, but what is the thread and length. Alternatively anyone know of a supplier of said bolts apart from the dealer, which I worry will be over priced. Car is a 1999 1.8T SLX not a vrs Thanks

You guys are fast workers, I reckon for me it will be about 1.5 hrs per corner and that doesn't include any problems or fitting a new front caliper. Oh well sounds like the consensus is to get on with it, not looking forward to it at all, I may just bite the bullet and get the garage to do it Any sympathetic soul with a nice garage I could use let me know.

Well, it may come that, remember this is Scotland and the weather is pretty miserable, it would be good to have a dry place to do this work.

Is there anyone in Scotland (I am in West Lothian) who can help out with the use of a garage to allow me to do my brakes. My single garage is too small. Car has failed MOT need to do all disks and a caliper, working outside at this time of year may not be a good idea. Trying to avoid high garage costs, hope someone can help. Thanks

Hope some of you can help 1999 1.8T AGU, engine suddenly changed note when idling after driving home yesterday, drove round the block and no pull and rough idle, this does not change whether hot or cold. Disconnected MAF no change Swapped coil packs between cylinders no change Had local garage check for fault codes none found Local garage report problem is with cylinder no.3 Plugs checked OK Compression checked OK This seems to leave the injector or the wiring to the injector Anyone have any input on how to check injector Are the injectors a common failure Car is old but only 50000 miles all done by me from new All input welcome Many thanks

Thanks for the inputs :- Will pull ABS fuse to test Need to do disks and pads soon, although rusting on the inside braking surface of my disks always develops on my car, short distance work, I replace the disks every couple of years due to this Pads will hardly be worn, annual mileage only 5K Piston is acting directly on the front disk surface, caliper slides are free pads are free I really need pads that have a higher disk wear rate. Any recommendations for this, no race pads that need higher brake temp to work. Thanks Adoks