Derecho

They are responsible for road maintenance in this part of Scotland. BEAR

Update :garage advised the wheel bearing was badly damaged, and wheel was almost hanging off. The mechanic was surprised that despite the damage, the bearing was not making the typical broken bearing noise when rotating the wheel. There was no damage to brakes, or suspension. He quoted £180 for the fix, which I will try to recoup from BEAR Scotland. I guess I am keeping the car for a few more months.

Yep, I got the xenons. They are great...the monetary value of car suddenly doubled 😁. If nothing else, it will help me to dodge any chancers if/when I try to get rid of the car. is there anything else of value I should consider?

Great tips, thanks. I doubt I will get much money for it, except for spares. There are several things wrong. : Egr valve broken again, rust on boot and body, and now this. Most valuable are probably the alloys with winter tyres and half a fuel tank 🤣....and the cd player 🤣 Maud is a little too far from Aberdeen, even if car is fixed in Dundee. But I appreciate the reference. Garage seems decent: Maitland auto centre garage. Are you familiar with it?

Definitely not screeching. So I jacked up car this morning l, both front wheels to check. Almost instantly I noticed 1-2cm play on driver side front wheel, along top-bottom line. Driving with that damage would not be safe ,so I dropped it off a local garage in Dundee. lets see what they say. If news is bad, I will send it to scrapyard.

Hey all, Christmas holiday are coming to an end, and on the way home from a very long drive (800 miles!) I noticed intermittent grinding noise on one of the wheels, but I can't tell which wheel as I am driving alone and noise seems to come from all over the place. Hoping to find some clues here, since I am unable to find a garage to inspect due to public holidays in Scotland. Still have 100 miles to drive tomorrow. What noise? Grinding, (not metallic )worse when turning steering wheel left, less the opposite direction. Noise increases with speed, but then after a few miles on motorway grinding disappears altogether, and remains gone. After a stop, the noise returns. It sounds like scraping brake pads on disc, after parking car for a few days, or the sound of scraping your throat continuously. Things checked? Fuel consumption: it does not change for worse. Discs are not heating up excessively, (though rear left is but warmer than rest), no vibration when braking, steering not pulling/drifting to left or right. Dashboard does not alert me of worn pads. For awhile I thought the issue were worn brake/stuck caliper, but last time it happened, fuel consumption was terrible. Preliminary conclusion: likely not the breaks, or is my conclusion wrong? How about bearings? Last time I had damaged bearings, the wheels were humming/howling. This time it's not. But the sound getting worse with turning may indicate a bad bearing. Right? What puzzles me, is that the sound disappears again. Before stopping for the night, I hit a pothole badly at 60mph near Perth... because Scotland does not repair motorway potholes ..arghh. Noise returned instantly, and I got a check tyre indicator on dashboard after a few miles. Upon inspection tyres were fine, and I reset the dashboard light and continued driving. The warning light did not return for 10 miles until temporary accommodation. My suspicion is that the bearing was slowly dying, and then got a hit, but the noise stopping after a while makes me wonder if something else is playing.oooh, and the YouTube videos about broken bearings have a different sounds than mine. I am hoping to find a mechanic in the morning but I am not positive. Any suggestions/clues in meantime? Cheerio

Thanks...learned another thing today. So is it the DPF that then captures the NOx and burn it off later or has the DPF another function? And what does exhaust do, chemically?

It did not work, though the engine does run smoother nonetheless. Emissions test on Mot was ok, even with engine light on. However, Mot failed for engine light. It tells you how useful an egr is for emissions 😉. Either, I have decided to not fix egr, and just get different car next year. Too many things start failing on the car.

Indeed, no harm trying... I have tried clearing the code today, it just comes back after 1 cycle..I will clear the fault at garage before handing over the keys, but if they restart engine not once but twice, the car is doomed to fail MOT. I assume the MOT will fail on Monday, so that gives me a wild card to attempt anything trying to fix it temporarily until then...Some of the wild ideas are: EGR cleaner spray, replace airflow sensor, blow compressed air through airflow sensor tubing, hoping it will clear out soot. I have a sliver off hope the EGR airflow sensor is actually broken...it would not be the first electrical fault on the car..The list is endless: Dashboard back lights, airbag sensor wiring in the door loom (last week), indicator in mirror (last week), columbus (2y ago), AC air quality sensor, EGR airflow sensors (after fixing previous EGR). Considering all previous electrical issues, it's really odd coincidence that after disconnecting and reconnecting the battery last week, that the EGR fails. TBC for sure.

hi all, I two days I have my MOT test, and unfortunately yesterday the engine light came one. After connecting the CARISTA reader, it became clear the issue is with the EGR valve..Again 😞 Two year ago the EGR valve was replaced, meanwhile I have done about 15k miles only , mostly long distance drives, but also some city drives (15mins usually). Engine has 165k miles on the clock, 2.0 CR TDI 170, Superb 2010. Either way, the car does not have any loss of power, just like previous time. So I thought of using EGR cleaner through air intake, hoping it will help to clean the engine/EGR enough before the test...The fault can come back the day after, I don't care.... Has anyone here try the cleaner before? Does it help to pass an MOT? Thanks.

Great video, many thanks!

So I managed to get access to the door this evening via the above link, rather quickly. Thanks...., Fixing the wire with a splice was a struggle, so I have decided to rewire from the sensor to the door loom connector, and solder the wire properly....It might take me a few hours fiddling in a freezing cold garage, but will hopefully save me from spending hundreds at the garage.....12 days till MOT...Fingers crossed.

So when I tried on Sunday, I could not get one of protective covers in door loom off. I will try again upcoming Sunday, hopefully with more results...otherwise it will be a proper dismantling job...it is a bit overkill for 1 damaged wire :-(, but glad it took 165k miles before it happened.

Thanks, that sounds complicated, especially the inner panel bit. Are these special rivets I should use, or will the ones from Screwfix do the job?

hi all, My 2010 Superb estate is due for an MOT in two weeks, and unfortunately the (brown) airbag crash sensor wire in the driver door loom is damaged, giving me an error on the dash board. The damage is in a rather awkward location (10cm away from connector) , and I am struggle to access it, let alone strip and fix it. Calling on the experts here for some advice. Can I pull the collection of cables out of the door by a few cm? Or is there an option to remove the rubber casing easily? Or any other trick? Thanks,

The glow plug thing is not something I have seen on my dashboard (yet, touch wood).. Unfortunately I do not have the space/knowledge to replace the EGR myself, only easy accessible things... So I went back to the garage today, and they will take a read-out of the ECU next week.... Luckily when the EGR failed last summer, I had taken some pictures of the ODB-reader for EGR-percentage..At that time, the EGR rate was sitting at 45% in idle for a warm engine, while this time it is sitting only at 24 % in similar conditions. Does anyone know what normal percentages are for this engine type Superb Elegance MK2 CR TDI 2.0 170 (2010) ?

Thanks for sharing the thread, I hadn't see that post yet.. tbc

hey all, About a year ago I had the EGR valve replaced on my 2010 2.0 CR TDI 170 Superb for a costly £1000 with an indy around the corner. After about 4 months, the engine warning light came on for the first time, indicating the EGR valve was stuck open again. I wasn't really chuffed, to say the least. I normally fuel up at the local supermarket petrol station, but for once I used premium diesel..About half way through the tank, the warning light came on, without going into limp mode though. After clearing it with the ODB-reader, it remained away for a few months, only to return the next time I do a 100 mile ride a few months later..The light comes and goes . I suspect the engine, which has done about 145k miles, is quite worn or has quite some soot deposits inside, with every time I use premium fuel or a fuel additive , some of these deposits shift into the EGR and cause it to be stuck open, followed by a DPF regen one of the days after. For now clearing the code seems to "solve" the warning light issue, but this is not a long term solution. I suspect that eventually the EGR will give way for good, which at this rate will be a yearly cost of £1000 to replace it. What are my affordable options to have this issue resolved for good? Is mapping out the EGR a solution, and how will it affect the DPF? Are there any engine treatment services, or is there a a risk of clogging up the EGR and DPF and all pipes with that service?

Since the last 3 days the Columbus unit on my Superb MK2 Elegance 2010 is possessed. After a few minutes driving the screen and lights for volume and small buttons on the Columbus unit switch off by themselves, and return to active within a fraction of a second. When this happens, the music (from any source) stops, the screen goes blank and any information from AC/heating also disappears. It is as if the entire unit looses power. Within a fraction of the second the unit then switches on again, and music resumes (no welcome screen from system starting)..After about 5-10 secs the whole lot goes offline again. When the unit is switched off and only the clock is displayed, the screen + lights continue to flicker... The effect is the same as in this video (not my car)..Unfortunately the poster of that video did not find a repair, but replaced the whole unit.: The unit was flashed with firm 6272 about 9 months ago, without any problems in the last 10k miles, apart from a USB crash once a month. What have I done so far: 1) being puzzled 2) replaced fuses for Radio (15 amp) and amplifier (30 amp). No effect, apart from dashboard clock and distance reset (...more puzzled) 3) switched off/on engine instantaneously. No effect 4) switched off/on engine after few hours. Unit works again for a few minutes, then the possession returns. 5) removed unit from front dash to check cables visually. Nothing found. I am trying to find out what the problem is, or could be, and if the problem is repairable,...My gut feeling says there is a capacitor on the Columbus PCB on the way out but secretly I am hoping it is loose wire somewhere..Is this a known problem with the mk2 Superb/Octi Cheerio, Derecho?