Interplain

OK, thanks for the tension idea, I have had another thought that would seem to in my opinion contribute. The coolant? The stuff from VW £50 a shot stuff. Is this like pure glycol? Assuming that this has a higher boiling point, about 190c apposed to crap from Halfords premix having water in it around 100c This would create pressure an pop the seal. My intention is to replace pump and tensioner and put vw coolant in. How much would I need in litres to fill the system?

Is this just bad luck or are Skoda fabia MK2 water pumps just W@nx. I changed the original when I rebuild engine for Mickey Mouse OEM an it lasted about 2 months. So I bought a Genuine one on the 01/06/2020 and it lasted about two weeks. I contacted the dealer where I bought it from an they said I had to book it in for a replacement, they fitted it. This POS has just failed in the same way. The pumps seem to be leaking round the pulley bearing housing. They are absolutely ****e. Can anyone recommend anything like a upgraded part or something. Its an absolute joke.

That I can agree on, cos the ******* that I bought the original skoda pump from said that they will only change the pump if its found to be faulty. An I have to book it in for them to find an issue with it. Or say it wasn't fitted properly more like. I just don't have any trust for these garages to be honest. But I think I am going to have to give in and undo my belt.. Thank you

You can't over tighten the pulley, it's got a tensioner on a cam spring and it applies tension on the belt.

Hello again, I have some picture of the current pump that has been taken off. May I add, the first picture is the old mickey mouse pump that replaced the original one when I rebuilt the engine from timing chain renewal. I had replaced that with a new skoda part, and this is the one I now have a leak with. That said the new skoda pump has failed and seems to be in the same place. The first image below is the new Skoda gen pump that was replaced 2 weeks ago. Although it looks good inside. Its leaking in the same place around the shaft that the pulley fits too. Second image shows the coolant dried on the inside of the pulley. Showing it to be the same place. Am I that unfortunate to have to pumps fail in a similar way or are they just crap and not that good. Or do I have a problem that's causing it to fail in the same place. Its odd to me.

That I couldn't say, because it's hard to even locate the screws in putting the new pump on. No viable access really, so tight space to view. But that would be a thing to look at. But it's leaking from the shaft that the pulley is on that drives it. If you look at the image above it's pushing out the seal within the pump. So some high pressure somewhere.

Not sure about the pressure, but I have seen coolant fluid residue around the expansion tank. Head gasket is OK, it's not got water in the oil. Maybe it needs a pressure test with what your saying.

Would a faulty Thermostat cause excessive pressure to break another pump?

Hello again, I am looking on here for some help regarding a issue I am having with my 2010 Fabia. Last year I rebuilt the engine after the timing chain slipped an killed all the valves. I replaced the oil and water pump at the same time. The car was using water quite regularly an couldn't find where it was coming from. On further investigation I found a white residue in a line at the back of the bulk head. I tracked it down to the water pump. It was wet underneath and was greasy. This pump was a none genuine one so replaced it with a genuine pump from skoda. It was replaced, when I took it off the rubber seal inside had failed. And pushed all the grease out of the back of the pump. The new pump I was told that a gasket came with it. So on arrival I found it had a black rubber gasket inserted on the outer edge. The pump was replaced and the water level was stable for about 2 weeks. Waiting at a junction red water light came on. I pulled over an it was leaking really badly. Could I be missing something here do I need to use red gasket paste? What torque should the bolts be. An could the failure be the same as the first pump. I am really getting fed up with this frustrating issue. Thank you

Thanks for all you help, I have got it going an to be honest I can't believe my luck. Compression was down on first cylinder, none what's so ever. Took the cam cover off and the Exhaust valve had popped collet out. It had smashed into four bits. An it had been chewing through the spring top. On the good side the valve was being pushed up with gasses an didn't touch the piston. Didn't get bent, so pushed string into cylinder and filled to max an positioned piston tdc and held valve up. Put new spring top and collets in and built up. Runs like a dream. 200 psi on all four cylinders. Thank god I didn't have to take head off again, would have been expensive. Thanks to xman for giving me links to site for chain kit

Valve open on cylinder number one. No compression. But all others fine. So either valves bent again or cam rocker stuck, feel that is unlikely. So stripping it down again to see what's going off at first level. Think I may have timed it up wrong. Timed it up and tightened up the sprocket and then nipped up the tensioner. Which may have caused the timing to be out a little. Think I should have left the sprocket slightly loose and then tightened the tensioner bolt, then locked off the bolt on the cam sprocket.

Thanks, for you idea. That's just what I am going to try next. I have put new valves in and timed it with the cam lock clamp tool and the bolt that is placed in the hole at the bottom of the engine, the bolt you remove from the the hose bracket. Piston 1 at TDC all seems fine. Only thing I think it could be is that maybe the sprocket moved a little whilst tightening the bolt in the centre, I did not have the counter tool that holds the sprocket. I held it with another tool. The plugs are really black and petrol is visual wet.. I have had it running but it was rough. And struddles to start with popping sounds. I did have it running sweet as a nut but it died when trying to pull off. Waiting on a guy to plug it up to computer to see if any codes are evident. The instruction in the workshop manual are what I used and they are very layman's terms just skirts over the directions. Followed to the best I understood them.

Yes, that's what I am hoping. Thanks. I definitely don't think it would run at all 180 degrees out. Just a nats out I think. But got a guy with a computer and some experience.

Thanks for that, checked it at least four times an really frustrating, it seems ok. Got to get a computer on it. Needs some info from the engine. Hope it comes up with a fault.

Rebuilt Engine after all 8 valves got bent. Used a locking off kit to position cam and bolt in bottom of the engine. Positioned first piston top dead centre. And locked off the bolt on the cam gear. Checked buy turning over by hand that valves were free and not catching. Anyway tried the engine, and it struddles to start, but fired up and ran but lumpy. Was a chattering sound from cam area, was under the impression it was a valve stuck.. engine ran for 20min and the chatter stopped like it was turned off. Engine ran and got hot water moving around. Engine ran sweet, was like new. Got in car to rev engine and dies. Wouldn't start again. Fuel leaking around High pressure pump. Changed that. Would the engine run, if at all like ****e if the timing was 180 degrees out. I know it's a long shot but I really am getting to the end of my tether with it. I know prob it needs plugging in to computer. But no Wallet lights on dash. Struddles to start. Plugs are all black and fueled up..