clivecoo

When retracted nothing can be seen.

Sorry a bit late but here’s a couple of pictures.

After starting this topic two years ago I have just fitted a genuine Skoda tow bar myself to my Karoq that I had build with tow bar preparation. Although expensive I decided to buy the Skoda electric release kit because of how neat it is and unless you look underneath there is no clue that a tow bar is fitted. The kit cost me £621 inc vat ! from the Skoda dealer I bought the car from. (They wanted £1000 to supply and fit !) At the time I purchased it I asked if the kit supplied was all I needed and was told everything was in the kit. Anyway started on page one of the fitting instructions which were in the box. The removal of the rear bumper looked a bit daunting but lots of screws and clips and following the instructions and it was off. You have to remove and bin the large rear impact bar that runs across the back of the car which the tow bar replaces. The cut out in the plastic bumper is marked on the inside so easy to cut out. I used a multi tool. Electric module and operating switch from the kit fits on right hand wheel arch and plugs into the existing preparation spec harness. Got to the last page of the instructions and it says tow bar has to be coded before it will work. I was not happy with the dealer and Said I should have been told this. To add insult to injury they said they wanted £144 to do this. They were adamant they had to charge even after I reminded them both me and my wife has bought new cars from them in the last two years After a bit of “discussion” I reluctantly agreed on £60 inc vat. Carried out at the same time as 2nd oil change that I had pre paid for at time of car purchase ( bet coding was a 10 minute job). Towbar works fine now, just a shame I won’t be giving them any more trade. Local independent garage next time for me. In hindsight I should have had the towbar factory fitted on build so hope this story helps others.

From day one I thought the shiny smooth cover to the storage compartment in front of the gear lever was annoying as seemed the logical place to put keys or glasses but they would just slide off especially with the holes in the surround. Normal non slip matting is too thick to allow the cover to slide with this type of mat in place. A piece of pond liner is the solution! I pushed a piece of paper down onto the cover to trace the shape and then cut the liner with a blade and steel rule leaving the front edge 15mm longer so that it tucked under the gap the cover slides into. It is held in place by a 10mm strip of double sided tape under the end nearest the gear shift. I measured the thickness of the liner I used and it is 1.07mm thick so say 1mm. The Cover slides in and out perfectly.

I think the bungee cords that hold the back seats up when folded forward are a poor design. Way to much effort required to hook them around the headrest chrome tubes. I find it difficult and my wife finds it impossible. Look at the pictures and see the easy modification. I had some chrome 100 mm S hooks laying around in the garage, I think they were only a pound for 3 from a market stall. 3 small strong magnets secure them under the seats when not in use so easily to get at when required.