KDM

Trim level is not high. It has single CD drive with the B&W LCD and manual window winders in the back. Just to update you: if I put the key in the lock, and mechanically unlock it, it actually unlocks all the doors!

I thought it was worth asking anyway as I was reminded that on some cars, you can program wether you want the remote to open all doors or just the one.

Yup. I'm familiar with vehicle electric butchery and aware that there is no possibility of a straight answer. I'm just searching for things to search for, if you see what I mean! The key which I believe is the "new" key serves only one purpose: to mechanically unlock the driver's door. The other key, which I believe to be the original, works the ignition, fuel filler cap, and passenger door. None of the keys has any unlocking electronics. I don't know if the remote fobs were discarded, or if this model isn't supposed to have remote locking. Mechanically unlocking the driver's door unlocks all the doors. No such luck!

Hi. Before I bought my 51 reg Octavia, I'd guess someone has tried to break into it, but for whatever reason, the driver's door has a different key to the rest of the car and there's an aftermarket door locking remote. The most annoying feature is that the door remote only unlocks the driver's door. So, I need to climb into the car and push the button to allow everyone else into the car. I don't know where the remote receiver has been installed, but my best guess is that it connected to the driver's side door servo only. Is anyone familiar with this type of job? Do you suppose there's something I can do to make the remote unlock all the doors? Would going back to a factory key remote be expensive? Thanks.

I looked at that one. I was sceptical as mine doesn't have the metal back. I took a punt on a £30 one. We'll see on Tuesday!

Yeah, they have completely different part numbers. This is the estate. Irritatingly, the one I want is on eBay, but eBay garage says it's not compatible. I think it's mistaken. I might take a punt.

There must be about 10 different parts which claim to be compatible and a few which look identical, but which claim not to be compatible. Do you know how the parts numbers work? Many of them seem very similar. Mine is 1Z9 955 711 B ZA3. The 1Z9 and teh ZA3 are often different. (Maybe they aren't part of the part number?) and sometimes the B is a C. Do I need part with an absolutely identical number?

Dammit, so just the same as Internet of Things devices. Message broadcast. Maybe it gets acted on, maybe it doesn't... OKay. Splash the £40 then. Thanks.

That makes 100% sense. I mentioned the 57 wires and the hankering for the "olden days". I'd have thought, at that rate, the OBD should have flashed up a problem... I'll give it a bit of a jiggle and see what happens. £40-£80 is quite a bit for something which might not fix my problem! AND with my luck, I'll order the wrong thing. Haha. Your signature. I'm "Normandie, sometimes Worcestershire."

Hi. My 2011 Octavia rear wiper was intermittent for a while then stopped working. All the fuses are fine. Before I go and spend anything from £40 to £80 on a new motor, I'd like to convince myself the problem's not elsewhere. I'm handy enough with a multimeter, but I can't find a pinout for the motor, so I don't know which of the 45 (!) wires to probe (or inject 12V to test). Also, with the motor disconnected, I don't know if I should see anything on the harness. In the "olden days" (20 years ago) the wiper motor had a rotary switch built in so it recognised the end of travel, so I don't know if it's stuck partway and "thinks" it's on... Any ideas where I can find a pinout, or how to debug, please? Thanks.