clutchtime

I re-iterate what you said, people get jitters when they hear DQ200, but they seem to have fixed the problem, the IS20 on my 1.8TSI with 300hp/420nm has done around 10k kms and still works just as intended. Done about 20-22 launches with the car so far, nothing wrong with any part of the car. But I must point out, the stock software does run the engine a LOT hotter, the oil on average is about 10-15C hotter in normal traffic compared to a simple simple tune to 230bhp/350Nm with no physical mods. In my experience, the reason I have noticed for such failures might purely be down to stock software and autos co.'s wanting better FE. At stock, The car regularly lugs the engine (60kph in 7th gear, WOW!) , the GB switches to 2nd gear and slips it in moving traffic instead of holding 1st for a little longer thereby increasing the load on the engine (increasing oil temps in the process) and causes more wear, heat, etc. to the clutch, GB, engine bay, etc. which might cause excessive heat in the MTU. Again this from my personal experience, I have run the following and based my observations on the same: 1. Stock ECU and stock TCU tune. 2. Stock ECU and Superchips TCU tune (not sure if it was Superchips or TVS) 3. Superships 1.8T tune to 230bhp/350Nm with TCU tune (as above) 4. IS20 upgrade with ECU tune to 300bhp/420Nm with TCU tune for the higher output. I had to restrict TQ for GB longevity. The car is a 2018 model and runs like new. My personal recommendation to owners would be to run a TCU tune with or without an ECU tune, it seems to solve all GB related problems that come with this GB (think clutch wear, MU, etc.). With that said, i must admit that the most key factors that affect a car is driving style and efflux of time. Just thought I should put this out there for owners scared of the DQ200. Cheers!

Thanks for the videos @Offski, but I made sure all the posts I read were either on a 1.4 or a 1.8 DSG 7 ea888 gen 3 engines only. The gearbox was the weak link in just about every post on every website. Ill share the threads I used to state the torque limit of the DSG 7 GB later on. TMG has Kevlar clutch discs for the DSG 7 which holds about 40-60% more torque over the OEM clutches. I was well aware of all the mods people do, both software and hardware and have discounted all such situations in arriving at my decision on a side note, does a diffuser really help? I was thinking of doing eCU tune, bigger Intercooler/DP (After a year or two) and then finally the turbo when im ready to get a new racing clutch. Does the order sound right for getting the best for the buck? I have already put stiffer sway bars and am tremendously happy how this car corners. Only wish it was RWD, and had wet DSG6, would've been the dream car for tuners. But its not and yet im happy

Thanks @flybynite I can confirm though that IS20 bolts right on. But the torque is more than what the DQ200 can handle safely. Contrary to popular belief APR has tested out the DQ200 and rated it at max 360-380 lb/ft of torque. (Cant find the link right now but its there). So technically its good for the IS20. On the flip side, my local tuner and APR Dealer advised me against the IS20 citing that someone had done something similar and had to reduce torque for drivability on a daily basis. In short they advised against it. I think ill do it outside of warranty and when I am ready to put down the money for a new clutch pack that will take the abuse of the engine. Any idea when I should tune the car? I have 3.5 yrs of warranty left on it, I understand the warranty will be void if something goes wrong but will Skoda do it under goodwill even thought the car is tuned? Thanks @Offski and @flybynite for sorting this out. Ill either do the tune or the JB4

Thanks Offski, ill be sure to get in touch with experienced guys locally :)

I used the exact same argument while buying the car with my family LOL. I was pushing for the VRS but its priced 5000+ GBP in India. And wait times are really long. I will be doing the DSG software too but I need to know if the part fits before getting my hopes high .

Thanks offski. I am considering the remap too but a bigger turbo will be a rush. I am thinking of taking the red pill soon ;)) But I will take your advice into consideration. Thanks mate!

Hey guys, So I have a friend putting an IS38 turbo on his TT and he will have a spare IS20 turbo soon. Its a 2016 TT, the one with the Matrix headlamps (or whatever suede calls it). I have a 2018 Octavia 1.8 TSI done 5k kilometres. I have a question, will it be a direct swap of the turbos in my oct or do I have to modify something else? I know new gaskets will be needed and the actuator will have to be taken from the IS12 turbo but anything apart from that? Simple question: Will it Fit my ride? Will my transmission take it? (its the infamous DQ200) Thanks for your inputs guys.

I managed to get superior handling and a extremely smooth ride by fitting a stiffer sway bar and using Michelin Primacy ST3, its got a curved sidewall construction which is perfect for bumpy roads and potholes and it sticks too. I had the Goodyear eagle series tyres on from the dealership and the Michelin have a very noticeable difference as far as ride comfort is concerned. The IRS with 16inch rims also helps keep the ride supple.

Ok so after contacting the manufacturer and understanding the specs, the battery is 14.4V and 96A when there is no load, i.e. connected to the charger. The alternator provides a current of upto 14.4V which is used to charge the battery, just like it would charge a Lead battery. Its a direct drop in replacement. Only issue is the battery only operates in an environment of upto 60-70C. Now where I live the summers can reach upto 40C and under the hood is only going to be warmer. I was wondering if anyone had a rough idea as to what the temperature difference is outside vs. under the hood. I only ask because at some point I will be dropping this battery in to replace the big hunk of lead simply because in doing so ill shave off around 18kg off the front end. I am in talk s with a local tuner for fitting stiffer sway bars and removing all the unnecessary weight from the car Just wanted to put it out there that Li-ion batteries are capable of replacing Lead batteries, FalconEV in the states was the maker of my battery and it has exceeded my expectations when I tested in a Hyundai i20 Diesel. Its Plug And Play! No mods and did I mention it weighs close to 2-2.5kg!? *Big Smile* Needed some advice from the forum members as to which sway bars would be compatible with my car (2018 Octavia Hatchback 1.8TSI 7 DSG). Its a front wheel drive car with independent rear suspension, in short, it sticks to the road! Lesser roll is welcome, I will be tuning the car to around 230bhp in a month or two, want to improve the handling first. All in all a great everyday car, only wish the fuel economy was slightly better :P

I do have one that charges and balances the battery but its been used in the car without needing any extra cables/controllers,etc. works just as a replacement.

Hey Guys, Ive got my hands on a lithium ion battery that was used in a Porsche 911, the battery is in good working order. Its a LiPo battery, puts out close to 14.4V and can crank upto 800A of current. Just wanted to know if its safe to do such a thing? Will any systems interfere with the change? Any resets I might have to perform? Anything I should know beforehand? Im doing the change purely due to the weight benefits, the battery barely weighs a kilo maybe 1.5 tops and is tiny! Ive heard the normal battery weighs nearly 20kg ! Is it advisable? I know the same battery was used in an e63 AMG before too so I know I have a good battery, just wanted to know if it would operate safely in the Octy. Thanks guys! Cheers!

Alright matey, ill leave it alone. Swapping the sway bar for one by APR to improve roll. Would you suggest the JB1 or Jb4?

You share my concerns. I have the 1.8 TSI motor, any idea which one of the 48 variants goes onto it? Maybe I can find some more detailed info on it that way.

Hmm, I think ill take your advice and not touch the ECU, too much hassle, ill just the car as it is.

Thanks for the input, I am concerned with some design flaws but most are restricted to earlier generations, im pretty sure the newer ones have all the bases covered but I need to run them in to know they're solid so that when I tune the car there are no surprises. I know its a VW/Audi under the hood but I am cautious due to the brands dubious nature in our country (yes, they have a reputation to break here in India). I have a professional tuner who is a friend who said it would be pragmatic to tune the car right from the showroom but im a bit too cautious. The defraud part is the other way around here, FYI :P You can read up many incidents online.