Teds

Thank you for the useful replies. I stop at the first click when I fill up so it shouldn't be that but seems more likely to be a failing sensor. I will watch out for the problem again and take it to the dealer.

Thanks for your reply. Yes, I think I had recently filled with petrol.

1.5 Euro 6 petrol engine (MY19)

A couple of weeks ago, the EPC light came up while I was driving. It stayed on for about 2 days. During this time, I arranged for the car to go into the dealer to be checked. Once I had made the appointment , the light went out and has stayed out once the engine has started. The visit to the dealer was booked for next week so I have cancelled that as it seems unlikely that anything will have been recorded. When the light was on, it did not seem to make any difference to the performance of the engine. Has anyone experienced anything similar?

I found out the hard way. I had a puncture about 20 miles from home. The spacesaver was put on and I had about 15miles of dual carriageway to travel. Set the ACC for 50 and potter along but it would not engage. I was concerned that it was a fault but once the normal tyres were on, the ACC worked normally. I was told that it is something to do with the system measuring the revolutions of the front wheels. With a space saver (and possibly a large pressure difference with between normal tyres), there is a consistent difference in the revolutions between the two front wheels which spooks the system.

Not much help with this enquiry but the ACC will not engage if the space saver tyre is on. (I tried it but fortunately all returned to normal when the normal tyre was replaced.) This may also occur if the pressure in the two front tyres is significantly different but that is guess rather than known for sure.

The output of the USB socket in my MY2019 is fairly low. It will keep the satnav or my phone going but it doesn't have enough power to charge them significantly if they are in use. I changed to using a charger connected to the 12v socket to charge the phone and keep the satnav charged at the same time..

I came across this one by accident. Skoda Financial Services is offering two services for £306 for cars over a year old. Skoda say this is a saving of 33% on the national prices. The servicing has to be done by Skoda dealers and does not include brake fluid changes. Details on the service plans page of the Skoda website. Worth a look if you use a dealer for servicing. Offer ends on 2 December.

Seems like it is 24EU which was supposed to get rid of the surging when the engine is started from cold and improves the low end torque. My car was updated about 2 months ago - MY19 SE L DSG - registered in October 2018. Mostly the DSG compensates for the lack of low end torque but it was a real problem on manual cars. Once it was done, I did notice that the gearbox would allow acceleration in a higher gear rather than change down as often. Noticeable coming out of roundabouts. Sadly it had only a very marginal effect if that on petrol consumption which is currently running at 40.71mpg since new with around 20,000 miles on the clock. It worth having the update done, but, for DSG cars, it was not a safety issue. My dealer did not tell me about it either but I knew of the update because it was a very live topic on the forum last year.

The engine type is shown as DADA and update was 24EU. On fuel consumption, I can't really give you a good answer because I live in a small town and try to avoid driving in the city. On clear roads driving at 50-60mph, the car will return about 45mpg. Driving faster on motorways reduces that to about 40mpg. In our small town, doing only 2 -3 mile trips, consumption is around no higher than 30mpg

My update was done was done about 2 months ago on a MY19 DSG. The wobble is still there but for a shorter time - only a couple of minutes. With the DSG, the gearbox compensated for low torque by dropping a gear or two suddenly and the gearbox no longer does that. Overall, I am happy that the update has fixed the problem. It might also have improved the fuel consumption slightly .

Thank you for the reassuring posts. I have driven the car some more since the original post and the sensors seem to be working as expected.

I have had a minor front end shunt when backed into my stationary car. There is no physical damage as far I can see but I don't know whether any of the fron sensors are out of alignment. They all see to work in the expected way as far as I can tell. Information about the following would be helpful: Contact was a with the bumper - does that have any sensors embedded in it? If it doesn't there is likely no issue. If there are sensors in the bumper, has anyone had to have theirs checked/or re-aligned and have any idea how much it costs? The car is a 1.5 SEL DSG with the driver assistance pack. This has the potential to be make a problem out of a very minor low speed shunt.

The Karoq was serviced today and the fault log came back that both key fobs were low voltage. It seems the on board computer had logged it but there was no warning (or if there was I missed it). Both keys were working fine. I have changed the batteries anyway. Car is almost 2 years old. Dealer wanted £9 to change each battery which I declined. The manual provides the method to change them (but surprisingly, not the type of battery). It's a bit fiddly but no problem to do. Looks like it is best to change annually as suggested above. Sudden thought, the on-board computer cannot measure the voltage directly so it must be measuring some output from the fob but that surely varies by where the battery is when its output is measured tpo complicated for me.

I had my car serviced today by Wings in King's Lynn. They suggested the aircon service too but I refused. My Karoq is coming up to 2 years old, 17,000 miles and the aircon works fine as far as I can tell. This document https://az749841.vo.msecnd.net/sitesengb/alv1/d300a459-5ef6-433f-a49f-65f3638efaa1/national-price-servicing-min.63862747c3e6286ede19bc446a023030.pdf from the Skoda website suggests aircon service every two years (but the schedule does not have years 1 and 2).

Interesting that you think the Turanzas get noisier with wear because I was thought that too and put it down to my imagination. I am more convinced that it might be true now.

I have received a letter from Skoda UK to say that this dealer is no longer an authorised Skoda repairer.

As mentioned above, My 1.5 MY19 needed some more oil. On the basis that it is filled with long life oil and set to variable servicing in the factory, I searched for VW 508 spec oil which seems to be the recommended version for variable servicing. This is 0w-20 and quite difficult to find. Halford sell a Mobil 1 version but only on line. ( I had a look in a fairly large Halfords store.) Amazon sell the Castrol version. Both came out at about £19 for litre bottle delivered. Amazon sent it from a warehouse in Germany. I am not sure if this is the right thing to do and maybe I overspecc'd the oil. This is the item that I bought https://www.amazon.co.uk/Castrol-15A54C-Edge-Professional-0w-20/dp/B071D8TLV4/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=vw+508+oil&qid=1573673319&sr=8-3 Frustratingly, about £2 cheaper now than when I placed my order last week.

This Ateca referred was a 1ltr manual. From what I remember of the Ateca forum, there were a significant number of clutch problems with 1ltr manuals about a year ago. The vehicles would have generally been built in early 2018 so the issue may have been resolved by the time Karoq production started. David Gatenby won in small claims court but I think you need to be very persistent and thorough to go that far. Good luck.

The oil light has just come up on my MY19 1.5TSI at 11,000 miles (delivered in October 2018). I am sticking to variable servicing as set at the moment and expect to have a service in about 6 months time. I had a 1.2 TSI previously (again left on variable servicing) and I put some oil in that at about 7,000 miles and not again for the rest of the 5 years that we kept it. It stayed on variable servicing but would trigger the service warning about every 12-13,000 miles.

Very useful post, thank you. When it was very reluctant to go into 2 cylinder mode (virtually never at that time), I was experimenting with sport mode on the gear box and it came on at cruise controlled 40 in sport mode and therefore a lower gear. The WLTP set up does seem to keep the revs very low in normal setting. (I have not yet tried eco drive setting.)

My 1.5 is tending to go into 2 cylinder mode more as it gets run in. When it was new, it virtually never came on. Now it will come on very light throttle downhill up to about 50mph and quite a lot around town on the flat at a steady 30. The speed at which it will activate has been increasing. I have been using Tesco Momentum fuel consistently up to now but have just changed to normal 95 fuel so I will see how (or if) it affects 2 cylinder mode. Mileage so far 2500 over 4 months.

You need to be careful if you buy a fitted one. The length of the boot from lip to seat back is different with Varioflex seats compared with normal back seats. I think the boot floor is longer with the Varioflex. Whether you have a spare wheel is also a consideration. I bought a liner from Roofbox but it didn't fit despite asking them which was the right type before purchase. They were very good about taking it back an refunding the money. In the end, I bought a cheaper boot mat from Halfords which fits very well. This is the one that I bought https://www.halfords.com/motoring/car-accessories/car-mats-boot-liners/mottez-boot-mat-medium--75x100cm I have an SEL with a space saver spare wheel.

My Amundsen unit seems happy with all the tracks transferred to it irrespective of how they were ripped. However, my wife has an MP3 player that doesn't pick up the data from dBpoweramp ripped tracks. I can't explain it ands, so far, have not managed to fix it. There are free mp3 tag editors but you have to be able identify the problem tags before they are of any use.

If left n the auto position, they do turn again on in the morning subject to a minimum speed which I think is about 10mph. After the initial trigger, they operate at any speed when appropriate. I think they operate when the car is stationary in traffic too. After the car has been parked in the rain, you need to manually switch them on to clear the screen of water. I usually push the lever up to constant and then back again. The automatic rear wiper only comes on when the front wipers are active and the car is put in reverse so they don't come on when the front wiper lever is left in the auto position unless the front wipers are working. I really like the auto wipers. I first came across them in a Vauxhall Corsa where they came as standard and specified them in my next car (SEAT). Really useful for light rain where they automatically deal with varying intensity of the rain. I rarely need to adjust the sensitivity control on top of the stalk.