Magicdrshoon

Thanks Iain3!

Could anyone tell me what the lower bit of the boot is called please? I.e. The boot that opens when it's pretending to be a saloon car rather than a hatch. I've got a couple of large dents in mine and I want to find out if it's easier (or cheaper) to just buy a second-hand one that's the right colour and swapping it out, rather than stripping it down, strengthening it out and respraying it. I've tried searching for "skoda superb boot" but all I get is inserts and mats. TIA

Thanks for your advice @chimaera! and for spending the time to look into this and reply. Very much appreciated! It turned out to be that bloody fuse! All I can think of is that as someone had wired the bypass relay incorrectly they compensated by also wiring the 13 pin connector wrong to make it work, so when I wired it correctly it blew the fuse (either that or I accidentally tapped the +12v to ground somehow - maybe more likely!). I did try leaving the bypass relay disconnected and connect just the trailer connector (black one) to the caravan but it still didn't work right. There are no fuses in 43, 44 & 45. I noticed they were labelled as for the trailer and was surprised there wasn't any there. I can't remember what number it was (39 maybe?) but it was the fuse for the rear wiper, which of course it doesn't have. I have another thread I started when I first got the car about it randomly saying "Check Trailer Bracket" - perhaps this was the problem all along! And it's never shown that a trailer is connected when selecting reverse (I don't know if that bit works yet - will find out on Tuesday!). Thanks again!

These are the modules. I would love to have a wiring diagram for the car - any idea where to get one? The connector that plugs into the trailer module seems to be direct from the main loom (I.e. Not aftermarket). Also, the reversing sensors won't work without this plugged in. The bypass relay seems pretty standard. Note: this photo shows the wiring before I disconnected it. I added the black tape to the left-hand orange wire so I could distinguish it from the other one!

I've unplugged the trailer module (52502504C) and the bypass module, cleared all the faults, then reconnected the trailer module and at least the car is now behaving normally when the caravan isn't connected. As soon as I connect the bypass relay (specifically the +12V) the dash shows bulb errors and starts misbehaving again. With both units disconnected there's 0V on this wire that's supposed to be the +12V feed for the bypass relay, and when I plug the trailer module in it goes up to +4V. The bypass relay seems to have been wired incorrectly before too, with the fridge power going to 2 on the relay. I've also spotted that I have a 15A fuse blown which may or may not be related - for the rear window wiper (which the hatch doesn't have!).

I plugged a different car into the caravan which has confirmed the caravan is working fine. I do have to use a 12n/s to 13 pin adapter as the caravan has the old 2 connector wiring. The car is an L&K edition 2.0 diesel with DSG.

I have just replaced the 13 pin socket on the back of my 2013 MK2. Turning the lights on in turn, I used a multimeter to test the individual pins to make sure they are all wired correctly, including the feeds and resistance checks on the grounds. When I plugged the caravan in to test on that, a bunch of the lights weren't working (none of the lights on the left side and neither break lights) and the car is complaining about several bulbs going. Plus, for the first time it's gone in to towing mode where when you select reverse it shows a picture of a trailer attached and it deactivates the reversing sensors - and it's stuck in that mode whether the caravan is connected of not (as are the warning lights for blown bulbs). I've cleared the faults on the canbus but it still thinks the bulbs have gone. The car's bulbs haven't gone and they work perfectly, but the left indicator clicks inside the car at double time, but flashes normally on the exterior (both front and back). I tested the voltages again on the connector, only this time they are not showing where they should be. Not in the wrong place, just not where they should be - the left indicator has no voltage switching on and off on that pin. We're supposed to be off to France in it in the next few days so need to get this sorted ASAP! I'm beginning to think either an issue with my dodgy wiring (or I've disturbed someone else's), or one of the control units has coincidentally gone faulty (it's been occasionally flashing "Check trailer bracket" since I got the car many years ago). Any insights or ideas would be greatly appreciated.

I've wondered about this too - mines a DSG and I expect it'll cost a fortune to change. I noticed that knocking it into neutral while I'm waiting at lights seems to take a small load of the engine so that's a thing I do now in a bid to extend the life of the clutch as much as possible!

Nope - Came up again today 😕

I've just been looking and noticed that the photo @IanJposted in this thread back in 2019 shows where it goes 👍

I've taped it up for now as I need to get the car back together. I'm guessing it's something to do with an airbag somewhere as the airbag light is on now. The good news is that the electric window works 👍 Thanks for all the previous posts and especially the doc from @superbdreams! Couldn't have done it without all this info!

So close! Can anyone tell me where I'm supposed to plug this connector in to please? I thought it'd be obvious when I took the door card off as it could only go one place, but I can't find anywhere for it to go!

Well what do you know! That works! I just took it out again as the outside pin fell out as I pushed the inner pin in and had a good look at the nylon lift - it does seem to be tapered to allow the window to be push-fitted with the pins in place. Just take the inside-edge bottom window trim off (just pull upwards), that lets you take the window out (for front near-side door anyway - not sure about the others) Place the outside pin in first, then press the inner pin in (I used a pair of grips - VERY CAREFULLY!) just like the guy in the aforementioned video did. Put the window back in and refit the trim. Use something to hold the window in place while you refit the regulator - I used a pump wedge (not too pumped up obviously! these things can and will bend the door if you pump them up too much!) like this https://www.screwfix.com/p/hedgehog-easy-air-wedge-inflatable-lifting-levelling-tool-170-x-165mm/6548k Gently lower the window until you see it press against the nylon window lift. Use something to hold the nylon window lift in place whle you push the window gently down and it clicks into place. Do the same on the other side. I just need to put the rest back together now to see if the bloody thing works! Fingers crossed!

Just looked at the YouTube video @Cain0z posted a link to back in 2017 early on in this thread on removing a window - that guy put the pins in before he refitted the window. Looking at the nylon window lifts it doesn't seem like that would work (although it'd be great if it did!)

I got it back in - for some reason I was convinced that the nylon window lift should have been facing towards me - which was wrong! I've had the whole mechanism in and out half a dozen times because of butter-fingers here dropping screws and pins inside the door - I'm getting quite slick at it now! I remembered an old trick of putting masking tape flat over the end of the TX30 bit before pushing the bolt onto it to make it such a snug fit on the bolt head it sticks there better than a magnet. The nylon pins (outer and inner); what's to stop the outer pin pushing out when I push the inner pin in?