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Macsamillion

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  1. Has anyone found a cheap alternative to the rear door lock 5TA839016H, I believe this has been superseded by 5TA839016T. LLL Parts have one at €275.
  2. Finally got round to fitting the new springs in the 280 exhaust valve solenoids tonight. They have been broke for a while. Didn't go well. When in sport mode the valve is closed on flap 1 then open in normal mode. I hooked up OBDELEVEN and put it in output mode and the flap operates ok but can't seem to get it round the other way. Any idea what I'm doing wrong. Flap 2 has a separate issue, I stupidly left the plug off and i think the plug connections are now corroded. The solenoid works on the other side. Ah well, go again tomorrow.😴
  3. Sorry to drag up an old thread but I have this issue now. I have the two buttons which i believe is just the childlock rather than the Safelock function. Would I be assuming correctly therefore part number 5TA839016K
  4. Thanks for that. Good link to know. I managed to get the part from Autodoc just in time for my MOT today. It was part number B18947 Borsehung holder
  5. The passenger side of the rear silencer has fallen down due to the bracket holding the exhaust rubber cracking and is no longer attached. Anyone got a part number or a drawing showing this bracket
  6. Well I gave my 280 sport line estate a maintenance wash and parked it In the garage, where it will stay for the next year at least. Serviced a week ago and will be run every other week. I was given the opportunity to run an Ineos grenadier for a bit so that's my wagon now. Plan to replace the exhaust valve springs, again, and de-tar etc over time. Love the superb and will keep it as long as I can.
  7. Has anyone used a Mk5 Golf R32 wheel on there superb III? Golf wheel is 18" 5 x 112, 7. 5J, ET51 Original Vega wheel is 19, 8J, ET44 Thinking of this as a winter setup. My car is lowered
  8. I was just being a bit weak. Bent the roll bar down and jobs done. Was very simple in the end. Every day is a school day....
  9. Right my rear suspension /drop links saga continue. After changing springs, drop links started creaking. Had to chop them off, not uncommon I'm told. Got new links and bolts finally but having a real issue fitting them. Everyone says the car should be on axle stands and do both sides at once so limit any strain in anti roll bar. Even so I can't fit the new drop links, tried jacking up the lower arm to align bolt holes. See picture. That's with it jacked right upI thought I should be able to fit in the relaxed position. Can the anti roll bar turn in its mounts, have I done something when doing the springs and it's rotated up?
  10. I bought the kit from VAG dealer this year for my DQ250 box and i think i was £130. DQ381 seems a hike in price
  11. It's the drop links that seem to be the issue, struggle. Getting the tool in to hold the golt while undoing the nut. The springs are in the way. It looks like when doing the springs I have put tension on the drop links and one is now creaking. Everyone says do the drop links with wheels on ground which might be easier if I had ramps
  12. So that`s me now got both front and rear Eibach pro kit springs fitted. Had to replace the front drop links and if I`m honest i think i will have to do the rears soon. Very happy with the ride quality along with the Bilstein shocks. I had originally chosen to keep standard springs on the B6`s but then the rear spring cracked. I Replaced the rear myself and when driving to get the front springs done at a garage ( beyond me ) I heard a clunk and the mechanic confirmed one of the fronts cracked. My advice to anyone is to replace the drop links and even if opting to keep standard springs, fit new ones. Car is 55kmiles Will probably just go the full hog now and get a rear anti roll bar ( Whiteline ) and uprated links . Has anyone done the rear anti roll themselves, is it straight forward upgrade?
  13. So changed the broken spring for the new eibach kit. Went to do the other side and all was going well until I tried to remove anti roll bar link bolt. Nut came off but bolt is not backing out. It's stiffnto turn and is turning the insert attached to the roll bar Link. Tried knocking it to free off but no joy. Any ideas? I was thinking of removing the top fixing of the link to the bar but not sure if that's a good idea. It looks to be a torx screw in the middle of a nut? Then I could get spring out and arm dropped for a better look. Was going so well too...
  14. For whatever reason I had to remove it. Got car on axle stands both sides but couldn't get enough on the arm to free the spring.
  15. OK will try unbolting damper see if that helps. Will grab a second jack in case I need to raise the other side too. Looks like this link needs removed to 😂

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