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Please note that many cars today, incl. Skoda Karoq regulates the 12V supply by PWM-regulation. Hang on an oscilloscope on the supply line and you will see that the normally straight line of DC is interrupted into longer or shorter breaks or more correct, shorter and even more shorter breaks... This makes no harm to most of the ordinary loads, like lamps, either LED or filament, or most other appliances, small motors and so on. But electronic devices like a daschcam can go bananas when the straight DC is changed to pulses... Solution is a smoothing filter, a LC-type will work, or a diode in serial together with a capacitor 100-470uF on the camside.

Different versions of the hw and sw... I see nothing strange with this. I think I saw a long list of ECU-versions together with sw versions earlier, was it not here in the forum?

Thanks Arkaig for the valuable manuals. I thought that Karoq Body Repairs also included removal instructions of the various external parts and trims... I look for grill and frontparts removal informations and pictures. Is this anything you might have?

Thanks a lot for info, I appreciate it.

This includes of course the hesitation sometimes when starting (again with DSG), the delay from pressing the accelerator until the car really starts to move is very annoying and scary..

In addition to the discussion: I believe the DSG kan mitigate the problem a bit. I can sometimes see on the tachometer that the engines revs up a bit without the car jumping along, meaning the clutch disengage quickly, then a few seconds later the car jumps like if you tap on the accelerator... So, I like to think the problem is in the complete drive line including the ECU, not the engine alone. Something is not playing well after cold start and in cold weather, the system would need a retune and update.

Thanks a lot for the feedback. I have of course talked to my local service company and a I can read "between the lines" that they are aware of the problem, but so fare they refuse to agree that Skoda or VAG has accepted this as a general problem for the 1,5 TSI engine, or that there will be an update of the s/w or whatever needed to cure the problems. I´m sure there must be a solution for this, and I will give feedback as soon as I have any news.

I experience problems like very rough and choppy torq delivery from the drive line after cold start, especially when temperature is down to around zero. Especially when trying to drive softly at low speeds up to 3:rd gear. The problems fades more or less after warm up, but the more irritating directly after start. The car is quite new with less then 2000 km on the meter... has anyone the same experience, perhaps an upgrade on the ECU could help? I have not checked the fault memory, but as the engine lamp has not turned on (yet), probably nothing is stored in the memory.

There is a "30G" supply around the car at different places, incl. inside the roof armature with the inner lights and buttons for the emergency calls etc. This cable is red/blue, and "30G" supply is on as soon as the car is waked up, eg. unlocked and so on, and goes out when the electrical system goes in sleep mode, typically after 5-10 minutes after shut down the ignition and systems. The voltage here is somewhat strange when checked with an ordinary multimeter, as it is stabilized to around 12,3-12,6V, also when car is started and running. The way it is stabilized is by PWM, that is there are very short breaks (pulses) when the generator rises the voltage on the battery to normal 14,5V or so. This has no impact on most users like lights and so, or small consumers like a daschcam, but I have also run into equipment that does not like this kind of DC-voltage, A small resistor and a capacitor in the equipment solved this. So, the red/blue cable together with brown which is ground in all german cars, including VAG and Skoda, is handy to use for certain small consumers like a camera or small LED lights. If camera is installed next to the mirror in the window, it´s handy to take the supply inside the lamp and no need to route cables all the way to the fuse central.

Not observed that. Looks like the lampcheck functions that is found on some cars, like BMW that I have some previous experience on. Is this function and flashes also verified on Karoq?

Some pictures of my rear lamp "conversions" IMG_3572.MOV

I´ve gone a step further on my Karoq rear lamps. I found dual-color lamps in China, yellow and white. Both LED-groups on the lamps was found to be high power with very bright and nice output but the lamp sockets is to big (W20) to fit in the W16 sockets, so I needed to rebuild them. At the same time I eliminated a time delay for about 1 sec for the white LED:s at start. Not that this is crucial for the reverse lamps, but I choosed to replace the switching electronic LED drivers for both LED-groups with an ordinary power resistor, this way I also get rid of the radio disturbance that most of these chinese lamps generate. I rebuild four dual-color LED-lamps this way and placed on the original turn and reverse sockets, and the result is brilliant, very bright and distinct light on both functions, and it looks very good when the complete white parts of the rear lamps are used to both the yellow and white lamp functions. I will try to put together some pics and show later on.

Dear Arkaig, Any idea why your attached files or links can not be delivered or showed to me? Is it limited to UK readers?