CrispyJ

Hi all, So I thought I'd give you an update on this topic. Essentially it went back in to the dealership, who recorded a video and sent it to Skoda for their opinion. Eventually I received a call, Skoda have advised that it needs a new steering rack, surprise, surprise. They've agreed to pay 70% of the cost, and the dealership is putting in the remaining 30%; a pretty good result, all things considered. I don't know if I believe that it is purely altruistic, but I suspect there was a warranty provided on the original repair so perhaps they had no choice, and battled it out between each other, who knows. However, the odd thing about this is that still, nobody can be sure about what has failed or is, failing. They appear to be operating on the basis of "what else can it be?". What happened to good old fashioned troubleshooting? Surely a better approach for everyone concerned is to take the car apart, look at things, test things, and don't stop until the problem is located? I, for one, would be happy to pay money for that service being a second hand car owner; I need people who can problem solve, quickly and effectively, not just guess! I don't mind paying for people's time, at all, but there has to be a bit of give and take. I believe a middle ground exists, where both the owner and the dealership share the cost of the fault diagnosis, treating each party as a stakeholder seems the only reasonable way to get better, more accurate and less time-consuming outcomes in these difficult scenarios. Maybe I'm crazy, but an interesting point of discussion, nonetheless. Final thought (calm down, Jerry); we drove it to South Wales for out summer holiday and i was reminded (despite all of the problems) what a great car it is, quiet and refined enough when you need it, fast and loud when the kids aren't puking in the back 🤣.

I was correct about the oil, or at least the garage also diagnosed it as a leak from the breather. Probably because they overfilled it when the did the oil service. With regards to the steering problem. It's been back in for them to record the sound as per direction from Skoda. Basically they're doing very little to actually diagnose/ troubleshoot the problem. They don't seem to understand that it needs to be taken apart, inspected, disassembled etc. They'll call me and say they know what it is, to which I'll respond, we've been here before and last time you took £1,500 off me and completely failed to fix anything. So why should I believe you now? They're are just guessing, which makes no sense. I have found a significant amount of youtube content created by Golf owners with the same noises. I can hear it best when my head is basically under the hood, dead centre and the lower I get the louder it gets, which tells me it's coming from somewhere underneath the turbo. IMO that signals that it is emanating from the rack itself. Something in the rack could be worn, a joint, the pinion gear etc. I doubt that it is the tie rods. I like the pinion gear theory, perhaps it's worn or damaged by side impact, pothole or some other incident. Can't wait for the price to replace the steering rack, shall we take bets?

So I thought I'd give an update on this issue. They were wrong, quite categorially. It wasn't the steering column joint and the TPI work did absolutely nothing to cure the problem. Both noises still exist. I took the car straight back and we're now in a holding pattern with Skoda. I have to take the car back for more investigations. I'm not hopeful. Regarding the oil leak, I've inspected both underside of the gearbox housing and the top. I see oil trail below the breather, and none above. My working theory is that it's been overfilled. As the oil heats up it's not only expelling the air to avoid pressure build-up but oil as well. If I'm correct, it took me about 30 seconds to find this, and I'm no mechanic. My faith in the dealership's ability to troubleshoot is reducing. I wasn't going to tell them what I think it is because I'm curious about what they come back with . . . .

They told me that the TPI had a video for reference. They said that the noise on the video was identical to the noise my car is making, with the steering wheel on full lock. I told them, if this doesn't cure it I'm gonna be looking for a refund. He said we'd cross that bridge if we come to it. He also said they've never done the repair before, either. In fact, until they checked their system they weren't even aware of this TPI bulletin. It sounds very similar if not identical to a CV joint to me, but in their health check video the tech said the driveshafts were absolutely fine/ solid. I'm still sceptical, but as it's something i literally cannot do, I'm in their hands unfortunately. It can't be that serious otherwise it would have been a recall. These sounds aren't actually new, the steering clunk has been happening for years. I thought it was the friction bearings in the struts, which is why I replaced the lot when I did the front shocks. But I remember test driving it and hearing the sound almost immediately, so it can't have been the bearings. Honestly, the click on full lock has also been there for a while, possibly from new. So I should have been more belligerent while it was under warranty, I guess. I did the top mounts when I replaced the shocks and I know exactly what you're talking about and I was sure to line them up correctly.

Thought I'd report back as Skoda have just called to explain what they think the problems are: 1) TPI - a technical bulletin from VAG, apparently. This is the 'clicking' on full lock. He explained that no parts were needed, but a process they have to basically dissemble the sub frame, undo some bolts which are part of the steering assembly and re-torque them in a special order. This apparently solves the problem, so they don't think it is a CV joint . . . . . . . £460 to cure that one! 2) Steering column cv/ U joint causing a clunking noise when turning the wheel. So they need to replace the column, apparently. . . . . . £1100 to do this. 3) unrelated to the above, but oil all over the gearbox housing. No diagnosis for this yet, but they're going to clean it up and put some special powder on it to try and establish where it is coming from! If any of you have any similar experiences, or faults would give me some assurance that their diagnosis is correct. I'm particularly sceptical about number 1!!! Cheers

I'm also finding this. I tend to research the brand before I buy the parts. Generally I find Autodoc/ buy car parts to be okay. You can filter the brands. I've never used their in-house 'Ridex' branded parts, though. The only part that I had to use Skoda for was the rear shocks. No one online could offer an OE or aftermarket. I imagine that Bilstein probably do a kit for the car, but it wouldn't 'factory' spec. Any thoughts on the video I posted? Could it be something other than an outer CV?

Thanks, that's useful. It is interesting to consider what the actual differences are between OE parts that Skoda sells and the so-called 'OE' you can buy online. I consider 'OE' to mean a different thing than 'aftermarket', which I've also thought means of a lower quality than OE brands. I can't imagine that companies like FAG or GKN Lobro essentially maintain several different production lines with the express purpose of manufacturing parts to different levels of quality, depending on how they are sold. Skoda have always claimed to me that their parts are simply better in quality than anything that is available online. This, I find a little hard to believe. You point about the markups is well made, and I'm sure this is what inflates the price. I'm certain that when Skoda quote me for work, they do not include the materials at the price they quote the consumer for supply only, because if they did their work would be extortionately expensive.

I did a bit of research and the consensus appears to be that GKN lobro manufacturer the best OE cv joints and they're available, online for £90 a piece. Where on earth Skoda get £330 from is a mystery. Skoda will drone on about OE quality and genuine Skoda parts, even though we all know they'll be using one of many OE suppliers, what is the difference between those parts and the OE branded parts online?

Update: Skoda just quoted me £330 inc VAT for supply only of front, outer CV joint (without grease). Crikey! Part number 3Q0498099E, returns searches at my usual places online from £40 for aftermarket, up to £90 for OE. What's with that price from Skoda?!?!?!?

Further info, a recording of the sound, which is most audible in the last few seconds of the video! My working theory is outer CV joint, unless this is the sound an inner joint fail also makes? Could it be something else? WhatsApp Video 2025-06-13 at 16.50.35_8f49918e.mp4

Thanks for your reply, interesting that you also noticed that the noise was higher up in the cabin. I suppose the next step, is to start taking things apart, garage can only look at it on 1st July, so perhaps i could get in before then and have a look myself. Cheers Chris

Hi All, A problem which has progressed rather quickly in the last few days concerning the steering system (I think). At low speed, right hand down almost to full lock I hear a creak/ clunk repetitively. If I move the steering wheel while on full lock, quickly right to left etc, the clicking/ clunking occurs both at very low speed and while practically stationary. If I depress the brake pedal on and off, quickly while also stationary, but in either reverse or drive and bump the car along a bit, this will also trigger the sound again while at full lock RHD. The sound also occurs if I slow right down in a straight line and move the steering while, ever so slightly to the left or right, a hear a click sound, typically once and then perhaps again, but not repetitively as it is when in the above conditions. It's very, very strange. I do not hear the sound at speed, i.e. anything above 10mph. I jacked it up today, inspected the ball joint, the outer tie rod, the CV boot, and generally had a poke around with my pry bar at everything behind the knuckle, inspected the roll bar bushes, etc. all of this seemed in good working order, no play and I couldn't see any damage to any boots, grease leaking etc. I used a jack underneath the knuckle to raise the suspension up with the steering on full lock to try to emulate the problem, but I couldn't hear it while it was in the air. I think I could hear the click when my wife was wiggling the steering wheel on full right lock while it was on the ground, however, and I was bent down at the wheel. But the sound, when in the driver's seat sounds like it is high up and coming from either the steering wheel itself or the top mount. I replaced the wheel bearings, top mount, friction bearing, suspension strut and spring a couple of months ago, so it is unlikely to be emanating from any of those components, unless one of them is faulty of course! The only other components left to consider would be the steering rack itself, the inner tie rod or the driveshaft (inner or outer cv). It's a very odd sound, and it's very difficult to figure out where it is coming from. I've booked the car into my local Skoda garage, explained that they'll need to take it out and test drive and what actions will trigger the sound. I fear an expensive diagnosis on the horizon! Has anyone had any similar issues? My father-in-law has a VRS estate that is almost identical to mine and he was told a few years ago that it need a completely new steering rack! But he's struggled to get to the bottom of it and understand why they thought it needed replacing. I've also plugged my car into my Launch diagnostics system and there are no fault codes in the ECU, suggesting a purely mechanical failure. Any thoughts on this mysterious sound, appreciated!

Thanks, to you both. I've learned a lot, especially not to play fast and loose with the part numbers 😆, and saved a few quid from buying dealer parts. It's so strange that the front suspension is widely available whereas the rear is definitely not! Perhaps some parts are not worth the investment because they're made in such small numbers for aftermarket brands. Once again, thanks for your all your effort!

Thanks, so much! Have you ordered from either of those companies before? I just haven't heard of them! Are they decent? It doesn't seem to indicate a manufacturer, so I assume they are original parts, as appose to aftermarket?

Well, tbh, £130/ shock from Skoda is outrageous for what are probably, bog standard sports shocks, albeit with some kind of 'unique' configuration, which makes them rare, perhaps, but certainly not complex or extravagant. When I replaced the rear wheel bearing/ hub assembly I noticed that there were spacers on the rear axle. I remember reading this in a review, years back that this particular model have an increase to its width at the rear, perhaps this explains the unusual shock? Either way, I'm reluctant to put anything on it, that isn't identical to the fit of the original. So, I might be condemned, on this occasion to paying Skoda parts prices! That is, unless Breezy Pete can find me an alternative!

Sent in PM.

Thank you so much, in that case, it looks like Skoda are indeed, the only supplier for the part. I might call ECP and see if they have anything? Although, I'm worried they might sell me something that isn't correct? They don't give you the part number, so it would be impossible to know unless it was printed on the shock itself!

So I just called Autodoc again, and they're saying that the part number has to match exactly. They were using the correct number, i.e. the number the Skoda just gave to me. There are lots of 5Q0 513 029 **, but none that end with NA. My question therefore: how important are the last two letters? What do they mean? Again, I find it difficult to believe there are no OE/ aftermarket options for the car! The part number is 5Q0 513 029 NA as confirmed by both the manufacturer (Skoda) and Autodoc.

Thanks, but the plot thickens. . . . . . . So I just called the dealership, who said what I had been told sounded incorrect. They quoted me £130/ shock - which is pretty steep, but to be expected. I gave him the part number off the original shock, which he said could be a 'casting' part number (i.e. used by the factory only?). Anyway, he gave me the part number of the replacement part 5Q0513029NA. Apart from the 'NA', that's the same part number that Autodoc just told me doesn't fit the car and therefore cancelled the order! What's going on here!

Hi, it's been a while! So, I've replaced the front shocks with Monroes (742117SP) part number 5Q0 413 031 FP. Not my first choice, but The Sachs struts were of the wrong specification (I discovered this at the worst possible moment when they were dangling about in the knuckle, 50mm as appose to 55mm! Doh). I had little time to be picky, and so headed to ECP to pick up a compatible part, the Monroes won the day, therefore! Anyway, I'm having much more fun trying to find a replacement OEM option for the rears! The part number on the original shocks is as follows 5Q0 512 011 QP and buycarparts.co.uk (Autodoc) inform me that they don't selling a single rear shock that is compatible with my car! 67 plate octavia vrs 245. Curiously, the original front shocks contain two labels and two different part numbers, which I don't understand. The first number 5Q0412037JQ returns nothing, anywhere! Whereas the other part number (above), returns lots of options. Before I knew any of this I ordered some Bilstein B4s for the rear, only to be told the won't fit! It seems very strange that there are numerous aftermarket/ OEM options for the front shocks, but not a single option for the rears?!?! I cannot believe the only compatible shocks for the rear are available exclusively via main dealerships! let's face it, these will probably be re-badged Sachs, KYB, etc. Surely Bilstein or Koni manufacture a performance option??? Has anyone had similar experiences? Can anyone provide an alternative supplier for the rear shocks. Thanks for your input in advance.

Update: Things seemed to move quickly, after my phone call this morning. Skoda have offered a 40% contribution to the seal repair, which also comes with a two warranty. So, if it leaks again - they replace the seals again, under warranty. Reduces the bill to £530 + a wheel alignment +£59. Still a hefty bill . . . . .

Thank you. I've asked for an alternative contact, when this guy hasn't been available. Obviously they shut me down. I need to find my way through the bureaucracy - this will help!

Update: Further cost obtained £2,100 inc VAT to replace the VAQ e diff completely, if the seal replacement doesn't cure it (970 inc VAT), total cost in excess of £3K worst case. I began a 'case' with Skoda customer service. The case officer has failed to contact me directly, but he did speak to me after I called, a week ago, he said he needed to speak with the dealership. Interestingly, he is never available when I call (apart from the one time mentioned above), but he has put notes on the case claiming to have called the dealership. However, the dealership haven't received any voicemails or messages or follow-up emails from this guy. I checked with the chap at the dealership, who I know very well - and is a decent guy and always returns my phone calls. The case officer also claimed, he'd tried to call me on several occasions, but my phone received no missed calls, no voicemails and he didn't follow up with an email. He's either lying, or isn't very pro-active (i.e. leave a voicemail or send an email), either way it's a fairly atrocious start.

Yes, thank, I'll probably do that - what do I have to lose! I hadn't considered the Consumer Rights Act. The technician and servicing dealer have stated, several times, they have never encountered this problem before. So, one could argue that it isn't wear and tear because if it were, you'd expect more examples of it on similarly aged vehicles. However, it is impossible to know how long the leak has been present and thus, impossible to prove it was a fault at purchase.

Yes, I agree with you. The problem is, the dealership have decided they want to attempt to replace seals, first. I probably ought to go back to them and have a discussion about the VAQ unit, specifically referring to the experience of that Golf owner. If I can find a way of demonstrating that it's broken (if that is indeed the problem) then arguing the case for wholesale replacement, instead would be more persuasive. I'm frustrated that they're just guessing, tbh. I would expect a technician to disassemble the front end, and actually diagnose the problem before proposing a fix. Sure, seals are certainly one explanation, but there are definitely more!