DaveSk

Seems they dropped the ball when it came to the most significantly flexing set of wires in the car.

Clever then. My bad. Also glad to hear that some thought was put into the design. Thanks for the info 👍

Well I feel like I've let everyone down by not following advice, botching it a bit, and probably only doing a temporary fix, but I just don't have the time, space or equipment at the moment. I struggled with the solder seals given the tight space so I ended up using some very small connection blocks. The brown and blue wire was the door speaker and the slightly thinner blue and black wire fix now means that I can use the windows from the interior switches. I couldn't join the thin white and violent wire. The loom is obviously a very bad design but it also doesn't help that the wires are all twisted around each other within the hinge and don't take the shortest path from A to B. I will never fully open my door again. Thanks for the help.

Thanks. Sounds doable. Cheers 👍

Thanks. Will do. Something I've been putting off for too long now. I don't mind a car with a few quirks but this is getting embarrassing.

Yes I know what you mean. 3 definitely broken wires and many with cracked insulation. And as you say, there's not much wire that I can get access to on the right hand side as the wires go into the door. Wishful thinking on my part for a quick and simple fix. I found a video where he gets the door card off in minutes. I'll have to suck it up and have a go myself. The solder seals are in the post so I might have a quick look to see if I can enjoy stereo sound and working windows for a bit. I'll start getting in through the passenger door as a solution! 😂

Ok thanks. Something like this? I get what you mean about adding extra length to allow for better flex. I'll see about getting the door trim off. Plenty of guides online.

Thanks

Hi, I've got 3 broken wires in my driver's door loom hinge. In terms of symptoms the driver's door speaker doesn't work and the windows will not go up and down from the interior buttons (both front windows from the buttons in both doors) but the windows will go up and down from the key lock control. I realise that it'll be fiddly work but would a small heat shrink (solder seal style) do the job. Thanks, Dave

As suspected by posters on a different thread about this, the problem was related to the bearing being changed without using a proper press. Possibly an air gap, but at an MoT a keen eyed mechanic spotted a bent bit of the steering knuckle (the protruding bits that the pads sit between). I've replaced the knuckle with a scrap part that included a bearing and the problem has gone. No juddering, no overheating on that side and improved mpg. An expensive ball ache hopefully solved.

As suspected by posters on here. The problem was related to the bearing being changed without using a proper press. Possibly an air gap, but at an MoT a keen eyed mechanic spotted a bent bit of the steering knuckle (the protruding bits that the pads sit between). I've replaced the knuckle with a scrap part that included a bearing and the problem has gone. No juddering, no overheating on that side and improved mpg.

I've got a pulsing wobble when applying the brakes that I feel through the steering wheel. It's at a constant rate that's directly related to my speed. It is variable in it's intensity but can be present from a cold start and can get more prominent after a longer drive. My first thought was a patch on a brake disc because I did have a binding problem that was eventually fixed but it isn't this. I've been reading about ABS issues and loose caliper guide pins but after a recent trip to the garage I was wondering if the following symptoms pointed to a particular cause of the problem. I had a hub replaced due to a caliper guide pin being loose which turned out to be a stripped thread. At the same time I also had my drop links replaced due to clunking noises over bumps. When I got the car back from the garage the brakes were perfectly smooth (ruling out a patch on the brake disc and isolating the problem to that n/s/f corner). This lasted for about 10 days but the pulsing when braking then returned. So it seems that everything was initially perfectly in place after the work was done at the garage but has since settled back to where it was? (During the 10 days I took the car on holiday and had to drive over a year's worth of speed bumps). Does this point to a particular part that could be the cause by becoming misaligned? Thanks for reading