Grafix

Sure - it was £102 from a main dealer - it's the entire assembly of rigid sections, damping volume and flexi hose - all the way from the MC to the slave. Not available in sections unfortunately. Cheers.

Update.... It was the flexi hose causing the issue.... Once we took the hose assy off it we found it was partially blocked despite looking perfectly normal externally. Had to order the complete hose assy from a dealer but the clutch is now behaving perfectly. An expensive lesson! Thanks for the help from you all on here! Cheers!

I'd like to do that if we could but as of Monday it's in use commuting every day as we ran out of time and so really we only have the weekends and nobody realistically can turn a custom hose around so fast. Jeff.

Thanks for the tip! It really is about the only thing we haven't changed so I think we have to try it - I think though it means a complete clutch hose assembly - which is main dealer only and around £120? Jeff.

We did actually remove the little floating restrictor element from the clutch delay valve quite easily though? We saw it was the same as the VW part number used on Golfs (and Audi TTs) and copied a Youtube video to take it out - very easily to be honest? The trick is to remove be the vertical bleed nipple first and its easy to do? Unfortunately it made no difference even though you can see straight through the 'delay valve' now and happily blow air through it from either end with none of the restriction it had before. We are really stuck!

Cheers! Yes it's driving us mad as we really have run out of sensible ideas. Really though your suggestion is pretty much the only thing left! Jeff.

Am up for any suggestions! The flexi hose part 'looks' normal (no visible kinks or deformation) but can they degrade internally in some way? Cheers, Jeff.

Am looking for wise council please... My son's VRS developed a slow to return clutch pedal. To cut a difficult story short this has so far resulted in a new master cylinder, a new slave cylinder and since the slave was being done the clutch plate and dmf were also changed. The result has been no improvement at all... The pedal and return spring were looked at and all is good. The clutch damper/restrictor valve at the slave cylinder/bell-housing was removed, checked and even the restrictor in it removed in an effort to fix the problem but nothing changed. It's been bled using an ezi-bleed set to a (high!) 30psi and litres of brake fluid later still not a single improvement. Can anybody suggest what is being overlooked please as it has defeated two very experienced mechanics so far and I really don't know what do next. It's a nice unmodified VRS and otherwise drives really well - it has only covered a genuine 68k from new too. Hoping for some help/advice! Cheers, Jeff.

Thanks JR for your help and insight. I'll obviously watch it closely but that gives me more confidence that it's a trait and not a fault. On the road as said the brakes work 'fine' I'll refresh the fluid soon and hopefully that will also sharpen them up a tad as I don't know when the previous owner last changed the fluid or bled the system.

My son's VRS has a brake pedal that sinks (slowly) down if you continually press it (engine on). It's rock solid engine off and has no fluid leaks at all. Overall the brakes feel a little soft overall but the car goes into ABS etc if you 'exercise' the brakes. Is this 'typical' for the breed and to do with the diesel vac pump creating a lot of servo effect - or more likely a fault? (It's literally just passed its MOT this week with nothing about this flagged) Any advice gratefully received!

Just to round this off - carefully pushed all the pins back in to both rear light clusters and the problem has disappeared... Hopefully it was one of the pins backing out slightly - fingers will remain crossed...

Many thanks - will work through these!

No LEDs and the earth point looks clean as a whistle unfortunately - but will work through all the pins to make sure they are fully home etc. FWIW it never happens if my headlights are on. Occurs with lights off or sidelights only on.

MK1 Fabia gremlin - looking for suggestions. It keeps throwing up a 'bulb broken' warning - a warning lamp and a beep soon after start up. However no bulbs are blown - all working. It's not consistent either - sometimes it's fine. Anybody else had similar experience and worked out a fix?

In the boot under the lift up floor carpet should be a sticker which will have the engine code (amongst other things) on it. Or check the ECU under the bonnet - LHS of the plenum. If the part number ends NJ its a BLT unit. Or an HPI check will show it. Probably several other ways too! Happy hunting - cracking little machine if you find a good one.