Swede90

I have a 2016 MK3 estate SE-L Executive 190 DSG just about to turn 179k. I've had it 4 years now bought at 134k. Apart from the ad-blue pipe and injector replaced due to a leak at the joint, and the flywheel wobbling. I've had no major problems. At work I'm in the process over refitting a 2011 MK2 manual Elegance 4x4 estate. That's on just over 166k. Because we're changing the primary use of the vehicle, cam belt, g/box flush, prop shaft bearing and diff flushes have been done. I've had to repair the wiring loom to the tailgate and drivers front door, plus repair the rear washer hose. All wear and tear items so I'm not too worried about it. We have a number of 2015 Seat Toledo 1.6Tdi's left on fleet with over 210k without any major work being done. Only one out of the 6 left has had a new engine. As long as it's been looked after, a high mileage vehicle shouldn't be a worry. As long as you don't pay over the odds, which is hard in the present climate.

I wouldn’t advise anyone else to do the same repair. Mines got now over 160k on it. If it survives to 200k I’d be impressed. Although I do have 1.6Tdi Toledo’s with over 200k on them. No major work required till the blocks went on a couple around 190k. It’ll do until it can fathom how to trace the feed pipe and the wiring connectors down the chassis rail.

I’ve changed the Ab-blue injector. Found no mention anywhere on how to change the pipe unless through Skoda. The injector didn’t make much difference as it didn’t stop the venting from the Ad-blue feed pipe. Got around 40 miles before loss of pressure in the Ad-blue system. So I cheated. Pushed the pipe onto the injector as far as it would still. Secured the pipe with just enough pressure to reduce or stop movement from vibration. Sealed the single use clip (which is only supplied with the pipe) with silicone sealant let it cure then did a 150mile run. It’s vented a bit while it sealed. So there has been some more residue over the area, but I’ve done around 1500 mile since and so far it’s worked. when I get chance I’m going to get it on the ramps at work and see how much it’s crystallised over the underneath. Clean it off then we’ll see how it performs at MOT time in May. It’s cost about £470 for the parts at trade price. I’d hate to think how much it’ll cost at specialist or stealer.

Does anyone have an idea on the easiest way to change the motor? I can see the motor both from the passenger footwell and by removing the climatronic controls. Is there a way of removing the DSG surround as it feels stuck at the front so I can remove the cubby hole in front to gain better access.

I’ve been quoted £261.32 plus vat for the injector and £137.34 plus vat for the pipe. From TPS. I’ve been advised to remove the tank and clean out with the pump and injector then replace the pipe.

I’ve found the ad-blue fault this morning. Codes: P20E800 - Reductant pressure too low. P204F00 - Reductant system performance bank 1. Opened the bonnet to test the battery (just in case). Found above the Cat white foam like substance. Looks to be ad blue solidified. Cleared it off. The top of the ad-blue injector (plastic part) can move a couple of degrees. The feed pipe feels quite loose with a strange clip. I gather this isn’t normal. Question is: which side would be the fault. The pipe or the injector? The spread of the ad-blue looks to have come from the end of the pipe. So a possible seal breach. Does the system need resetting after the connection is breached. I can get the parts and should be able to fit myself, unless it needs dealer reset. Any ideas?

After 2 and a half years of pretty much no hassle driving with the Superb. It’s time for the gremlins to come out and play. July 21: Someone rear ends me while it’s parked outside the house then drives off without leaving details. Since then minor vibration from flywheel. Sept 21: Random TCS, ECS, Hill Start, Radar warning, Stop/Start fault, Parking sensors fault. Turn car off then on, then off again. Wait 5 mins. Set of driving and within 400yds all cleared. Found out battery was on the way out. Nov 21: Diagnosed as vibrating flywheel by Grimsby Skoda while in for DSG service. Told wait till it gets worse or not to bother at all because it’s not worth it at 156k. Jan 22: Rear heating stays cold. No adjustments on system. Faulty Flap motor, due in a couple of days. Jan 22: Car starts calling random people without phone being touched or screen. 4 times family, 3 times work. (I do have some emergency A&E Red phone numbers in the phone, so I’m hoping it won’t start ringing them😱). Jan 22: Radio randomly decides to change station, not just to the next one but 7 along on the DAB menu. Tonight EML and 650 miles till non start. 5 times that’s flashed up on a 60 mile round journey. The reader goes between 3000 till empty when the light is off, then back to 650. I’ve put in a gallon of ad-blue tonight. Warning comes on, few miles later goes off then 15 miles later back on. The car is going on Launch in the morning to see what errors I’m getting. I’m hoping it doesn’t end up as a huge bill. At the minute it’s worth more on trade in than what I owe as I have about 18mths left, but that makes it someone’s else’s problem. Apart from the mechanical faults, has anyone else had similar happen to them?

By the looks of it, the problem is the blend door motor. The car was throwing: B108E71: Servo motor for rear temp flap, actuator jammed. B108E54: Servo motor for rear temp flap, no basic setting. I’ve done a code reset plus actuator setting reset, while either holding finger around the actuator arm. Or manually adjusting vent modes and temp while looking at the arm. Nothing moves. Downside is that the motor is sat about 3 inches inboard of the passenger console edge. Looks like it’s a bottom of the dash off just to gain access. Unless there is another easier way?

All the menu system works as it should. All the way from Low to Hi. I’ve even locked off the rear, unsync’d the zones and individually altered. On the Saab system it would diagnose and give you a fault code to help. Wasn’t aware the Skoda system could do similar.

I’ve got no heat on the floor vents either. I’m thinking as it tri-zone there must be a temp sensor in the ducting somewhere along the centre console to tell the system to heat or chill. I’ve not had chance to speak to my local TPS team to get diagrams or options of parts.

Hi all, I’ve developed a slight issue over the last couple of days. I’ve seem to have lost heat through the rear centre console vents and the vent in the arm rest. It was fine till about half 6 the other morning. Heat then going down a hill and then cold. I’m thinking it may be a blend door issue on the passenger side. Passenger heating works as does drivers. I’ve had similar with the old 9-5’s but when the rear went so did the passenger side as it’s linked. Is it the same for the Superb? Never had the issue on all the other VAG stuff we have at work,

I’ve got the same on mine, same engine. I’ve had it since the car was hit in July last year. It went in for a DSG service at Skoda in Grimsby. Tech there said if it gets worse do it, but it’s not worth it due to mileage (156k). I’ve spoken to an auto box specialist regarding a T5 DSG we were having sorted. They reckon about £800 all in and that the clutch is internal to the box on a 6spd unit.

The dealership price doesn’t bother me. As long as the ABS sensor doesn’t need coding into the car then I’ll just get the part from TPS. I’m putting it up on the ramps at work this week to change the rear pads. Both rear TPMS warning take turns to shout ever 6 weeks or so. It’ll go into the local Skoda when it reaches 154k. Give it to the dealer every 20k service, do it myself at the 10k or annual and only use genuine service kits. It’s cheap enough through work discount.

I’m aware that they have a smart system for the alternator but I can’t see how that would save that much fuel and cause this random fault. I’ll put it on Launch and the Solus Edge units I have at work to be on the safe side tomorrow. The drivers window did take a couple of touches to raise earlier but it’s been a bit sticky since I bought it.

Evening all, I’ve just had my first hiccup on the car in just shy of 2yrs. I had just pulled into a car park to meet our lass after work. While doing less than 20mph ESC light, Park Assist unavailable with flashing button, Forward alert unavailable, Hill assist unavailable and Tyre pressure light came on dash. Parked up and turned the car off fully opened and closed the drivers door. Then restarted the car. All lights back came back on. When I checked the Vehicle status it also came up with Stop/Start error. I turned off and restarted again, lights back on. I kept the status screen on and drove out the car park. Clear space and accelerated upto about 30 and slowly the lights turned off one by one. Now the car only came back from the repair centre on Tuesday after some buffoon drove into the back of the car while parked outside and then drove off. Virtual pedal, elec tailgate and parking sensors all worked after the damage. Only damaged caused was bumper skin, valance panels up underneath and repair to tailgate. I’ve checked the battery terminals, both secure. It’s the first time it’s happened. The car had been behaving sluggish over the last couple of days according to the other half. Rear pads are due for changing next week and it’s only 3k off it’s next dealer service at 154k. I’ll keep an eye on it over the weekend to see if it reoccurs. Any ideas? Battery was changed in Feb by RAC cover and programmed into the car by them.