JMu

I have a '03 vrs estate, recently I've had the car stall immediately after starting, with different fuel levels each time and it's happened a few times now. I've spoken to friends and had a poke around online and it's been suggested it could be the fuel pump going bad. I've tried changing the fuse just in case but nothing changes. Am I on the right track looking at the fuel pump, and if so, what's the most efficient way of testing it out? I've driven the car since with none of the issues but I'd rather replace the part if it is on the way out.

Thanks, that's actually a big help I'll have a look into those as it looks like you've got it in there quite nicely!

Ah right, I've emailed the manufacturer for more info, hopefully if it is the slam panel I may be able to work around it without hacking it apart! Which twin Pass have you gone for? I'd seen some and liked the idea but they all seem to need chunks of slam panel removed. As for the forge etc, I'm happy to spend bigger money on parts but I just can't justify the money on a radiator and a few pipes, but I guess you get what you pay for somehow with them

I've looked at a few kits for an fmic, most list the kits for the mk4 golf, octavia etc under the same umbrella but I've found a market place one (Gravity performance) which says it'll work with the A3, the Leon, the golf and the octavia from that era but won't work on the octavia vrs. Any ideas why that might be? I assumed the mk1 vrs was the same in many ways as the golf, with the same 1.8t as the rest listed but for some reason the vRS is excluded. I've seen that maybe the connection to the turbo is a few mm different but aren't the turbos the same across the range except for the ko4?

In the next month or so I'm going to (hopefully) be getting my Vrs wagon in for a custom map, ridding myself of the SAI incorrect flow code while it's in. Before I go, I'd like to make sure the car is in best condition. Its never had a real problem on MOTs, no issues in the 2 years I've owned it. The major thing I'm seeing is to upgrade the coil packs and plugs to the red top/ R8 versions as future proofing. The car is just hitting 95k and I can't see they've ever been replaced so why not. I've seen an NGK model listed under part number U5014, are these the versions people fit? If so, who h plugs will be best suited to it? With any luck the car should make on or around 200hp. I've always had my cars serviced at a local garage so I've not fitted spark plugs myself before, will I need to gap them myself, and if so is there a recommended scale for these? Lastly, any other recommendations for things to fit/ change before a remap? I don't want massive power, just a new lease of life for an old engine.

I'd like to get my octavia wagon remapped, I have a check light die to SAI removal so I'd like that gone along with any performance gains available without delving more into engine mods. Are there any new recommendations besides those mentioned in this thread for the Norfolk area? (I'm based in Norwich) Jabba sport seems the logical choice...

Thanks, that's the info I was hoping for so much appreciated.

2003 Vrs wagon, stock other than regular vacuum + SAI deletes I recently got rid of my sai pump as the rivets had all but gone and the whole lot was a little ropey. Standard delete with blank plate etc. I got by with no CEL for a good few weeks but tonight it finally appeared, P0411 incorrect flow. As I understand it, I have 2 options which are to go and get a remap/ get the code written out or, get VCDS and do it myself. I don't know a great deal about the mapping/ DIY modifying area myself, so it seems a little risky to get stuck into that straight away even though I think I could manage it. That coupled with the cost of the official gear as I don't like the idea of using the dirt cheap ebay cables/ software on my car. If I were to get the car remapped professionally, how much improvement in power/ response would I be able to reasonably expect as it'd no doubt be worth doing that at the same time as getting the error removed (I assume)? If I'm misunderstanding any of this, please let me know. I don't want enormous power out of the car, but if a professional remap can get rid of the code permanently AND make the car a little more fun then why not.

My cars getting on a bit and I can't see any info in the log to say that it's ever had a coolant change, plus the coolant looked extremely orange in the pipes. I'm hoping to give it a flush out and clean, perhaps get some of those aluminium pipe joint kits I see dotted around fitted too while it's empty. My manual says I should be using g12+ lilac coolant. I'm led to believe that purple g13 is the newer version and is interchangeable, is that correct? Also, the coolant currently in my reservoir looks very red/ pink and nowhere near purple/ lilac, I'm assuming that's had red coolant in it because I don't think any amount of rust would turn purple or lilac liquid that colour. Does that pose any kind of problem?

Thanks, I think I hear you loud and clear. Don't touch it. Much appreciated!

Ah nice! Does reversible in this case mean I have to maintain it?

Good afternoon, A lot of people mention the evap system delete on the vrs, and I've been through the very in depth guides her and there. The idea of binning a system for filtering/ recirculating fuel vapour seems a bit odd to me though. I love the look of a clean engine bay, but I also don't want to get rid of something that sounds pretty important. My vrs is a 2003 so it's getting on a bit now, has anyone got a realistic idea of the working life of the evap canister? If there's slim to no chances of it actually filtering anymore, is there any solid reason I shouldn't just run a hose directly from the feed to the canister, straight to the inlet and skip it entirely? Any advice appreciated as always.

Thanks! I'd seen 'flouro hoses' chucked around on various forums but had no idea why really, much appreciated!

Morning, I'm looking at removing the SAI and fitting a catch can, I've never done it before but have been reading all the guides on here and other sites (all of which are satisfyingly in depth). They all mention silicone hose, which makes sense. There are a good number of people saying to use flouro lined hoses for the breather tubes to/ from the catch can. What's the reason for this, and are standard silicone hoses completely unsuitable for that job? Also, Is flouro hose needed for any other areas I'm likely to get involved in removing the old hoses and cleaning up the engine bay or is it just for the vapor going through the breather tubes? As a side to that, I'd assume the hose exiting the catch can doesn't need to be flouro as it *shouldn't* be carrying anything other than air after the can? I'm planning on grabbing some stuff from Ash hoses as they get good write ups on this site. Any suggestions on which cheaper catch cans are worth a try? Any advice/ links greatly appreciated and if you read all that in one sitting, well done!