paul_7_7_7

Got this problem on my 67 plate Sportline280. The bushings being discussed, are they the mount bushing to part 1, or the bushings at the ends of part 4? thanks

My experience with the 280 on long trips across Europe is that ACC is doesn't look as far ahead and isn't as predictive so uses the brakes more when traffic is busier. On a quiet road at constant speed it makes no noticeable difference. As is often the case, fuel economy is more about how much you need to use the brakes that how much you use the throttle. That said ACC makes for a more relaxed drive when you just want to cruise at the limit.

Sorry hadn't noticed I'd chopped the titles, the second column is for dust rich countries. Here is an update. Service Intervals.pdf

Here is the information extracted from the workshop manual for all the service interval information for UK 280s Service Intervals.pdf

If anyone wants to know the truth about the recommended service intervals and exactly what should be done when they are all in the Maintenance pdf available or erWin. The pdf is a bit confusing to read and takes some time to interpret but all the info is there and removes the doubt you get about what the dealers tell you. If you pay the few quid to get 1hour erWin access it is plenty of time to download all the documents relating to your car.

£253 if this is a competition 😁 I reckon the driver profile for them is probably pretty low risk. Still more than I pay on the Cayman though.

Drop it in to your local tyre shop, they will be able to check where the leak is coming from (puncture or failed seating on the rim) and then advise. Chances are it will be repairable if it does have a puncture and be of no concern unless you are really driving the car especially hard. When you get to about 4.5mm on the front it can be worth swapping front to rear, that should see all 4 wear out at about the same time then you have free choice of replacement. My independent tyre shop changed me 10quid to re-seat a tyre on my other car when it had an issue.

Absolutely! - just surprised it was even more than towing a caravan. Same trip without the bike would have seen low 30s mpg. An to be fair if you knock the speed back a bit the economy improves quite a lot. But when you're doing 700miles in one day time becomes more important that cost. And the extra fuel is still cheaper than higher the bikes there. You just have to get off the motorway to fill up - french petrol prices vary even more than ours do - motorway was up to EUR1.86, whereas the supermarkets were as low as 1.46, on a 65litre fill that adds up.

Interesting that you manage 22mpg when towing - I managed 18mpg (280 sportline estate) heading down to the alps with 4 bikes on the roof, sat on ACC at 130kmph most of the way. Guess the speeds are lower when towing though - in UK at least, the french seem to ignore whatever they are towing and sit at 130kmph anyway and don't seem to believe in mirror extensions either. Was interesting to see the power gauge in the sport menu as while you don't feel any big difference with the bikes, the engine is a gem, the power was up around 60KW a lot of the time even when cruising at a consistent speed.

Pedal boxes are a recurring theme here - what affect have people seen on their insurance?

So does this imply that they build the car better if you spec an extended warranty?

If I recall correctly I paid £160 for it to be delivered on a trailer rather than driven down to me.

Rainworth delivered mine, came on a drive on flatbed. I had no issues, car had delivery mileage of 6miles. Only thing I would point out is that they forgot to remove the transit blocks from the front suspension - PDI may have left them there deliberately because it was being delivered by lorry and the driver forgot, or it may have been missed on the PDI. Either way easy to check - quick search on here will find the thread you need.

My local dealer collects the car and drops it back for £12

Depending on how you are with a soldering iron it is very simple to add the diode (search for 1N4007 on ebay and you will find the part you need, about 99p for 10), just cut the red wire on the lead that came with them and solder the diode inline, wrap with heat shrink and you should be good to go. Direction of the diode is important as the connection to the car's original cable is one-way, the stripe on the diode is the negative terminal, so assuming the red wire connects to +ve on the car, you want to put the led in the red wire so the strip is closest the the light. If you get it the wrong way round the light just won't work and you will need to change it over.