Thompa021

Thank you, thats very kind of you. Fuse 11 is fine. How much would you be after for the motor, should it work?

After having no working windows for at least a year or two, I decided to try & finally get to the bottom of it. The driver window went first, then months after the passenger one stopped too. I took both doors apart, driver side there was nothing obvious other than some cracked wires inbetween the door& chassis which i repaired but didnt make any difference. Passenger side as soon as i took the motor off the door, the switch would work going down, intermittent going back up. After some olaying about i managed to get the motor running constantly up& down as it should. Put the door back together & it stopped working. So took it apart again, unplugged the motor & plugged back in& it worked fine with no issues, rolling the window up and down. I then decided to try plugging in the driver side motor into the passenger side loom, the motor worked as it should in both directions. So both motors operate on the passenger side loom, but neither motor works on the driver side loom. I tested for continuity on every wire on the driver side loom and everything seemed fine, all had continuity. After leaving the passenger side motor for about an hour, it has again stopped working. I have also replaced the driver side switch pack (not genuine) and this did nothing either, however the central locking and illuminations on all the buttons work. When i test voltage in the passenger side loom while pressing the switch i get around 11 volts pressing down and 6 volts holding the button up, this was the same when i plugged the driver motor in the passenger side. When i tested voltage on the other side i got nothing when pressing the switch up or down. I have read a few different threads and it looks like its maybe pointing towards the motors, I just dont understand how both of them can be powered and work fine for a period of time on the passenger side, but not the driver side? Is there something else that im missing or anything else i can try before i go down the route of new motors?

Spot on thanks a lot mate i appreciate it

So do recon i could just leave it as is and forget about it? I dont particularly want to question the guy that did it for me as hes a good friend and been a mechanic for decades, so wouldnt want to insult his intelligence in any way.. and i dont currently have the time to do it myself which is why i got him to do it in the first place.

Cheers, Would it have any negative effect other than a high biting point? Excessive wear etc?

If it was actually the wrong way round how would it affect the car in general? Obviously the car runs fine at the moment etc Not a clue to be honest with you?

I recently had a new clutch kit fitted (organic clutch, DMF, pressure plate, slave cylinder), and noticed that the biting point is now a lot higher than it was when i had the standard clutch in. The biting point with standard clutch was almost at the very bottom of the pedal so required only a slight lift of the foot to engage it, however since having the work done it pretty much engages straight away as soon as the you push past the slack in the pedal. Is this correct or is something wrong? As i was under the assumption that new clutches have a lower engagement & worn ones have a higher engagement? ive only done around 80 miles in it so far

Oh right im with you. How do i rectify that? On a side note, Ive just looked on another forum & someone was explaining the exact symptoms as I have, however they stated that the code throwing up for them was P0087 which is to do with low fuel pressure. Since i replaced the cyclinder head i did notice a small leak from tandem pump& also fuel pump appears to be quieter than before. Is it possible that the issue lies there and not with cam/crank sensors?

No, manual 6 speed, 05 fabia

Hi put a post up a little while ago about having trouble starting my vrs. Glow plug light flashing and fault code P0727 showing on obd reader. I ended up losing all acceleration one evening on the way home from work twice, both time i turned off the car & turned it back on and it was fine afterwards. So I took it to a garage a couple weeks ago& they told me to try changing both the cam & crank sensors. So i finally got round to changing them both on sunday. Once changed the car started perfectly first time without delay& no fault codes or glow plug light. Monday morning was exactly the same however monday night it once again took a few cranks to start. fast forward to this morning, hard to start again, then while driving to work i lost acceleration once again, so pulled over & turned it off, turned it back on & started first try& was fine after that. Got to work and shut it off then just tried starting it again to see if it would struggle again, it started first time again but the glow plug light started flashing once it fired up& brought up the code p0727 again. I am at a loss now as to what it could be. Google states ‘The P0727 Codes is triggered when the Transmission Control Module (TCM) receives no signal from the Engine Control Module (ECM)‘. are there any other sensors that are linked to this that could potentially be causing this issue?

Finally got round to testing the glow plugs. All of them read 1.9 ohms. Im assuming this is round about about what they should be if they’re all the same? glow plug light came on & was flashing yesterday before i left work. Cleared the fault codes with an obd, glow plug light went off and when i turned the key it started on the first crank. The fault code that came up i believe was p0727. after i filled the car up tonight i went to start and again it started on the first crank, and has just done it again now when starting the car to check if the fault code is still there or not, which it isnt. Could this just be a case of not clipping the loom onto one of the plugs properly by mistake? The car is still warm at the minute so will see how well it starts in the morning.

Come to think of it, the glow plug light on the dash did come on twice soon after the gasket change, but just went off again. I just thought nothing of it as the car seemed to be running fine. may be a silly question but how do you install glow plugs incorrectly? will i have caused any damage because of this if it is due to the glow plugs?

I wouldn’t be able to say what it smells like as ive never been round the back of the car when starting it, but yes, whenever i catch the smoke in the wing mirror/rear view it looks like white smoke. Only as soon as its started and ive revved it once or twice, then it stops as far as im aware I wouldn’t be able to say what it smells like as ive never been round the back of the car when starting it, but yes, whenever i catch the smoke in the wing mirror/rear view it looks like white smoke. Only as soon as its started and ive revved it once or twice, then it stops as far as im aware

Hi Ive put about 3k miles on the clock since i replaced my head gasket and for the most part all has been well since then. The car would start with no issues with 1-2 cranks. However the last couple of months its been really struggling. Every time i try to start it, hot or cold, It turns over probably 6-10 times before it eventually starts. Ive seen some people say it could be the battery going, but there seems to be plenty of juice there when its trying to turn over, i.e. its fast & not slow when turning over. Although today and yesterday the tone of it did sound slower than usual. I think occasionally i do see a bit of smoke out the back when it starts& then after that theres nothing, not sure if thats related at all or just normal?