Dellbert

Which are regarded as alignment bolts ? There are only 8 bolts that hold the subrame in and of those ony 2 have shoulders on them . Aingment or tracking would normally be by lower wishbone bolts . very strange

its perfect or it would be out again by now ..

make sure all the bearings are changed is all i can say as there was wear evident on all the bearings . interested in the costings if you are ok to share that ..

posted wednesday test drive Thursday so didnt need past tense posted how to get the cradle out but most on here wont have the gear to get the bearings out of the diff i wouldnt just change one bearing wear is present on all the ones i could get Aus numbers match up replacing rear springs is tricky and if i do another i would make some long bolts for the cradle (studs and nuts ) wouldnt try to take diff out without the cradle . realistically next one should be out in an easy day and the same back in plus a day sorting the diff So anyone else done it ?

i have

So has anyonyone had success in their rebuild ?

the waterpump could be caused by cating sand left in the block at the time of manufacture ..

Diff back in after rebuild test drive in the morning happy days

Cradle is loose or differential is loose in the cradle .

Was it like it when you picked it up or after a few miles ? Did they drop the whole rear cradle like i did (see my pics )? Are the driveshaft inner joints tight ? What exactly was done to the diff (which bearings and how many ) ? Is there oil in it (diff and haldex ) ?

on a ramp properly it should be out in less than 2 hours enabling a proper examination of the diff and the cross member (suprisingly limited paint protection on it ) on the floor i would think no more than 2,5 hrs (on the floor may be easier than on a ramp , no brakepipe seperation no drilling holes . i would sugest loosen wheels loosen driveshaft inner couplings remove rear exhust section support front section disconnect propshaft remove wheels remove calipers (pipes still attached ) unclip pipe from subframe secure calipers (cable ties ) to lower arm bloted to cradle (2 bolts each side (18 mm ?) under cradle mountings (4 in the sides and 4 int the body ) lower cradle then unbolt the diff and remove , use new mulispline bolts into the diff as the get rusty in the heads . complete remoal allows a proper clean inside the diff and haldex so no moe swarf . aparently full rebuild kits are availble in Czech alegidley ...

Watch the ausie video and read the comments its on there

Sarcasm is not intended But as for understanding the way the system works i take it it works differently to the other vehicles fitted with the system ? as i remember rebuiling quite a few land rover freelanders when the rear diff ratio wasnt the same as the front diff normally resulting in severe damage to the transfer boxes , surely thats why there is a recomendation to change tyres in sets to maintain a constant overall equality of tyre diameter ? What should the ratio be for an octavia 2015 when i strip mine i will count the teeth and check if they are all the same it makes changing diffs a simple operation but why the different part numbers ?

so all vw ausi seat and skoda are the same if you can dig that out of vag (i cant and know 2 high up techs) surely you can get the bearing numbers ??

i couldnt get a specifc answer which is one reason im rebuilding . if you have different ratios and the haldex cuts in at the very least you will ruin rear diff propshaft transfer box. if you really must ue the car fit outer cv joints remove diff and propshaft maybe ..