twostrokemick

All PD skoda scouts have the BMM pd 8 V engine with DPF. TSM

Offset is 45 mm

It is down the hill I am thinking about. Here we get rain on to frozen roads to give sheet ice. I am concerned that the winter tyres will no be sufficient to allow for control. Tsm

I cannot see the reason to use socks if the car has good winter tires. I have two iceey hills to climb Tsm

I have just changed the rim from the 17 inch 225 summer tyres/rims to 16 inch with 205. The rims are 6.5 j( 16 inch) there is circa 23 mm clearance between the tightest point of the Tyre to the shock. I have read on this fourm that 16 inch with 6 j rims can take conventional snow chains. I am surprised that the use of chains is limited to 6 j rims. My 16 inch are rebranded Audi rims. I have read on snow chain retailer sites that 16mm is required for a 9 mm link snow chains. I have purchased the michellin easy on Evo 7 despite some very negative reports. If I need chains it will only be for about a mile. Clearance for discussion please Regards Tsm

When the haldex is been serviced get the fluid in the near diff changed also. Be sure your mechanic also changes the haldex filter. If going to a skoda garage do not assume that they are aware of the requirement to change this filter. Tsm

I have a 2008 pd disel scout. This winter I will be fitting fallen euro winter tires. These tyres are going onto Audi 16 in rims 7 j width and offset of 45 mm. My question is Is this good enough for the British isles? Has any of the form members been beaten by winter conditions when with winter tyres on the scout ? Did you need the snow chains? It would appear that snow chains are not suitable for a 7 j rim ( conventional chains). Thoughts please Tsm I live on the west coast of Ireland and am thinking of ice on hills. I.e when it rains on a frozen road to leave a sheet of ice

The history of oil change is very important. If this is the bmm pd engine as the wrong oil will result in preamature cam shaft failure. Mine went at 122000 mles. I purchased the car about 6 months ago. On the way home from the garage the dual mass flywheel failed. I attribute this failure to 1 the milage 2 pulling g boats up steep slips 3 showing off and accellerating hard from a wet juntion and feeling smug about all wheel drive. I say factors 1 & 3 where the main cluprates Cost for timing belt water pump and cam shaft replacement 950 euro Estimated cost for clutch and flywheel repair circa 900 to 1000 euro I have to say I love the car but I feel that a service history is more important in the scouts than most cars. If the car has a skoda history then engine oil should not be a problem. However a lot of them do not know how to service the haldex system fully. The fluid will be changed but no filter will be intalled. This can cause problems with binding of the rear diff. A service of these units is easy Tsm

I wonder if the anti stutter valve is closing and staying closed thus preventing the engine from breathing. I believe you have two problems 1 the car is stalling for reason unknown 2 the car is failing to start after a stall Is the car turning g over but not firing? Tsm

Replaced cam shaft about a week ago on a 2.0 pd BMM skoda scout. The car had a bad miss fire. First I thought is was a dirty EGR cleansed it no good. Then changed the loom for the injectors. These used a very good polish mechanic and he changed the cam shaft. Problem solved. However the problem would not show unless the engine was warm. TSM

Hello All Some time ago I read about a heat type shield to help to shorten up the warming up time of diesel skoda cars as there was a general though that they are very slow to warm up and in particular defog the windows). To this end I have started an experiment which I have been running for some time. I have a lot more experimentation to do before I can post conclusive results but here are the details thus far. Test subject: 2008 skoda scout with circa 122000 miles. This car has a diesel PD bmm engine (2.0 liter) I use a hand held infra red thermometer to take my readings. The reading that I take are as follows: 1) The water temperature at the gauge (dash) 2) I have a mark on the metal housing which holds the oil filter. I take this as the oil tempature 3) At the the base of the housing which holds the oil filter there is a heat exchanger (some call it an oil cooler) The following is a summary of my observations Open road driving when the engine is up to tempature Gauge temp 90 degrees C Oil temp 81-83 degrees C Heat Exchanger 83-84 degrees C Open road driving when the engine is up to tempature Gauge temp 90 degrees C Oil temp 81-83 degrees C Heat Exchanger 83-84 degrees C Town driving Gauge temp 90 degrees C Oil temp 90 degrees C Heat Exchanger 90 degrees C I take the same route into work each morning (mix of rural and urban) (3 mile run) Air temp circa 13 degrees C Gauge temp Oil Temp HE temp 1 mile less than 50 39 45 2 miles 70 51 60 3 miles 90 66 72 Open road narrow country roads (Air temp circa 9 degrees) no load on engine Gauge temp Oil Temp HE temp 1 mile less than 50 34 37 2 miles 58 45 50 3 miles 75 55 62 4 miles 88 65 72 5 miles 90 71 77 Idle car to warm up no electrical load (air temp 12.5 degrees C) no loads on engine Time Gauge temp Oil Temp HE Temp 0 min less than 50 15 15 2 min less than 50 17 17 3 min less than 50 20 22 4 min less than 50 23 24 5 min less than 50 30 31 9 min less than 50 38 40 10 min less than 50 40 42 The above is a summary of the information obtained to date. It does not contain any cold weather data but it is a very useful base line.Of particular note is 1 mile of country driving gives you an oil temp of 34 - 39 deg C, Heat Exchanger 37 -44 Degrees C (Gauge less than 50) and 10 minutes of idle time gives an oil temp of 40 degrees C and Heat Exchanger temp of 42 degrees C. Thus the practice of extended idle times to warm up the engine would appear not to be a good practice. I will post more information when I have it. Thoughts and observations on this date/ conclusions Regars TSM

The following works was done for 950 euro 1) New cam shaft and associated bits 2) New timing belt 3) New water pump 4) oil and oil filter to be changed after 500 miles Regards TSM

Are all clutches/ flywheels equal or are some tougher than others or are there some DMF which should be avoided?

I believe that my dmf is showing early signs of failure. Having just spent 950 euro on a new cam shaft timing belt and water pump I would like to put out this expense for a while. Questions: Can a faulty dmf be left for a while or will it damage other components (not talking clutch)? Can a replacement smf be used to replace a dmf on a scout? The turbo is whistling would it be easier to replace the turbo when the gear box is out? Any suggested works when the gear box is out eg dpf removal etc? The car is a 2008 pd 2.0 diesel with 120000 miles and I use the car for towing a rib boat Tsm

Is the oil heat exchanger on the PD BMM engine watercooled?