Grilled

I’ve seen you around every now and then! I used to catch more sightings when I worked in Wymbush. But I think we’ve shared car parks in Xscape and... Dunelm weirdly 😅 If Pete still has his that makes at least 3 SE’s in MK - and there’s a completely Stock one in Woburn Sands.

I had posted a few pages ago but just in case you missed it I bought 944 in March 2017. it was sold to Unit 18 in 2015 I think and I purchased it from them.

Never noticed it before, but that’s what happens when you start looking for problems - that and this is the newest vehicle I’ve owned, everything else is/has been pre 90’s tech pretty much! I thought I solved it today when I turned my air con off and it seemed fine, but noticed later the issue persisted but didn’t fluctuate as much. I was thinking maybe my DMF is in the way out, I don’t think it’s making a knocking noise all that bad however it is one of the symptoms of it (also stumbled across this thread which was useful). I needed to install my SRE clutch and new DMF anyway, it’s being done in two weeks so I guess we’ll see if that resolves the issue then.

So little update, after new turbo being installed there’s no longer any smoke. However it is still hunting at idle sometimes! I haven’t driven it much since I needed a new downpipe and the one I had supplied with the turbo wasn’t the best fit, so after having the new one made and installed today I’ve done a little driving across town. Seems to once again drive perfectly fine then it like, maybe starts to play up at low revs? Bogging down pre-boost. Would the duel mass flywheel have anything to do with this, I noticed earlier when I was parked up and idling (when it wasn’t hunting) that the revs dropped maybe 100rpm or so when I depressed the clutch pedal?

I’ve a newer gtd2062vzk to pop in, however it’s a tighter fit than the gtb2060vklr. The silicone for the TIP doesn’t fit over the gtd’s compressor inlet and I can’t fit the OE TIP with a 80mm to 57mm reducer because it’s fouling on the aircon pipework 😩 I’ve one in the post coming tomorrow that should hopefully fit with the larger TIP, I need it on the road to my clutch appointment Saturday... it’s all go go go! It’s going to be horrendous to drive because the exhaust supplied is pressing up on the hanger bracket and I won’t have time to get it to a fabricators to sort it now - It’ll get there in the end eventually I’m sure but it’s all rather overwhelming at the moment!

I have a hardpipe kit with silicones all over including the air box to TIP (only because original one no longer fitted.) I left it a while to see what would happen, mainly if the issue got worse or reoccurred. Surprise surprise it came back in full force, bad idle and all! I didn’t want to pull the injectors off myself within the correct tool so decided to try and get in into a local garage that could but had to wait over a week. So I pulled the turbo off to check it over and sure enough there was oil all swirled about. Shame as turbo hasn’t even been fitted a year, I guess it was a dud but it was sat around too long to be under warranty now. Once it’s running again I can see how the idle goes but I suspect it was turbo related as well.

The rough/erratic idle has stopped now thanks to replacing the MAF, Just the the smoke to diagnose now.

I replaced the MAF sensors a couple days ago but only really made short journeys but already the idle seems better. I gave it the beans on the way home from work and afterwards the idle behaved itself staying steady where it should. This has now led to showing the symptoms, I’ve attached a video showing the smoke on idle (again only when warm) it’s looks like blue/white do yeah oil and possibly overfueling? Once again when driving it’s fine and no signs of blue or white smoke. IMG_7832.MOV

Haha yes it is but still it’s an incredible motor, if I wasn’t looking to upsize in the next two years or so I’d consider getting one. Would obviously have to be better spec than my work colleague (who is also my senior) 😂 Is there a way this could happen after it has been running ok for several months? It’s odd it just started occurring out of the blue but I only drive to work 6 miles most of the time and during the lockdown the roads were empty so never had to stop could’ve taken my a lot longer to notice the symptoms. It’s coming up to 147k and has a really good service record before and during my ownership. Valve seals have crossed my mind but I’d rather than be a last resort option (like turbo seals) as they are labour intensive. maybe sourcing some thicker PD oil could help identify the issue. Exact figures I cannot provide as I haven’t had it on a dyno. I have a torque reading from the vcds abs logs but not sure how accurate that is. As a reserved guess it’s likely between 250-280bhp? Now you mention the CCV I think this issue started happening after the standard TIP was replaced with the larger darkside TIP but in reality nothing has changed as it’s still plumbed in as standard. I’m not sure if the maf effects the idle control at all on a diesel but this is maybe where I’ll check first with new hardware. I sent a couple logs to Piotr from Xman turbos as he offered to look at them, he pointed out I’ve low boost (0.4 bar) at 2k rpm then 1 bar at 2.5k rpm. Not sure if that’s related or just how it was mapped to preserve the clutch.

Oil consumption seems rather minimal, is haven’t had to add any oil since its last oil change. EGR has been removed and remapped out correctly for over a year now. The injectors were sent off the United diesel where the nozzles where fitted and serviced, I got all the flow documentation back with them. VCDS hasn’t shown anything so far fault wise, things look within tolerance on the logs but someone had suggested to maybe look at injector seals or tandem pump. I have seen the MAFs need ‘servicing’ every afew thousand miles by cleaning the sensor, and after a few years they deteriorate and need replacement so I’d thought this could be an issue. The fuel consumption has always been a little lower than expecting since before the modifications and I’ve seen a bad MAF can also effect this. I had the turbo fitted for a few months before the cam and then the injectors so noticed there was a difference for each part. The cam without being mapped in made the revs more lively and it felt more punchy. then after the injectors got fitted and mapped in it really made a difference in power but I was let down by my friend who was supposed to fit my SRE clutch before so have had the torque limited lower down. A power comparison with my work colleagues Tesla model S is that with the turbo alone I had no chance keeping up with him (we share a few miles of different duel carriage ways on the way home) but since the injectors and cam I have actually been able to stay ahead of him and keep the gap - but that car is amazing I really cannot compete around bends or roundabouts haha. We worth both quite impressed with how the fabia performed (in a straight line at least!).

I’ve cleaned the MAF which caused no change, air filter was cleaned a few months back and is ok, fuel filter was done a while back nearly 30k miles ago.

I’ve been using the car to drive today and have noticed more symptoms maybe. It struggles to pull away at low revs, goes to bog down in any gear so I basically have to launch it at around 2k rpm or up the revs when in lower gears when pulling out on a roundabout etc. As soon as it hits 2.5k rpm and the turbo kicks in it’s a beaut to drive. No issues at all.

It’s nice people are still adding to it but it’s been a few years since the OP was updated, maybe a fresh one could be made?

So I’ve been having this issue on and off for a few weeks where sometimes I’ll find my vrs hunting when idling up and down. Cold starts it starts and idles fine, it even drives fine hot or cold it’s just when it starts to idle when I’ve stopped it’ll just hunting between 700-1000 rpm (or sometimes less). I had a new piper cam and larger injectors fitted back in January/February then mapped in afterwards and it has been running great until about 5 or 6 weeks ago. I am also getting a bit of blue smoke out the exhaust when this starts happening but only then, when I’m driving there’s no smoke of any colour (apart from black on hard acceleration). Can anyone help me diagnose the issue?

312mm front brakes suspension is really dependant on your needs but the eibach/H&R lowering springs are good with standard dampers. A Rear anti roll bar is also commonly added on as well. - Just seen this is a duplicate topic by OP, maybe it could be deleted

Switch’ll Be fine, I had this and had I replace my drivers side motor as the control module inside has a paddy when it gets damp it seems. Theres two types of drivers side motor, a two and three pin apparently so check your part number is correct Think the change in part is from 2005 from what I found.

Yeah they’re good and fit well, not sure there’s much else apart from that. May as well buy them new they’re cheap enough.

This one on eBay has the part number 6Q0 825 237 P in its description which is a number I've found on a genuine Skoda one. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F322857133800 theres a bit of a battered second hand one on eBay as well for £30

As there are products such as the USDM light kit out there that allow the indicators to be ran at 50% brightness with the ignition on (and off) at the flick of a switch, I’d hazard a guess it could be adapted to run side lights instead or perhaps you can DIY wire a relay to the side lights to energise when the ignition comes on. Maybe it’s possible to bypass the switch for the sidelights entirely and connect it to an ignition live instead. There’s a handful of ways to do this I imagine.

It’s pretty straightforward although I had trouble removing my original tray, it was just really stubborn for no reason but the drawer slid in no problems. I ended up half removing the radio (original one fitted). I used some plastic trim removal tools to not damage anything.

Is there a spring that can be Replaced? I had a quick search and found there’s two in the pedal apparently although I’d its a new pedal I doubt they’d be that worn. Have you tried replacing the pedal position sensor?

Yes you definitely can as I replaced mine with one. It creates a slight vibration though when driving which is a bit irritating so I’ve some non slip mat that catches it to stop it and also protects my sunglasses from scratching.

I can’t think it would cause much problem for most mappers but saying that my local VAG specialist told me they weren’t remapping diesels because of the whole VW scandal for a while! Still you’re right, I shall check first. I was looking at getting one from dark matter tuning, I’ve not ready anything negative about them and the cost after postage is £820, I checked turbo dynamics but it seems they only offer a Hybrid standard turbo but maybe a phone call is needed to get exactly what I want. I’ve read a lot of praise for Narco but it does seem a lot of their maps are quite smokey and that’s what a lot of people like (for some reason). Diesel powered are a bit of a trek for me but I’d travel for the right job so thanks for the recommendation. I agree with you that DMF aren’t the most reliable and as mine is on the way out it’ll need replacing with either option. At least with a SMF you wouldn’t need to be to careful about always changing down a gear when the revs are about borderline for the gear. I’m on the fence still about it but I’ve a bit of time to mull over it and research it. Definitely the SRE clutch though I’ve never seen anyone say anything bad compared to similar products on the market. Yeah we we all know rolling road figures are mainly a ****ing contest and vary from one roller to the next. If it can get me to work 30 seconds quicker then I’d be happy with that!

Yep on the front tyres it’ll cause the steering to edge to the side which is under inflated (I think). Low rear tyres make the car feel very vague and sketchy around corners roundabouts and corners, I’ve had a few scary moments thanks to a slow puncture It’s something that’s so easily overlooked but it’s free (or 50p) to fix! I try and check my pressures monthly at least to check if I’ve any air escaping over time. My alloys have some bad corrosion on the inside so I’m a little paranoid!

Handy to know that a stock gtb1756 makes such good power still, I think I’d still like the hybrid though as it should make a difference on spooling, hard to say if worth the extra but I don’t want to feel like I missed out when I had the chance. Sounds like the perfect set up to me, although I’ll probably for for a DMF as I’ve not personally heard up close or driven a SM diesel before and don’t want to take the gearbox off again! I’ve a spare downpipe with the decaf removed so that’ll do nicely. Where did you get yours mapped, they were happy running 240bhp? I’ve seen some reputable places quote 220/230 on the turbo’s limit but have seen many of the hybrids push way more!