ian_feel_keepin_it_reel

It's not just how it holds the revs while cruising. It also makes the throttle a lot more responsive. In D you would have to have the throttle pressed to the floor to see the top end of the rev range, S will be a lot more keen. As someone else has said, best used for overtaking.

It sounds like a vent opening but it's rubbing as it does. It's a bit of a joke that your dealership just put a diagnostic tool on it and said "sorry, no faults = no problem". You're probably right, it will likely be one of the air con vents. Maybe recirc or air care? I'd just sit there and play with all the available settings on the air con in the hope of isolating the noise.

Behind that metal shielding is an electrical circuit. If it's hydraulic problems then it's almost always heat related. Heat or contamination in the fluid.

Things that kill electronics: Water, Heat, Overvoltage, Radiation. I'd guess its one of the first two, if you your car had voltage problems you'd be frying other modules as well and I put radiation in the list a joke, if there was enough radiation about to fry the electronics in your car, a dead car would be the least of your worries.

I was thinking more the mass of a bike, I'll agree speeding can be just as dangerous, but I would think most fatal accidents involving bikes it's mostly the biker's that die. I'd also argue a lot more people speed than drink drive which would skew the statistics slightly. Impossible to measure the ratio of speeders who have a fatal accident against drink drivers who have a fatal accident. While you get a fair few people who are happy to acknowledge they speed; you'd have to be a special kind of idiot to brag about drink driving. (Sorry to OP for derailing his post.)

What chance does a stationery police car have at catching up to two sports bikes? If they really were doing 70 in a 30 it's entirely likely the officer wouldn't have had time to even read their plates. Better to just radio it in and stay on your objective. I'd argue a drunk driver is much more dangerous to other road users than a couple of bikers speeding.

Be aware when you fit lower engine mounts, the force that was being dissipated by the excessive engine movement and wheel hop is now more strain on your transmission. The sloppy oem mount isn't just for occupant comfort.

I'm not sure if you've stated this and I've just missed it but is your suspension stock? A decent set of tires and a firmer lower suspension will make a massive difference. I used to have a 13plate fiesta and if I remember rightly the recommended rear pressure was much lower than the front. Like 26psi.

When you get it remapped that will reset the learning. It will also probably clear the ECUs fault memory. Other than unplug it there's really nothing else to be done.

Fit wider wheels?

It's a nice idea but I really doubt there is anything commercially available to do that. Also A standard dash cam would have a much better video quality than the rear view camera.

No, it serves no other function than as a threshold for operating the start stop.

You've got to whack it higher than that to get it to reliability stay off. I read a post yesterday which recommended 18v.

I regret not specing Acc on mine, although tbh I rarely use the motorway so I doubt I'd get much use out of it.

My 68plate SEL octavia came with cruise control but didn't come with the speed limiter. If you spec Adaptive cruise control you get the limiter functionality as well.

Well if you're in start stop traffic the cooling fan will be going nuts because there isn't enough air movement across the radiator for passive cooling.

Cooling fan or as you say turbo cooling.

I've gotten into the habit of turning it off as soon as I start the car. It's extra annoying with an automatic as you can't use the clutch to start the engine before pulling away. There's always this lurching delay when I lift my foot off the brake.

Mine makes noises every time I stop. It's normal and nothing to worry about. My last car a 13plate Ford fiesta made similar noises. Just the querks of modern engines.

You can't go wrong with rainsport 3s with UK weather. Excellent tyre. They wear quick because they're a soft wet weather compound its the trade off for having tyres that won't let you down. If you want something that feels stiffer then get the XL variant and run a higher pressure.

A quick look on Parkers and I'm mistaken. A Mk1 vRS is 100Kg heavier than a mk3 estate.

Mk1 is probably a fair bit lighter than a mk3. Also its a sports variant so probably had better brakes than your mk3 1.4 has.

Funny that. A huge OEM with vast resources at their disposal; design, test and tune their components to be efficient. Meanwhile an aftermarket company welds a maf mount to a aluminium tube, sticks a cone or a sponge on the end and goes £300 please.

Difference is minimal, even to a stock paper filter, any difference you notice is a placebo. Also be careful when you clean it and re-oil it. Excess oil will end up coating various air intake sensors and throw off their readings.

The offered this engine choice with SEL spec 2 weeks after I ordered my 1.5... I would have gone for it if it had been available. At the time you could only get it with the k&l spec which is silly money imo.