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Just to close this topic: I ended up tightening the WG. How to on a 4WD car (with bevel transfer box in place): Remove airbox, battery and battery tray as if you were replacing a box mount. With a long 90degree pick remove the safety lock from WG nuts (it will fly away. try to find it to refit it later). With a deep 10mm socket (and a couple of extensions) loosen the nut closest to the battery. I had to file down the socket tip as it wouldn't seat properly on the nut. With your hand turn the other nut towards the WG (1 turn ~ 0.1 bar). Now tighten the 1st nut with the socket. With a short 10mm open wrench (or bend one) hold the inner nut while you tighten the outer with the socket. Refit lock (I lost mine). Refit battery tray, battery, airbox and plug MAF. This is the easiest way I found to do it. Trying to access it from underneath seemed impossible as there is the transfer box in place now. Some references that helped me: https://motozaperformance.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/WastegateAdjustment20T.pdf https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/420536-Wastegate-Adjustment Regarding surge: seems pretty common on boosted K04. I'm still getting 15ish retard on ignition which doesn't seem to be cylinder retardation related at all. It happens when actual boost is about 200mbar over specified. 2.5 bar reached! Ignition retard when surging. Typically at around 3k rpm and mid throttle. Sometimes followed by flutter noises when upshifting. WG actuator with lock in place. Seen from battery side.

Recently I built my MY2012 Octy 2 vrs tsi dsg into a 4wd haldex k04 project. I will do a write up on the build but for now I'm facing an issue with my k04 setup. On the engine I used: Borg Warner K04-64 with a modified outlet (to clear the TSI block) (bought it used with 1000km). Intercooler upgrade (2.4" thick core) LINK 2.5" throttle pipe (from intercooler to throttle valve) LINK. EA113 DV relocation kit (like an S3 8p). LINK High flow Downpipe with sports cat. LINK OEM intake and airfilter. OEM backbox. I'm running a Revlimit ST3 K04 ECU tune and ST3 DSG tune. The ECU tune still needs tweaking but my tuner says I need to add preload to the wastegate to achieve 2.5bar of boost (absolute). I have tighten it quite a bit (12 turns?) and barely managed to raise it from about 2.1 to 2.3 bar. I'm starting to get boost surge and turbo flutter at 2.5 -3k rpm at mid throttle which makes me feel the WG might be a getting too tight. I think this can be tuned out with the n75. Tightening the WG is quite a job now with the transfer box in the way. Is there a way to diagnose a leak or too loose WG from logs? Here are some pulls and some "surges" I Iogged: https://datazap.me/u/etche/boost-logs?log=0&data=0-7-8-9&solo=7&fbclid=IwY2xjawMcOyhleHRuA2FlbQIxMABicmlkETE4cEZrc1duM2trUFRldTh3AR6uaK7sT0yZ1tKUSRPYvSZNlvGf_6gPd36vHobk3Nby3X2YltXyLrrRsbzM0w_aem_oJVWWY_IGD2O2xSP_t0F6w When surging timing advance goes negative! Video de WhatsApp 2025-08-12 a las 11.47.40_c62c6c56.mp4

Last Update: has been working fine these last months. Some logs after the hpfp replacement: Please mark as solved.

I fixed my issues. It was the HPFP. I replaced my Pierburg unit with a Hitachi HPP0010 (oem). It wasn't without mishaps though... It arrived with the connector busted. I could wait another month for another and pay around 150USD JUST ON DUTIES AND SHIPPING or try and fix the connector. Thankfully all the pieces were in the box and I glue the connector puzzle back. Looking back, I should have started by taking the Pierburg HPFP out for inspection. It did sound rattly and I thought it was overworking due to a weak LPFP, clogged filter, or bad LPFP module because it only had 1 year of use. Removing and installing the HPFP is a 30 min job at most if its your first time. I might swap back the original LPFP as it had a bigger baffle but keep the new module because it had a heatsink that the oem didn't. I haven't checked VCDS but I'll try to post the new logs when I do.

Replaced LPFP last friday. I thought I fixed it but I got a similar log as on the 5th of june and later testing showed that symptoms still persists..... Last night I removed my HPFP to replace the Cam Follower (roller type) as I saw a video of a 1.4 with my noise and issues. The original follower looked OK, I still replaced it with an INA unit (OEM). I tried cleaning my HPFP by energizing the solenoid and spraying injector cleaner (I saw a video of rs4 pumps being cleaned like this). This didn't help either. Comparing my Pierburg HPFP (10k km) to my old HPFP (Original) I found that: The Pierburg has a thinner rod. The Pierburg has a shorter stroke. The Original had its brass fitting cut for some reason. My conclusions are: The shorter stroke causes follower slap and the "chirping" noise and lowers its flow. The Pierburg rod might be slightly bent and not allowing it to extend its full stroke. Once the pump housing is warm the rod can extend some more and the noise and symptoms decrease. During carbon cleaning a piece of carbon might have gotten into the HPFP limiting its extension somehow. The slapping might have worn my Camshaft. Upon inspection I didn't feel anything. I just ordered a Hitachi HPP0010 (OEM pump) to replace my current one. It should arrive in a couple of weeks. I'll update my findings.

So I didn't fix my issue... My previous log was on an almost empty tank. Yesterday morning, just before I got to my office I filled up. On my way back home I felt a loss of power and logged the rest of the way. At low loads and hi-ish RPMs (70km/h on 3rd) the fuel pressures becomes very erratic. At WOT, the pressures just fall to 10bar and I have no power (before the filter replacement I would get a massive hesitation). I believe the LPFP is bad as only my fuel level changed between logs and I can only see the LPFP being affected by it somehow.

So yesterday on my way back from work I was logging fuel pressures, fuel pump duty cycle, and cam phase. I read somewhere that a stretched chain could cause fuel pressure issues. I'm at 4.38° which isn't great but issues seem to appear on the 4.8° mark on. Currently my HPFP pressures are on point during city driving. At WOT they dip up to -8bar and even the LPFP duty cycle rises to 85% approximately. I believe I have a weak LPFP as the problem almost disappeared with a filter replacement but is still somewhat present at high fuel demands.

Hello, I believe I fixed 99% of my issue: -I replaced the pump module with a Vika unit -> LPFP noise changed (not louder, just different) but sputtering and hesitation still violently present. -I replaced the fuel filter with a Xenst unit -> Problem almost completely gone! I believe I have a weak LPFP as I can still feel some misfiring under load at 2k aprox. Its barely noticeable. The fuel pressure at the HPFP still behaves the same as in the video but I noticed this: When cold: - LPFP duty cycle: 48-50% (after new filter). -Fuel pressure: ~3.5bar When warm: - LPFP duty cycle: 78% (after new filter). -Fuel pressure: ~6.5bar but increasingly "jumpy needle" I've seen that the more the HPFP works (n276 valve off) the more the needle on the pressure gauge jumps and more noise it makes. So my theory is that the ECU is trying to compensate a low flow from the LPFP with the HPFP. That would make the HPFF make noise at idle and could make low fuel pressure at the rail at high demand/low rev scenarios (HPFP not being able to compensate and supply the required fuel). I've read that on a warm engine at idle LPFP duty cycle should be under 50% ideally. Over 70% indicates a weak LPFP or internal leak.

Hello everyone, 2 weeks ago I tested the low side pressure near the HPFP inlet. My understanding is that it should be 6.6 bar but it oscillates around 3.5bar and then jumps to 6.5bar for a while. I believe the oscillation is due to the HPFP being a piston pump creating pulses. Here are some videos of my testing. Note that the pressure jumps to 6.5bar sometimes when revving. The video shows the needle slowly oscillating but this is a video effect only. It was jumping very fast in reality. Fuel Pressure testing 1 I read that somewhere that a guy with an A3 had a pump control module fail and had symptoms similar to me. This guy's LPFP barely sounded before the module replacement, sometime ago I thought that mine was very quiet so this might be a suspect. I'll start by replacing the filter as the regulator might be failing, then I'll swap the pump control module. PS: I believe the noise the HPFP is making is cavitation due to low pressure on the inlet side (the needle jumping reached 0 at times).

I read that stretched timing chains could cause issues with the HPFP. I just read -4.51º intake cam phase angle. This seems to indicate a stretching chain but it hasn't reached the ±5º limit I read somewhere. Also, I noticed that the chirping noise gets louder if I unplug the solenoid (boosting rail pressure) and goes away when replugging it for some seconds (until the actual pressure reaches the specified pressure). Then it starts again. This showes me that the HPFP under load makes the camshaft or itself noisy. I can't remember the "normal noise" for the HPFP. Further analysis my logs and symptoms; it feels as the fuel system isn't able to keep up the requested pressure at higher flow rates (higher rpms and load). The injector cleanup might have improved flow and worsen the situation. I still can't understand why it goes away after 25min of driving.

I also ordered a new 6.6bar fuel filter. I forgot to mention that my LPFP primes ok and Vcds shows 6.5 bar when I open the door (engine off). But the LPFP duty cycle with the engine running is at 79.8% constantly, regardless of load rpm etc.

Hello, I own a MY2012 vrs 2.0 tsi dsg with 140k km. A year ago at 130k km my HPFP started leaking fuel into the cylinder head so I replaced it with a new Pierburg unit and did an oil service. The cam follower (with roller) and cam looked OK and I didn't replace those. Now I'm getting a p0087 code. I run some logs and saw my high fuel pressures drop (actual) vs the requested pressure. Specially under load/acceleration. While accelerating I get misfires and a strong hesitation. These coincide with the pressure drops. Also, I now noticed a chirping noise from the pump which goes away if I unplug the solenoid on the pump, but the pressure shoots up to over 120bar (which leads me to believe the pressure sensor is fine). If I'm very gentle with the throttle I don't get these cutoffs and the pump seems to be able to keep up with the requested pressure. The symptoms are more evident when the engine is cold. After 25min of highway driving they are barely perceptible. This started happening soon after I did a carbon cleaning. I also did an injector reaseal and scraped off some carbon from the injectors with a brass brush. Is it possible my Pierburg pump is bad after 1 year and 10k km? I still have the original pump. Could I swap the solenoids? I ordered a new INA Cam follower just in case too (20usd at rockauto). The chirping sound has me worried that the roller might be stuck or something.

I found the issue.... The pin that hold the spider gears ate away its housing in the diff. The pictures and video talk by themselves. The slack I felt in the drivetrain could also be on CV joints or axle splines (I believe some DQ500s in T5s have this issue). VID-20240202-WA0038.mp4

Hello everyone. On march I bought a 2013 mk2 vrs with 125.000km 2 owners. DSG service done at 60.000 and 120.000km. It drove fine except for a bad wheel bearing at the rear and a leaking HPFP. I replaced both and serviced the car. I noticed a slight clunk when selecting D or R. Take off felt ok and gear changes feels great. I thought it needed a basic settings done to the trans. I tried a basics settings but failed the clutch adaption. The my clutch went crazy. It wouldn't stay on D or R without trying to take of with my foot on the brake. It would engage the clutch violently almost stalling (it stalled a couple of times) and release it. I was able to do a "driving adaption?" by driving in 5th and 6th for some minutes. The clutch went back to how it was before. I went to an indi vw mechanic I trust and he couldn't get the clutch adaption to pass either. He did say the gearbox feels great and that I doesn't seem to be the mechatronics. He suggested to change the trans and dogbone mount and check the axles. What I've done so far: - replaced trans mount. - installed a dogbone mount insert (Aliexpress). - replaced and balance tires (previous ones needed replacement). Current symptoms: 1- if I leave the car in P "leaned to the front" (facing a downhill for example); selecting D will knock hard, sometimes jumping briefly from D1 to D2 and back, but selecting R won't knock at all (it'd be perfectly smooth). They same happens the other way around: knock on R if I park on P "leaned to the rear" (facing an uphill incline). 2-If R is selected, I select N then R again I don't get a clunk. The same with 😧 D-N-D doesn't clunk. 3- trans slack: when releasing throttle or applying you can see the rpms drop or jump respectively accompanied by a clunk that you can hear and feel. On higher gears its harder to feel but on lowers its extremely noticeable. 4- vibration over 90km/h (maybe unbalanced wheels but unlikely). 5- additional vibration under WOT acceleration between 120-140km/h. 6- clutch engagement: at a red light I need to release the brake, wait 1-2s let the clutch start to engage by itself then apply throttle; if not it will engage the clutch too abruptly and the car will take off like someone learning to drive! This symptom is much more pronounced with a cold engine (2-3s wait before taking off). If I apply too much throttle too soon it will drop the gear and sturt jerking engaging and disengaging the clutch until it takes off or I release the throttle. 7- clutch on decel: you can definitely feel firm gear changes while slowing down. Specially when braking harder. 8 - slight whine on 1st gear. I believe I have 2 problems: clutch adaption and trans slack somewhere. Maybe worn clutches too. My mechanic said that the trans slack might be the cause why we couldn't perform the clutch adaption too. Possible suspects: - DMF: I thought of its Splines but I think it doesn't respond to symptoms 1 and 2. Plus I had a dmf go bad on previous octy 1.6 tdi and this one doesn't sound like it at all. -clutch pack/basket: on dirtbikes clutch baskets get worn and they start to drag and have slack, Dsg clutches are similar in construction to them. "Slack wise", symptoms should be as a bad DMF's splines so it wouldn't respond to symptoms 1 and 2. - Diff: I saw a bad dif where the spider gears inside had play. This may respond symptoms 1 to 5? - Drive flanges splines: on T5s this is a common problem and responds symptoms 1,2 and 3. I haven't been able to find anyone with this problem on a 02E box. - bad inner CV: this would respond symptoms 1 to 5 but I've been under my octy and checked for slack/play while having someone selecting R and D constantly and I wasn't able to see any movement between the flange and the axle. They feel solid and the clunk feels to come from inside the box. I'm not sure how to diagnose further. I might need to pull the axles. I've read that the o/s (right) axle is more prone to failure due to it being exposed to the turbo/downpipe heat. Has anyone here have had splines go on their DMF, clutchpack, drive flanges or have inner cvs issues? How did you pinpoint it? Thank you all in advance!