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green beard

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Everything posted by green beard

  1. Hi Lee thanks for pointing this out, my car is different to this, maybe it's the engine code? Mine isn't a vrs it's an older slxi with engine code AGU. My sensor screws in from the right side at a right angle. It's still at the top level of the housing but doesn't screw in directly on top. Nice and clean under your bonnet! Looks like you have a new dipstick fitted? can you tell me if changing it is an easy job (the metal part that is splined into the block) as I have a new one sat waiting to be fitted here.
  2. Changed the pressure switch yesterday and there was no oil present after unscrewing from the filter housing. Just for information you'll need a 24mm deep socket and there's enough space for a chunky impact socket if that's all you can source for the job (that means me) Bit fiddly to get to but after unclipping the various electrical flexible conduits you should have enough space to get a ratchet/bar in there.
  3. Yes that's the one, top of filter housing. I thought I'd be OK but best check it out first eh? I'll post back after I've done the job just to confirm our thoughts. Thanks Trevor
  4. I have an oil leak which appears to be coming from the oil pressure switch, so I'm going to replace it. Can anyone tell me, do I have to drop the oil and/or filter to avoid a spillage or can I get away with a quick out with the old and in with the new?
  5. AP suspension kits £260 from Venom Not fitted these myself but I will need something quite soon and I keep coming back to these after looking around at other stuff. oh just springs! sorry, Apex? http://www.venommotorsport.com/manufacturer_product.php?manufacturer=Apex&category=suspension&product=LoweringSprings&make=Skoda&model=Octavia
  6. To be honest mine feels fine apart from having to shift down a gear for hills but I think this is ok and it's me not being used to petrol cars as my last ten years have been in diesels which give good torque at 2000 rpm. I had my Fabia for 6 years from new and it had more torque, more power and more gears than the Octavia, so it's bound to feel different. Once it's revving the Octavia is great. Recently I have made a journey of a few hundred miles with a friend, two mountain bikes and all the gear and it still pulled strong to the redline on the motorway no problem. So unless you get a very low reading or have lots of weight to carry regularly I would have thought you'll be OK.
  7. Ah, right so it is on the low side like he said but still ok. I'm not rushing out to buy new piston rings just yet. How does yours compare, have you tested it yet?
  8. Ignition Module replaced with new and been running fine for the last few days Regarding compression test, mechanic could not recall the exact figure but told me 150psi is the norm and all 4 cylinders were slightly lower than that - he says nothing to worry about - no reconditioning of the head needed - normal for the mileage, 90k miles. Probably piston rings? Does anyone else have any views on that?
  9. 1 this is where the unit lives on the back of the airbox 2 close up 3 I disconnected the ICM, MAF and the air hose clip - 2 screws on airbox and the lid comes off 4 this the heatsink for the Ignition Control Module viewed from inside airbox lid 5 I used a small terminal screwdriver but a knife would probably be better, use caution here as inside is very fragile as you will see 6 inside the unit - hopefully you can see the broken wire on the second chip - you need to identify which wire is the problem and try and solder it back on to the pin - good luck with that - I couldn't do it but others have.
  10. I don't know but I still owe him money for having a look so will ask when I go pay him - also I will take the ICM and show him how my car works LOL! Are you interested to know what is considered to be a low reading?
  11. Thanks for the take care warning Turbo_Boss, sadly I got stuck into this straight after my last post and have done everything you have said to avoid! But, it's definitely the problem - I found the broken wire - snapped off at the edge of the pin, you could see the other bit of wire still fixed in place - I tried to mend it but after an hour of trying to solder it back on I have given up - thought I had it a couple of times but was a dry joint or similar. As you have said, it is possible but not by my fair hand. With my trying for so long the wire was getting very fragile and I was afraid it would snap off from the chip type thing it's wired up to. Combined with the plastic case being a long way from it's original seating I decided to get a new one. Thankfully a good quality Beru replacement is less than £70 so compared to your $450 not so bad? I did take some pics so I will try and get them up so people can see what they're dealing with?
  12. OK cool, I'm going to have a look at fixing this myself. Found soldering iron - 60w! I'll take some pics and if it all works out I'll try and get them up here.
  13. The thread is in Skoda Classic Project Journals part of the forum.
  14. I will have to look tomorrow. Tom has mounted his at the back of the engine bay on a big heatsink from an old hifi amplifier I think. It looks to be about 100mm x100mm EDIT: looks to be a bit smaller than stated and mounted on the wheelarch
  15. That's exactly what I needed to hear! It all makes sense now. I don't know if you have seen Teflon Tom's Felicia build thread? He has put AGU in there and mentions mounting this Ignition Module on a large heat sink as they are prone to blowing up. Might be something for us to consider? Thanks again.
  16. Well, I know where that is at least! You sound very sure of that, can you explain a little more?
  17. If you need new rear bushes, get Fabia Mk1 VRS bushes, they are stiffer without making the ride uncomfortable.
  18. Hi and welcome to Briskoda. I have an estate with 1.8T, not a vrs but not that much down on power, it's old but feels fine at motorway speeds. However, I have replaced both front wishbones and the rear bushes, so all the suspension bushes and the front bottom ball joints are new. Also tyres on front match a couple of uniroyals and a pair of budgets on the rear. If all the bushes, springs and tyres check out ok I would say look at the rear dampers. On my Fabia VRS I had Koni Sport kit on it and one of the dampers at the rear was soft - got it replaced and car was a lot more planted under acceleration and at speed. By comparison the car was dangerous beforehand, which seems to be what you're saying. Not that Koni would listen to any of that - lifetime guarantee my arse!
  19. VRS ECU not work - OK I'll settle for just a car that works! Ah ok that's great I'll check the wiring out. This is going to sound a bit pathetic but could you tell me where the ECU lives? I have just had a look and it is not under the bonnet like my old Fabia and pics of other cars I have seen! Thanks.
  20. Hi all I'm looking for some help with this misfire on my 14 years young Octavia Estate SLXi engine code AGU. It has been there a few days and at first it ran ok when cold but now it is misfiring all the time. I have swapped the plugs and switched the coil packs around and the problem is that cylinder number 2 is not getting the message to fire. I have had this confirmed by my local mechanic today and he also checked compression on all 4 cylinders while he was at it, he says they are all slightly on the low side but it's nothing you wouldn't expect and there is certainly no major problem with the engine. Mileage is just short of 90k. Also he inspected the wiring and sprayed some contact cleaner on there just to make sure. There are no fault lights displayed and has been running fine right thru the rev range during my year of ownership (10k miles) Do the wires to the coils come straight from the ECU or is there something else in between? If it needs a new/working ECU does it have to come from a car with same engine code or will any do (for instance a VRS - might as well!)
  21. Yes it's due to water ingress (not sure where from exactly) and it finds a home in the plug/socket for the window control unit and corrodes a pin on control unit and/or the wire/connector on the loom. In my case both affected. Mine's a SLXi Turbo, so not 100% it would be the same anyway.
  22. Interested in driver's door window regulator, well just the motor/control unit really if you don't mind splitting? Also driver's door loom if not already claimed. Thanks
  23. Yes it was a good courier too, interlink express - good communication via text/email and arrived about a day and half after ordering. It was just the best deal I found on ebay at the time. Today I had a look into the problem a bit further and have found that I need a new window lifter mechanism as the cables have been chewed and jammed solid and the clip smashed to pieces - ebay to the rescue again, mainly so I can get the job done as fast as possible and bin the flappy plastic and gaffer tape. The motor works fine. Just under £25 brand new, delivered and a 2 year warranty. Hopefully I now have enough knowledge to finish the job - I just took it all apart bit by bit until it all made sense! When I mentioned it to my work mates there was much shaking of heads/ sharp intake of breath and stories about needing 8 hands but it's not looking too bad so far.
  24. OK after quite a bit of studying the various shapes of doors and glass for sale on ebay I can answer my own question and say yes it's different and I found a replacement for £20 delivered, which I am happy with and will surely look better than the black plastic and gaffer tape 'window' that I fitted this afternoon! Thanks for looking.
  25. Had a bit of a setback while trying to mend the driver's side rear electric window and now I need a new glass too! Can somebody tell me if the hatch and estate door glass are the same or different? (the main window glass not the quarter panel glass) Cheers
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