djape92

then why do they sell 16v head only for 1.6 octavia? https://m.bestpartstore.co.uk/8325033-amc-cylinder-head and i didnt select 16v model, or the picture differents from the actual product? and its six cylinder pic and im pretty sure every 1.6 skoda petrol is 4 cylinder engine.... these spare parts sites are soo frustrating.

first of all hello to everybody, i hope you are having a great day. i saw a car few days ago it was an outsider, with 1.6 16v škoda, and i was like wooow and as i was wondering if i blew my engine head and thats the reason of slithly higher temp, cuz the it started happening after that accident i had... and i was looking out of curiosity to check on new parts and i have found one in uk... but its 16 valve head and i know that i would need need new camshafts more rockerheads, different side cover, longer belt, timing adjustments etc... and what if i do all that and make that happend even tho i doubt it already but who knows... what could i expect of it? would it run smoother? would it have better flow? would if affect my mpg? would it make more power? what difference does the 16v head make overall?

yeah i would like to buy mk1 vrs petrol but there isnt any selling here in my country, so i would have to go buy it somewhere else and bring it here :/ i wanna stay with mk1 because i wanna have something thats a sleeper, old car thats fairly good looking when you take care of it, but also is average design that doesnt throw attention too much but goes as a bullet.... mk1 is just that and thats the reason im trying to make it happend somehow. i ve got few mechanics that work on that car as needed but i first consult here to see if its possible, if its too expenssive, if there are some problems that are needed to adress, and if its good to do overall... but since you told me its too much work better dont do... i will stay away from it for now and later on see if things change. thanks for feedback guys

dont i need bigger wheels than these 15 inch that i have and bigger calipers, suspension correction or replacement, as well as the axles dash water refillment wiring, new ecu... which will cost me one whole used mk1 vrs octavia, which there is non selling here in my country thats used sooo if i want to buy one i have to buy from uk or something and than shipping costs and registration costs me like vrs mk2 that i can already buy here but i dont want mk2 cuz of maintance costs and i want old sleeper with this octavia that my mum bought sooo it actually is easier to just put the turbo on and hope for the best i think, or im wrong?

as i go short rutes with a lot of traffic turbos need to spool up and give me power, it already feels like that i lug the engine as i start even im in right gear as lowest as i can be and when i overtake it takes too much time to speed up and back to my road track, like im driving 1.1 opel corsa or something its dull i know that sized clip ring are one problem that causes dullnes cuz of compression loss but i feel that it just needs a little bit of boost after i finish replacing those so i can carry more weight and accelerate faster when needed... turbo could help me overtake at open road streight but its costly to just get that benefit of it, and using more oil for it is one more droveback which i dont like about it, so supercharger would do job for me more likely but if there isnt any to buy thats a tough blow :/

hey ppl sorry if im spamming topics or smthing im looking for the ways to improve my ride soo.. i have 1.6 l 75 kw petrol engine but its really not that responsive to acceleration, so i was googling on superchargers but i didnt find any just turbos were offered as a solution, any tips on how can i have family car with comfort but to be more responsive when i need it without having lag, cuz its laggy as it is right now, too much weight for the given power. it also has intake manifold over the engine head unit does that mean i cant supercharge it? thanks a lot! means soo much to me

Oh, okay. Thanks a lot for the info guys, thats very helpful

that means that i have to reengineer the physics and organise weight which is quite expensive and troublesome, so its not possible to order an engine only from skoda since i was that there are 1.8t and 2.0 skoda versions for 97 - 04 skodas, soo if i take any of those there are not going to fit my existing setup with some minor adjustments ?

well im wondering, if its possible to fit some bigger 4 cylinder engine with higher horse power than my 75kw 1.6 l mpi stock engine... im feeling its sluggish, feels like engine is working hard to move that sedan weight with spare tyre, winter chains and all the weight thats necessery to have in the trunk, if i add spare oil can if its oil empty since clip rings are sized, is it smarter to spare some money and get some decent twincharged super and turbo charged 4 cylinder engine 2 litres for ex. and maintain similar fuel economy and add more power when i need it? im interested on your toughts, is it a huge job to do, can it fit existing axles, transmittion is it a too expensive journey to take, is it possible to fit bigger engine in octavia mk1 model, does suspention needs adjusting, what about brakes upgrade? i would like to have fuel economy as i do but gain in power when i need it, to make it more throttle responsive, but to let it be balanced and stable as it was i dont want to affect too much of the foundations, but to upgradea bit is it possible?

why do i get that mettalic mouse talk every time i let go of my gas? is that also tracking?

Well as i remember, some while ago i have hit a hole on the road with a little more speed as i didnt know it was there, didnt see it. i was talking to my mate and just after that i was hearing mouse talk metal tiny sounds squicking, but it only happends when a let go of my gas pedal, and the things i do to get the car out of balance, for ex. let go of clutch really fast or something like that. i also feel that car is more loose on the corners - doesnt grab on road as it used to it has a little delay on turning, so i turn a little sooner to take that turn which i knew i could to before.. i did change tires, nothing has changed.. the old tires did have a small screw onto one tire but i dont think its that... since i hear both front tires making noise not sure aboutrear but front 100% i did the tire balancing, assembled them and checked for any play on all sides and i didnt find any.. any tips or suggestions? thanks! in case you dont know i drive skoda octavia 1.6 petrol engine 75kw 2004 elegance model in case if that matters.

since i wasnt sure, i decided to go for a long trip to test it... and i went from brčko to belgrade which is 250 kilometers, and when i parked the car i checked for temp under the hood on intake manifold it was normal... that means that my fans dont work properly since their job is to cool if im at stop or whatever... after i let it work for a while just parked temp went up fast and i didnt see fan kick in to regulate temp. soo i think i have solved this one.. not sure cuz in cabin i still feel fast temp ups cuz of the heater, but i think fans are the problem here. So if anyone has the same problem check the fans first, thanks a lot!

local auto electrics shop - same place where you buy yourignition coil or spark plugs or something like that

I dont think pressure is the issue since its burning oil already the level will fall down quickly and the pressure will most likely be between piston, stuck ring for oil and the engine block than the cranckcase so the oil isnt problem for now, vents are my problem to cool down this engine since it operates strange at start, its rough and rpms jump to fast idle and after few mins get to low idle, and as it fast idles if i drive its rough and lights dims - go lower and back up like battery cant handle the jobs it has and as it drops low idle it dissapears.... Not sure if its normal xS

Hey its been a while and i had a job rush over the easter holidays so i dint do much, but i have tested the a Coolant flow as mentioned before at fast idle and it is getting coolant back to the bottle, vents do spin by hand but i never saw them spin by themselves... I already had this problem before and the guy told me that the relay was faulty and ground which is under the battery is corosive so thatwas the reason why it wasnt spinning... So last summer it did spin but over the winter it may become more corosive and made the same problem again... Should i check underneath battery for inspection or i would waste time dissassembling whole battery with battery case... Does that have sense at all ? Could that be a possible problem for vents to operate ? And which unit tells them on which temp to turn on... Can that be controlled ? By ECU with the computer or ?

They do move by hand altho there is a bit of ressistance, but i didnt see them moving as it heats up, maybe the sensor doesnt tell the computer to turn on the fans at the right temp. which is weird since they did change some temp sensor, maybe thats one for the cabin .... orrr it can be electrical grounding which did blow a safety relay for fan which was also changed ..... but i didnt write here one important thing, i did put some engine oil into engine before it has gotten wild ... maybe i overfilled the engine oil, so the catayitic converter has gone bad and is pressuring back heat and exhaust gasses into engine ... im not sure about this since i didnt do any tests nor i have the equipment for those tests, but i wasnt sure if the oil pan was full enough so i did put extra littre into it .... later on i saw label not to do that to avoid damage to catalytic converter but i didnt see any of the bad signs of engine working, its just i accidently stopped to see coolant level and brake fluid level - usual stuff and while inspecting i felt that in engine bay is hotter than usual ... any toughts on that topic ? is it possible that its going to work a little hotter and try to compensate for the oil and burn more oil at higher engine temp so it doesnt damage catalytic converter or it has allready damaged it in some way ... is it possible situation if i filled little bit more than max engine oil level ? Thanks a lot for the tip on the coolant test, and i did change water pump recently like year or two ago and the mechanic told me that he saw that it was new, so my bet would be passage blockage if it doesnt buble in the coolant tank. The reason why i dont mess with the fans yet is trying to avoid somebody turning on AUTO on airconditioning since it does turn on, at least it did few months before, the smaller vent but it also puts 20 degrees C temp for cabin. Since this mechanic didnt have floud for a airconditioning compressor to fill up after he dissassembled it he told me to use hot only. that makes harder to diagnose the fans problem since you cant that that smaller vent like that. what i could do actually is to check for electricity comming to the vents themselfs to see if they are supported with it correctly, which i will do these days when i find some free time. I think i did give all the info about this issue this time so its easier to diagnose since issues on a car are a bit complex since everything is evolved and every little thing has its purpose and fault of that part gives more signs and symthoms so it makes it harder to diagnose, but i hope i gave some important infos for consideration and to look at for better decision on what i should do next ... first i will do the 2 tests fan electrical and coolant test to check those two things out of the way since they dont cost me a thing to do

For now it helps a lot... Well they did open and hand pressed the hoses to see if the thermostat opened and there were slithe bubles as he pressed and released to the circulation is fairly ok.... But i didnt see fans working ... Eather they dont cool or i dont look at them at the right time :S

Anyway, we have got waay off topic... Is there anything i can do now to fix the slithe overheating issue or not ? Btw when i open the engine bay i smell engine oil even tho i didnt see leakage anywhere i could send you some pics if needed

Because if they were to repair the other half of the engine it would cost double, and i barely had the money for fixing this issue that was crucial, im still paying the bank for that.... But the thing that i dont understand is why didnt they remove carbon from pistons and valves since they could i dunno... So it was mainly the finance issue... Since i had a vechile registration needed to be done back than and i needed car for comming to work, i needed to fix it fast and for minimum cost

They did the head alignment and trimmed the distorted areas as they were processing engine block, but i dont remember them doing anything about engine breather.... They just said that engine would burn more oil because of stuck piston oil rings which dont expand, they are just stuck in and wont loosen... Soo i dont know if thats the reason why i have this overheating stuff going on and bit of burning smell into the cabin on higher revs like 3k plus... Also i do a lot of short routes - 30 kilometers going on my work and back home. I dont know about airlocks, since they were doing it for more than a month, i suppose they did that, also they did change the termostat and the sensor few days after when i came in their shop cuz radiator intake hose poped off for a second time - from coolant pressure, now hoses are tight, but the heat is there and no coolant loss... But as i lost coolant and was really close to them like a kilometer or so, i drove there and they told me that they are affraid of engine head being blown, they changed the thermostat and hoped for the best, i did hear some water boiling at the top and rear engine side but that stopped as we changed thermostat gained the flow... Still we had like 102-105 degrees C at the engine on the computer readings.... So it becomes really hot now but doesnt lose coolant

Also i dont know how would i do a test like that since i dont have that hole on my radiator... i have platic bottle with antifreeze in and radiator has horisontal plastics hor hose nad clamps so its sealed in and out .... i would be loosing antifreeze and pressure if i tryed it that way, i can do it at the bottle place... but i dont know where to buy tester like that here in bosnia, never saw it on any shelf here, so that might be a small issue

yeah the thing is i dont lose coolant at all, i just get the really hot oil spilled out to my intake hose to be sucked into throttle body, but it messed up my air sensor so i cleaned all that ... the thing about the situation is that engine head is really hot, everything is hot while its running for a while even air filter box and platic cover for the engine .... it wasnt like that until now .... but as i said ... the mechanic told me that they did all new gaskets on the engine, head gasket, oil pan gasket, crankshaft gaskets, since it wasnt lubricated as i had an accident the engine was stuck at the crankshaft and they had to replace all gaskets and trim the engine block and align everything so it can spin again.... they told me that there is nothing special about the head gasket and that its nothing special about mounting that it just clamps and sticks together with the engine block and engine head .... but i still get white cream under oil cap and it runs really hot even tho we changed the thermostat so my guess is eather i have blown my head gasket was set or i have blown the head of the engine or something since there is no leaks visible, but it runs hot .... when i sniffed the oil cap i wasnt sure if its only oil or oil and gas mixed, is that even possible to be ? should i try engine compression test or ?

Hey guys me again, I already told you about having engine parts replaced etc I also replaced water regulator and sensor for cabin temperature to show me the right temp in any time... What happens is that as it warms up and as I drive it gets really hot, plastic that protects the engine, air intake, electronic air generator.. everything.. few days ago I have found some oil in air line from air filter to the intake system, so I guess that's the reason for overheated intake, not sure... It also leaves white cream on the oil cap... I didn't see fans working and the pipe from radiator to the engine is hot almost as the engine to radiator is.... That's perspective from engine bay... Now cabin, in cabin it's all good .. it shows 90 degrees C, working temp which is great, but I noticed that I had my air conditioning turned off but I was still getting heat, like I lightly left it on.... As I rev high it gives me slithe burning smell as something is burning but lightly ... Any ideas how to fix or what to look for ? Engine is 1.6 petrol bfq 96-04 and 75kw

Hello, happy to have a part of the škoda community, i hope you will have pleasent expirience with your new pack of wheels, enjoy the ride

Does anyone know how to fix the audio signal thats used when i turn the indicator of turning left or right... cause when i indicate a turn after that i get random clicks (random knocking) - reapeating of the left/right sound... any idea how to fix these annoying sounds ?