pavan_h

Hi Friends, Today, I had a very bad trip experience. I took my MK2 to a trek nearby. To my horror, the road was full of potholes and the weather was way harsher with heavy rains. Quickly after few KMs, MFD showed me the glow plug sign with Engine Fault Workshop error. The car lost power but worked fine later. Also noticed that AC immediately started blowing hot air which was humid at 18.5 degree celcius. Are glow plugs issue related to AC? Also, it built up lot of fog inside the car as I had to close the windows due to heavy rains. Defogger was not working then. After reaching home, I observed that my Power Window of driver end stopped going down and I had to push it a little down but later it won't go up. I had to fix it manually so that no debris go inside after parking. Any suggestions on what can be wrong? Thanks!

@KenONeill @sparky2 @stratosg The car driver door lock works with key better than remote right now. So, I am using the key. Strange thing is that I have to turn the key twice in the lock to unlock. Probably, some mechanism related to remote key at driver's door has went bad. I will check it at my mechanic's garage soon. Also, I have deactivated the setting of auto door lock as of now so that I am not stuck inside. It is working fine as of now also kind of like a bypass. Any idea how to open the boot from inside? I am not finding any button for same. While going office,there is a security check at entrance daily to check the boot and I have to turn off thr car and get out and open the boot with the key. Thanks!

Hi Members, I own Skoda Laura MK2's Indian version which is Skoda Laura. I am facing some unique problem, not sure what it is- the driver side door lock works only sometimes. I have to pull the latch like multiple times, then it engages and the door opens. It's same from inside and outside. Thr central lock from remote key works fine. Rest of the other doors also work completely fine. What can be the issue? Its giving me lot of troubles now as in emergency I have to get out of passenger door which is really awkward and uncomfortable for a 6 feet tall guy like me.

Everyone, The problem is solved by replacing the Gear box now and Flywheel. We tried to repair it in past 4 months but it was a very tedious task. So, we got in touch with one dealer in Mumbai city who sold us a working gearbox of an accidental car which was same make and type. I got it for 1500USD. The car is working smooth now. Thanks all for helping and suggestions.

@kenzone My car is still in garage. The mechanics confirmed that it is geaebox fault. They are planning to repair the gearbox and probably will be replacing it a refurbished one from the aftermarket. DSGs are not good, full of bugs.

@AwaoffSki Yes, I had posted a thread earlier. But, thought I posted in wrong category. Sorry for that. The mechanics are just usual type of trained VW Skoda folks. The garage is independent one and quite reputed - they do repair Ferraris, Jaguars, etc. Skoda is like a pocket change for them. In my region, the authorized Skoda workshop got closed due to unknown reasons. The VAG COM shows no errors within the car, now after changing all the parts as per standard, they are planning to do the ECU reset as a final try (I dont know why they were little skeptical to reset the ECU before). If the problem is still not solved by the above process, they are planning to fit a used gearbox ( to save costs ). I drove many cars in my life, but this problem is something new and never faced.

My car jerks pretty bad when I switch the gear lever from Park to Drive or Reverse. After the initial jerk / thud - the car runs fine. Also, sometimes while driving I can hear lot of noises from the bonnet inside the cabin - not sure what the noises are about. The mechanic at garage replaced transmission fuel, filter, engine mounts, etc. But, the problem still persists. The car hesitates to move ahead as soon as I put in in Drive - when I hit the gas pedal, the car jerks with a thud and move further. The problem is bad when the car runs for like 20 to 30 minutes. The jerk is pretty bad when the car is standing still stop signal red light. The mechanic is now planning to do complete ECU reset to factory settings - I hope this resolves the issue. Any thoughts on what problem I am facing? Also, the workshop folks never observed such issue in their careers and are clueless. Thanks!

@HarleQuinn @KenONeill @TheClient Also, the mechanic suggested that there are some vacumm leaks, he will be repairing those.

So, an update - @HarleQuinn @KenONeill @TheClient and others... I went to workshop today, had a test drive. Bad news - the car is still jerking bad post mounting changes. We are now 99 per cent sure that the problem is gear box - but not sure what has failed there. Also, while driving for some time, we could hear the fast paced 'knock knock ' sound inside the car (very audible when racing the car and while at dead stop). The mechanic says that the sound is from gear box and something might have broken there. I have a doubt - if something is broken inside gearbox - the gearbox should freeze completely to work. The owner of workshop over there stated that he will perform a ECM reset of gearbox tomorrow - that might help. Let's see. Your thoughts?

Also, the jerking in Reverse has stopped - that is strange. Before it used to jerk in reverse also.

@HarleQuinn Oh, I see. Thanks. Yes, mine is in bumper to bumper. If every option fails, I ll go for a used transmission as replacement.

@TheClient It looks to be a transmission issue then. The mechanic told me flywheel was good. May be I ll have a opinion of other mechanic also when I get back car from this workshop. @HarleQuinn Not sure if it means, a violent jerk when I hit throttle when the car is just put in Drive from Park.

@TheClient So, wheel hop is what I am facing? Also, does harder time to get power to ground means - the early hesitation till I hit throttle a little hard? Sorry for too many questions, the definitions got too many technical jargons which are little difficult to understand and grasp :-)

@TheClient Yes, I agree. Prior, it was moving forward at idle in D mode and I had to press brakes to make it stop. No idea what's happening with this car. The mechanic told me that gearbox may need a replacement as he hear some noises when the car is put in gear. The noises are heard when he open the bonnet. BTW, what is the role of dog bone mount?

The mechanic has ordered a new dog bone mount and will be replacing it tomorrow. I will update all. Also, it looks this phenomena is called as Driveline Shunt as described by @KenONeill. Has anyone faced this issue before? From other forums, it looks many have faced this problem over DSGs. After replacing two mounts except Dogbone, the Reverse jerk has stopped like it used to happen before.