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Hi Wino Top of the class for you brother. I don't have much time and will post over the weekend. I have just taken the drivers side window motor off and I had indeed put the motor on so you could not see the label when the door card is off . I have turned this through 180 degrees so you can now see it. Put it all back together and it works the way it should. ( Push the switch down window goes down Pull the switch up window goes up.) How ever the left door window is still working back wards off both the drivers door switch and passenger switch. Took the passenger door card off and I had also fitted this motor so you could not see the label. Turned it through 180 degrees so you can now see the label put back together and this is also working the way it should from both the drivers and passenger door switches. ( push down window goes down pull up window goes up ) Just wanted to let you know. Well done mate. No pictures at the moment will try and sort something out for next post.

Hi All Some days have now passed where we have had some cold mornings boarder line freezing. One night of rain and through the following morning and one morning with a hard frost. Touch wood I am pleased to report windows are still working. With the knowledge of what I have done . If I started this job from the start point I would re solder the capacitor first the try the pcb. If that hadn't worked I would re solder the big connector . As I have said these Items were re soldered at the same time so I don't know which one may of helped to get them working again. I can only say this has worked for me so far. It would be interesting if someone has an old motor unit that they could repeat this and see if they get the same result? Please let me know what result you get because I would hope this helps others. I look forward to hearing off anyone. Thanks Rob

Hi StuW Please read my electric windows update post if you haven't already. Just about to add to it. Thanks Rob

Hi Wino The window switch on the front passenger door ( single switch ) Lift the switch up window goes down. ( Passenger window only operates ) Push the switch down window goes up'( passenger window only operates ) The switch on the front drivers door (double switch ) If you sit in the drivers seat. The left part of this switch operates passenger window only Lift up window goes down. Push down window goes up. The right side of this switch operates drivers window only Lift up window goes down Push down windows goes up. Both rear door windows operate manually on my vehicle. If you lock or unlock the drivers door with the key If you hold the key against the locked position both passenger and drivers door windows go down If you hold the key against the open position both passenger and drivers windows go up. As Edbostan said I can get used to this. Hope this helps. Rob

Hi Wino Left door switch works the same as right door switch and key operation Cleaned both commutators with electrical spray and soft brush. Right commutator was very clean to be honest. left commutator was green in color like corrosion from moisture on connections open to the atmosphere if that makes sense . Both commutators showed sines of wear. Both were dirty on the armature where the brushes make contact. To be expected I suppose . In side both doors were very good on the parts I could see just dust. A lot of very valid posts have been made about other faults that make the windows fail. This has helped me eliminate other problems to arrive at this point. I am going to let things take there coarse now and see what happens. Thanks to all on briskoda past and present for your posts. On a personnel note thanks for your input wino I have learnt a lot and enjoyed working through this with you. I appreciate you taking the time and the information. I would be interested to know what you find with the project you are doing regarding these window problems. Thanks Rob

Hi edbostan Sorry to you and wino. I had a call yesterday and had to go out quickly. Thanks for your info. Like you I am going to get used to the way they are now working in the hope they continue to do so. Just can`t understand why they are now doing this after what I have done. Thanks Rob

The other thought I had about the switches operating in reverse is. I removed both motors to clean them. On the end of the armature is a worm screw could these be handed ? I don`t think I did but I could have put the right motor on the left and left on the right. Just the motors not the part that bolts to door they are handed. Again don`t want to mess at this point to prove the point.

Hi Wino At the moment now I have it working I would like to leave it alone to see what happens. Also my skill level to do as you suggest is not the best but would have ago. Another thought I had is there are issues I have seen about door locks failing. Does the window pcb have anything to do with door lock operation as well ?

Hi alf100 I can only say what I have done in the past with a ford fiesta. I brushed copper slip or grease on the part in your pictures. Not sure with your vehicle though. Also I worked the the leaver in side the car in case the inner cable is sticking in the outer part. Not returning fully home? Maybe needs a new cable if that`s the case. Hope this helps Rob

Hi Wino Some more feed back for you. Hope i`m not tempting fate here. We have had a couple of frosty mornings since my last post with a lot of moisture on the windows. I am pleased to report windows going up and down still. Off both right door and left door switches. How ever. After getting over my excitement of them actually working . Working as they should is not strictly true. Both right & left door switches operate in reverse. ( To be clear lift the switch window goes down' Push the switch down window goes up ) Also if you lock the drivers door with the key and hold the key in the locked position window goes down. Window goes up if you hold the key in the open position. I believe it should operate the other way around? Also the two stages of the switch does not work they just go up or down when using the switch and stop when you release the switch. I believe this next bit is correct operation and is how they are operating . Unlock the car windows don`t operate. Insert the key into the ignition turn ignition on with doors open or shut windows operate'' With doors shut turn ignition off windows operate for ten minutes then stop until you turn the ignition on again How ever if you turn the ignition off and open the door they will not operate and this also cancels the ten minute operation time. Turn ignition on they work again. I am going to live with how they are operating to see how long they last. As at least they are working at the moment. Interested to know your thoughts on this. Thanks Rob

Actually I don`t know never tried it only going off what I have read. Please let me know how you get on.

Sorry forgot to say the only thing is that the windows will not open or shut of the fob' But everything else is as it should be. Rob

Hi Wino Change of plan weather is lovely so decided to have another look at the car. To keep this short as I can will just cover what has a cured and what I have done again. If you recall I warmed up the pcb and it lasted about four days then we had rain and it failed again. With this in mind I thought I would give it another go and see if it had the same affect. This time I got it a little to warm and the pins housed in the black plastic block that is soldered to board fell off. (to be clear this is where the block connectors from the loom attach to the motor. Drivers side) Also the capacitor nearly fell off to' So got my solder kit out and cleaned out all the holes on the board where this block attaches, using the sucker gun that I didn't know I had as its only a basic kit. I reconnected and soldered it back on. with nothing to loose i refitted it to the car. Low and be hold all is working as it should again even the left window. For how long who knows. With this in mind you said you were playing with PN 6Y2959802 perhaps you could try and melt the solder on each pin to re establish each connection and see if you get any result . Or on the capacitor first as I have done both at the same time by accident so don`t know which may of worked if at all. My theory is that it has reconnected something that tells it to wake up as you have said. Having had a result twice now I think its down to something with the pcb but cant say exactly what. It would be really nice to get to the bottom of this .As I have said I am more mechanical than electrical so If this fails again will try replacing capacitor first then relay if I can. Rob

Hi Wino Sorry for the delay getting back to you. I have cleaned and checked fuse 11 which was ok. Will test voltage as you suggest at the weekend . The only thing that I haven't now done is change the relay and capacitor on the pcb that I have seen being suggested to be done ,what do you think? Thanks Rob

Hi Wino My car is a mk11 07 plate I only know basic stuff my self and have been on the phone to my brother who has a better understanding of electrics. While I understand what you are telling me with it going to sleep and not waking up again. That describes what is happening until I take the wires off then reconnect. The CAN BUS and the LIN BUS is where my understanding stops but do understand what you mean with the mA. I have cleaned all the connection points on the motors both with electrical spray and wet&dry paper and also fuses. Am I write saying these faults come with age? Also do you think this could come from the ignition switch contacts of the back of what you say about giving it a 12v feed and it doesn't go to sleep? When ignition is in the off position. What I cant get my head around is how this problem arises when moisture is present. Thanks for your reply