iXtremist

Hi there, congrats! Can you please be so kind, and take a photo of how you have front swaybar link connected to the shock(strut) on right side of car(from drivers point of view)? Many thanks.

I finally find out the reason of hesitation before the full turbo boosting... IT WAS THE FUEL PUMP. I run the logs and from injector duty cycle + A/F ratios it was clear that there is not enough fuel during the powerspike (combination of tune + race N75) around 3300RPM. So i replaced the fuel pump module with Walbro unit capable of 200l/h (also as preparation for next mods) and booom. No hesitation trough whole rev range + more power at top end + it can spin pilotsport 4 s 18/225 tyres at second gear at launch very hard😍. The old granny fuelpump have seen better times.

Gone trhough this, a new reverse sensor fixed this. Its very cheap part.

Well you can easily open the lamp and replace the motor. I will do it just to check the lamps, if they are not stuck. This is how damaged/bend motor looks like. As you can see on the top picture, the motor have ball on the end of shaft. You need to unsrew the 2 torx and than gently push/rotate the motor down, so the ball with shaft goes up. It have keyhole mount and you need that ball to get out from it. This is a view of installed motor (its damaged, from back, but it doesnt matter for purpose of showing how to uninstall it). this picture is in same position of the photo, showing the keyhole mount for shaft and way ho to get the motor out. Initial position of the ball on shaft is at bottom of the keyhole.

Here is the difference between front ARB. Here is the back ARB fitted.

So, after 4500km with Eibach arbs fitted. The car behavior rapidly changes. It have very fast steering reaction, understeer is completely gone. On summer pilot sport 4 tyres (18/225) the car is way more faster trough corners. Very funny lift off oversteer sometimes (which car scare unexperienced driver to death). However, there is issue with squeeking/clamping sound in low speed turning. Anybody experienced this? I already regresed the bushings, but it still doing that sound, especially when the car is standing still and i turn the wheels to the lock (f.e. when parking), or at very low speeds.

Well depends if the map there is correct. Dunno what unlocked means in your case.

You mean swap the ECU? You can always swap back. This can rule out wrong map.

You replaced the Y breather hose and all PCV system including the valve? I'm a bit lost in your post, could you provide the numbers of the parts which you have changed + detail about the plug?

You will probably not see fault code for broken pipe. Broken pipe usually can be detected on long term trims of A/F ratio. Best way to figure them out is simple smoke test of vacuum / boost system.

Read one of my post earlier in this thread. I have described this one already.

Get the VAG cable and diagnose it properly. This is stabbing in dark. Could be anything from dead turbo/wastegate/solenoid to vacuum leaks, fuel pump, coils, sparkplugs etc..

Whats the condition of DMF?

Just dont unplug it, better way is to turn keys to first position and have somebody to press the accelerator pedal. Throttle will wide open even when the motor is not started.. Just dont push on the flap. Also, there is a gasket (very cheap one, like 2 euro) between intake and throttle body. I personally use IPA + Toothbrush

Both

MK1 VRS OCTY BLACK MAGIC, STAGE II. Location - Brno, Czech Republic Anybody from the forum is welcome when you will visit the motherland of Škoda.

Interesting, after cca 500 miles the suspsension setup settle a bit lower and the ride is waaay more firm. Also i had to learn the car again, it's behaving way more different (have to be more precise in the apex hitting and work more with steering wheel --> microcorrections needed. Slowly but surely im getting to the better times on the laps than before. Cannor wait to the summer to switch to 18 / 225 forged alloys with conti sportcontacts, right nnow im sure that after ARBs fitted, the 16/205 winter tyres will be the limiting factor. Anyway, set of eibach antiroll kit 22mm(adjustable) F / 25 mm R, will be fitted next week. looking forward for the difference.

PCV + hoses after 300k km. Changing the PCV is strongly recommended every 60k km..

Make this sticky? I think the hesitation before 4k is present on almost all older AUQ engines now. Goin to examine this tube on my black lady tomorrow.

Could you take a photo of that bloody pipe? This surging is taking me crazy, have it also... its the only fault which i was not able to sort /code out.

There is always a way to MOT heavy upgraded car, even in CZ where we cannot fit even bigger brakes oh lowering springs.. Cost is approx 200 libras here in cz.

Sticky wastegate?

Only proper way how to solve it is get it mapped out.

And first clean the throttle body

For sure, but go with original bosh one, others are usually crap.